Hardware PSP 2000 batteries genuine or not?

hama364

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I own 3 PSPs and all 3 had official batteries made in Japan (PSP 2000 x2 and PSP 3000 x1), all 3 US models. If I remember right all US ones (and maybe EU as well) has Japanese batteries.

Based on appearance, I tend to believe that the 4 batteries I own and which I posted the pictures of are genuine batteries. 3 are "Made in China", one is "Made in Japan". I guess it is possible that many Japanese electronics are manufactured in China. And anyways the label of a non genuine battery can show "made in Japan"...
 

Obsidian_Crow

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however the official PSP battery was made in China and not in Japan... <_< unless there is a factory in Japan that still makes PSP batteries after sony retired them

The first psp was made in Japan.. so any accessories that come with the console first is made by Japan's Sony main branch and not the other branches.. regarding the batteries, china has more man power to spare so production is left to them instead, reason most accessories now comes from the said country.. and with some being pirated upon distribution.
 
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Mickstar

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They have to be made in japan for one and if you open it and it has no EP04 on the motherboard it is immediately fake.
 
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zfreeman

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Whether it is genuine or not, I think it's safe to say battery life will be about the same at this point. Just replace the battery cell with a 603450 replacement.
 

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Hi all,

I bought a number of second hand PSP 2000, some of them with batteries. I wonder if those are genuine original Sony make batteries or some China knock-offs.

Can someone tell me the answer and also what to look for to spot the fake/ after market China batteries?

Thanks and Cheers!

View attachment 83108 View attachment 83109
Hi all,

I bought a number of second hand PSP 2000, some of them with batteries. I wonder if those are genuine original Sony make batteries or some China knock-offs.

Can someone tell me the answer and also what to look for to spot the fake/ after market China batteries?

Thanks and Cheers!

View attachment 83108 View attachment 83109

Hi all,

I bought a number of second hand PSP 2000, some of them with batteries. I wonder if those are genuine original Sony make batteries or some China knock-offs.

Can someone tell me the answer and also what to look for to spot the fake/ after market China batteries?

Thanks and Cheers!

View attachment 83108 View attachment 83109
So hey, I literally just made an account to follow up on this for you. I just had a suspected counterfeit die on me after only a half year of use and well under 300 charge cycles. Just flat out died.

I'm very familiar with PSP systems and their components- and I can say for sure the only one in that group I know FOR SURE is a legitimate Sony battery is the one second from the left in the first pic. (The pic showing the labels)

I'm pretty upset about it actually, but hey 🤷‍♂️ what can ya do...

In the picture I uploaded the middle battery is 100% Official. Note the blue circle "recycle" symbol and the font/graphic. The far left battery is the sneaky counterfeit- and the right side is an obvious 3rd party battery. Be careful people!

The only way you can tell is with a keen eye... I reported the seller because they really laid down the "these are Official unused batteries yada yada" shtick in their description. Burned me... it just flat died on me tonight while I was playing Doom. Heck, the obvious 3rd party battery hasn't even died like this on me- but they don't allow a proper sleep mode before the battery fully dies. Still- at least it works!!!

Also, hey everyone... I've used the site for a longggg time but I never made an account. 👋
 

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hama364

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So hey, I literally just made an account to follow up on this for you. I just had a suspected counterfeit die on me after only a half year of use and well under 300 charge cycles. Just flat out died.

I'm very familiar with PSP systems and their components- and I can say for sure the only one in that group I know FOR SURE is a legitimate Sony battery is the one second from the left in the first pic. (The pic showing the labels)

I'm pretty upset about it actually, but hey 🤷‍♂️ what can ya do...

In the picture I uploaded the middle battery is 100% Official. Note the blue circle "recycle" symbol and the font/graphic. The far left battery is the sneaky counterfeit- and the right side is an obvious 3rd party battery. Be careful people!

The only way you can tell is with a keen eye... I reported the seller because they really laid down the "these are Official unused batteries yada yada" shtick in their description. Burned me... it just flat died on me tonight while I was playing Doom. Heck, the obvious 3rd party battery hasn't even died like this on me- but they don't allow a proper sleep mode before the battery fully dies. Still- at least it works!!!

Also, hey everyone... I've used the site for a longggg time but I never made an account. 👋
interesting.....! your one on the left is, to me, obviously also fake as the SONY name is completely off....
the other (not the label) side is also quite different the "better" fake has much thicker font, noticeable different to the original battery
 
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hama364

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interesting.....! your one on the left is, to me, obviously also fake as the SONY name is completely off....
the other (not the label) side is also quite different the "better" fake has much thicker font, noticeable different to the original battery
 
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SacredMilkOG

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interesting.....! your one on the left is, to me, obviously also fake as the SONY name is completely off....
Yeahp. I decided to give them a go anyway, there are a bunch of detail issues on it- crooked and smudged text- crooked +/- markings... all black and gray sticker. But I gave them a try despite how I felt. The listing didn't show the labels. From now on unless I buy an obvious 3rd party battery like the GH one there- I will be checking listings for pictures of labels. I'm also going to report any that get sold to me like that. Glad I didn't send one of these off in any of the custom systems I sold. _-_

Edit: I know I was a few years late to this but- I guess no better time to help aid against counterfeits. They ruin the fun..

I just saw a cool post about ARK CFW on PSP here, definitely gonna hang around soon and check some things out. 👍 Kind of glad this sparked me to make an account. (You all can find me over on Reddit with the same username as well.)
 
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Jayro

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I typically just save the data boards, throw away the battery, and add in a new LiPo cell. The best ones are the flat kind that you can put in-place of the UMD drive, since just about everyone uses CFW on theirs to load games from the MemoryStick.
 

SacredMilkOG

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I typically just save the data boards, throw away the battery, and add in a new LiPo cell. The best ones are the flat kind that you can put in-place of the UMD drive, since just about everyone uses CFW on theirs to load games from the MemoryStick.
Hey, do you have experience with soldering a swapped cell or resoldering one that you can outline? Or maybe a post somewhere I can check out on it?

I have an official battery that somehow got severed- and it hadn't even been opened before it was severed. But the 2 connections completing it are some weird flat composite metal that doesn't seem to solder back together correctly. It'd be nice to fix that and have another official battery on hand. 😁 Pls and thx 👍
 

Jayro

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Hey, do you have experience with soldering a swapped cell or resoldering one that you can outline? Or maybe a post somewhere I can check out on it?

I have an official battery that somehow got severed- and it hadn't even been opened before it was severed. But the 2 connections completing it are some weird flat composite metal that doesn't seem to solder back together correctly. It'd be nice to fix that and have another official battery on hand. 😁 Pls and thx 👍
Can you show pics of what you're talking about?
 

SacredMilkOG

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I could have... but I got sick of it not working so I literally ripped out the old cell and threw it away- since the leads material was impossible to solder to without cutting the actual cell open. In an official s110 for a 2k/3k PSP there are flat leads coming out of the cell- then those are attatched to regular flat metal strips then further soldered to the board in the battery. The leads that protrude from the actual cell are like some kind of plastic infused shit and solder wouldn't adhere to them at all- otherwise it would have been an easy fix... and that material had a break in it so I needed to solder there and not elsewhere.

So, basically because of that I had to throw out an otherwise perfectly good 1200mah cell wasn't happy. And I'm not happy with the ones I tried to replace it with either. I swapped the metal strips for direct wires and the result is an orange charge light for a few minutes before it just blinks orange.

(Finding info about what a blinking orange power led lead me nowhere either. You'd be surprised how many legitimately dumb answers I read about that... didn't realize this was actually rocket science. There were people answering that apparently can't tell the difference between the word power and a pro duo logo for the mms reader led.)

Next time I have to open an official battery I'll show you. (Which besides this one has been never tbh. Ever) Edit: Also- I'm not dense. I promise what I'm describing isn't the prongs on the exterior of the battery. It was cut open- in the meantime I can show you the cell I swapped in if you want. It's from a replacement battery for a Motorola Razr V3. Not working though. Kind of upsetting.

P.S. - This sites mobile format sucks horribly. Repeat- HORRIBLY. Wtf. It's screwing with both my typing and edit saves.

Here- it's a screenshot of seemingly the only YT video in existence showing an opened OFFICIAL S110 battery. I marked the problem material with a green/blue dot. If you're looking at metal marked with a red dot then you're looking at the wrong section. The material in question was super flexible too- like soft + bad aluminum foil.
 

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zfreeman

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SacredMilkOG

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They are not composite metal. The tabs are aluminum (maybe some nickel) and act like a heatsink, along with a high melting point of the underneath solder. Add new solder to the old solder to coax the tabs off.

Solder red/live to 'LD1' and black/ground to 'LD2'. Pictured is an example with the tabs still connected.

https://libredd.it/r/PSP/comments/iksfse/keeping_psp_batteries_alive_part_1_1200mah/
View attachment 290605
Yeah I got it, I guess I just struck out a couple of times with the cells I tried to use as the replacement. I'll give it another try when I come across another fitting cell to use. Thanks for replying 👍

Oh and hey- I removed the board from my Razr battery's cell before soldering it to my PSP battery board- is there any reason I should have kept the board on it and soldered from the prongs instead of directly to the cell leads? I figured two boards in succession would have been problematic. I see in that example pic that the board to that 1S was left on.

This site is still screwing with my damn keystrokes.... I really don't like that at all. 🤬

Note to GBAtemp mods- the ads are seemingly infected or something...

Edit: I just logged in on a PC now- because I literally couldn't even type out what was going wrong on the mobile version. It was seriously beginning to piss me off and I have never experienced this on any other site to-date. The browser page even reflagged as insecure in the middle of me typing. Just figured I should mention it because it seems like a security flaw and I am suspicious my keystrokes were being attemptedly hijacked.
 
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zfreeman

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I removed the board from my Razr battery's cell before soldering it to my PSP battery board- is there any reason I should have kept the board on it and soldered from the prongs instead of directly to the cell leads? I figured two boards in succession would have been problematic. I see in that example pic that the board to that 1S was left on.
Typically, the PCB on a LiPo cell is used for protecting it, such as preventing overcharging. The PSP's battery PCB should be doing the same thing, so you should be fine.
 

SacredMilkOG

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Typically, the PCB on a LiPo cell is used for protecting it, such as preventing overcharging. The PSP's battery PCB should be doing the same thing, so you should be fine.
Yeah I figured. I was actually wondering more if having 2 boards would mess with the sleep mode when the battery runs dry. I know most 3rd party batteries do this and you lose your progress if you aren't paying attention :/ it's happened a few times to me. No fun
 
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