hi guys, i made a mistake scraping the clk point on an oled, and it continuously touches the ground around it, is there any way to fix it or is the board missing?
It's funny that you mention that since the reason I killed the previous two V2 switches was because of my RST point since that was the only variable between V1 patched and V2 MARIKO since MARIKO has a transistor next to the point and I believe the heat killed it somehow.
I changed my installation layout to mostly use the eMMc points and I've seen incredible reliability using those, but this latest one just farted for no apparent reason.
I wished I had trouble installing it so that way I could just blame myself for a crappy installation but I made sure it was donde properly. Double/triple checked everything under the microscope during/after I was working but the BSOD was like a slap to the face :s
I just want to know how to avoid it as I'm having to replace every single board I kill and I'm running out of replacements :s
Do you have a picture?hi guys, i made a mistake scraping the clk point on an oled, and it continuously touches the ground around it, is there any way to fix it or is the board missing?
Yes. I don't remember the firmware that I had at the picofly chip but I THINK it was 2.64... something like thatDoes your switch lite has picofly install?
woops, I completely missed the reply. In regards of the sarcasm stuff I'm not used to the notifications of GBATemp and I missinterpreted that comment as a reply to my direct comment, my bad I'm still learning my "foruming".Sigh, read the thread and you'll understand why some of us seem jaded \snarky\sarcastic. You're asking for free help and also start it with an oxymoron. It is LITERALLY impossible to make a "flawless install" and have something go wrong after. Yet people keep saying something to that effect, repeatedly.
Doublecheck that your emmc connector and socket aren't damaged. Taking the emmc off can break the solder connections on its, uh, connector XD, and since you had it off, maybe there's something in the motherboards socket.
Let's see pics of the whole APU.
A lot of your wires look to have too long of a tinned end, use flush cutters to cut to a better length AFTER tinning the ends. Helps to be sure you're not shorting to something else.
I don't solder to the emmc, so I'm not sure but your 5th pic looks like the most-right-wire looks maybe shorted.
In a later pic you show a MOSFET and it looked like maybe Gate is shorted to Drain.
Did you use the memory card slot shield leg to ground the pico fly in your install?. If not try to format the memory card with adapter by pluging in computer and format it to fat32. If still doesn't work buy a new one and check it. Also follow a QuiTim advise below.Yes. I don't remember the firmware that I had at the picofly chip but I THINK it was 2.64... something like that
You should aim to solder those wires in a straight line so they have better contact and minimize the risk of them getting loose or shorting something.woops, I completely missed the reply. In regards of the sarcasm stuff I'm not used to the notifications of GBATemp and I missinterpreted that comment as a reply to my direct comment, my bad I'm still learning my "foruming".
As for the lenght, I agree. I can try to make them a little more flush on the board. I'll definitely take that advice
As for shorts, I usually run continuity mode to the next-most points to confirm if they're shorting or not, but I couldn't pinpoint anything at the moment I performed the check... maybe it happend after I closed it if at all?
In regards to the mosfet I think that's due to the angle I took the photo. They're actually not touching, let me post another picture rq.View attachment 372279
I think I solved it, but when testing, the chip gives a long light, a short one, and a long one. I can't find that error codeDo you have a picture?
I also used the RST point near the transistor. But my switch is working fine. or Should I switch it to the emmc rst one?It's funny that you mention that since the reason I killed the previous two V2 switches was because of my RST point since that was the only variable between V1 patched and V2 MARIKO since MARIKO has a transistor next to the point and I believe the heat killed it somehow.
I changed my installation layout to mostly use the eMMc points and I've seen incredible reliability using those, but this latest one just farted for no apparent reason.
I wished I had trouble installing it so that way I could just blame myself for a crappy installation but I made sure it was donde properly. Double/triple checked everything under the microscope during/after I was working but the BSOD was like a slap to the face :s
I just want to know how to avoid it as I'm having to replace every single board I kill and I'm running out of replacements :s
If it recognizes one card then the problem should not be with the card reader.Hi. I bought an Lexar SD card and my Switch Lite does not recognize it. My V1 and OLED both recognize but the lite doesn't. Is this something to do with the modchip? (And yes, it does reads my SanDisk SD so I have no clue of what the problem could be).
Error: =*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happenI think I solved it, but when testing, the chip gives a long light, a short one, and a long one. I can't find that error code
Long-short-longI think I solved it, but when testing, the chip gives a long light, a short one, and a long one. I can't find that error code
which cap? the one on the 3.3v rail or the other one?If you brave enough just remove that bellow cap.. and then clean the trace, it should be easier.
After that if you cannot solder it back then just leave it and see what happens, the switch itself will still turned on without that cap.
And for 3.3v point you can switch/use the one on the back of emmc module.
Seems to me like two separate =*, so it's probably a bad dat0 connection.=*=* eMMC write failure - write failed,
is this Samsung emmc on switch Oled support picofly ?
Beat me to itYou should aim to solder those wires in a straight line so they have better contact and minimize the risk of them getting loose or shorting something.
Also the gate wire is very exposed and may have at some point touched the drain line.
Now considering that Pico injects voltage through this line to open the mosfet if there was a short some of that current may have found it's way to APU or maybe on the opposite, some of the voltage from drain might have gone to gate and kept it open and god knows what happens then.
Anyway, it's just a theory since you are trying to figure out what happened anyway.
Great minds think alikeBeat me to it
It happens that I cut the clk track, and I turned it on and it gave the error =*=, now I rebuilt the track and the chip does not give an error, but when it stops glitching, the console does not give an image, maybe it diedLong-short-long
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
This is just an idea since i'm not 100% sure but I think that with clk line gone, there was no syncronisation between APU and Emmc so it might have lead to emmc corruption when trying to write to it.It happens that I cut the clk track, and I turned it on and it gave the error =*=, now I rebuilt the track and the chip does not give an error, but when it stops glitching, the console does not give an image, maybe it died
Nah, you should be fine if you found no problems. I just changed my layour preference since it was consistently causing me troubleI also used the RST point near the transistor. But my switch is working fine. or Should I switch it to the emmc rst one?
Indeed, I see no other variable that might make sense but I'll definitely make sure to improve my tin lenght or at least insulate before firing the switch up, but all signs point to a short in the mosfet to be the most likely culprit.You should aim to solder those wires in a straight line so they have better contact and minimize the risk of them getting loose or shorting something.
Also the gate wire is very exposed and may have at some point touched the drain line.
Now considering that Pico injects voltage through this line to open the mosfet if there was a short some of that current may have found it's way to APU or maybe on the opposite, some of the voltage from drain might have gone to gate and kept it open and god knows what happens then.
Anyway, it's just a theory since you are trying to figure out what happened anyway.