so this resistor has the value of 47k ohm?
I also found it strange, because the board connects normally to the original nand. It just doesn't rise or crash.
I tried this new AON7524 Vgs=2.5v mosfet on the back of this v2 board, it works with 3x47 ohm rp2040 setup.
Can't say how this mosfet glitch compared to 8342 or normal Vgs=4.5v mosfet yet, I will need some time turning on and off then switch back to 8432 then do the same thing,
Update: using back 8342 with same 0.5mm copper loaded with tin ," ==*" error code/glitch failed. Pretty sure is not soldering issue or lack of D or S solder.
AON7524 gives me averagely glitching around 3.5s (occasionally 5s+), from PSU measured it draws [email protected] when glitching and successes at [email protected] when picofly logo shows(bare board, you get the idea).
this guide here show how etcher can overwire Boot0/1, you just skip the hekate part and do the ums-loader way to mount the partition you want to rebuild
Okay, I forgot to reply to this, sorry. No, Lockipck won't run, just ums-loader, so no prod.keys. I'm going to search for a way to build a boot0/1 and try to flash with etcher, but not sure if there's any way to do that without prod.keys. If anyone knew about this, help would be appreciated.
But I also don't think that will solve the overall problem.
I have cut the lobe from de dat0 adapter and tried to place it as far drom dat1 as possible, but NX Nand Manager still can't read boot 0 and boot 1 (GPP works perfectly). I'm going to assume that's because the partitions have already been corrupted and can't be read even if dat0/1 isn't shorting anymore and try this.
But I also think the result will be the same and this is somehow RAM related, since even with short and boot0/1 corruption hekate should still launch.
Okay, I forgot to reply to this, sorry. No, Lockipck won't run, just ums-loader, so no prod.keys. I'm going to search for a way to build a boot0/1 and try to flash with etcher, but not sure if there's any way to do that without prod.keys. If anyone knew about this, help would be appreciated.
But I also don't think that will solve the overall problem.
I have cut the lobe from de dat0 adapter and tried to place it as far drom dat1 as possible, but NX Nand Manager still can't read boot 0 and boot 1 (GPP works perfectly). I'm going to assume that's because the partitions have already been corrupted and can't be read even if dat0/1 isn't shorting anymore and try this.
But I also think the result will be the same and this is somehow RAM related, since even with short and boot0/1 corruption hekate should still launch.
Very true, myself only seen once Blue screen when booting into OFW after picofly installed back to v2.5x FW I believe. And I was able to go into maintenance mode update OFW through wifi. At that time Hekate definitely running ok.
FYI, I remember Boot0/1 can be shared as long as on same OFW
Very true, myself only seen once Blue screen when booting into OFW after picofly installed back to v2.5x FW I believe. And I was able to go into maintenance mode update OFW through wifi. At that time Hekate definitely running ok.
FYI, I remember Boot0/1 can be shared as long as on same OFW
Even between Erista and Mariko? I have an unpatched switch and I never use it online. Because by luck they are both on 16.0.3. Would flashing that boot0/1 work? (Also, I have AutoRCM in my unpatched switch, I assume I would need to turn it off before the backup of boot0.)
Wooow,
actually soldering the wrong capacitor. But now I switched to the right capacitor and the same error code continued.
Will it never work? I am sad.
I had a lot of work so it took me a while to give a feedback here.
Thanks for the information, I apologize if my questions were bothersome and silly, I managed to install picofly with just one mosfet (irh8342) on the back of my switch model V1 and it is working perfectly.
I used a very thin double-sided tape to fix the mosfet on the board to help solder and also avoid any future problem of the solder breaking due to impact, I also used UV mask to protect, isolate and better fix the wires and solders. It wasn't as pretty as I had hoped, but it was pretty safe.
I'm going to leave pictures of how my work turned out, I hope it can help others, I'm also going to leave picofly's "flash-nuke", I had trouble finding it, I think it's interesting to share.
i think those pads are unused so u should be fine , take a hot air station and solder it back on but be carefull ur gonna have to solder from underneath, and the emmc is sitting right there.
i think those pads are unused so u should be fine , take a hot air station and solder it back on but be carefull ur gonna have to solder from underneath, and the emmc is sitting right there.
I can't say for sure by the photo, but they look like pads that don't have a connection in the circuit. Maybe just soldering a new connector will do the trick.
But like I said, you can't be sure from the picture.
Using an aluminum tape to protect the connector, a medium air flow and the temperature between 350 to 400°C, you will be able to solder from the top. But it requires some practice with the hot air station to not damage the new connector.
I had a lot of work so it took me a while to give a feedback here.
Thanks for the information, I apologize if my questions were bothersome and silly, I managed to install picofly with just one mosfet (irh8342) on the back of my switch model V1 and it is working perfectly.
I used a very thin double-sided tape to fix the mosfet on the board to help solder and also avoid any future problem of the solder breaking due to impact, I also used UV mask to protect, isolate and better fix the wires and solders. It wasn't as pretty as I had hoped, but it was pretty safe.
I'm going to leave pictures of how my work turned out, I hope it can help others, I'm also going to leave picofly's "flash-nuke", I had trouble finding it, I think it's interesting to share.
The AON6554 has only one G terminal the other 3 below it are S so as long as you did not bridge the 3 and 4 together you should be OK as far as wiring goes (see picture).
I am assuming that this is the orientation, so 1st pin bottom right (please check since I cannot see the mark on the mosftet from the picture)
Anyway, I think there is something else at play here.
The mosfets that work (tested by me) example IRF8342 has a total gate charge Qg of 4.2; AON7506 Qg 4.3; AON7518 Qg 6.9; IRF8714 Qg 8.1 while the one you are using AON6554 has the Qg of 21.3 @abal1000x what are your thoughts about this?
I think The mosfet already an okay . The rds is around 3-4mohms which already suitable for the glitch.
I agreed, from the picture i can't confirm wether the 1st pin is the right bottom or left top.
Also because the transistor flipped down, we couldn't solder to the center pad. Its important for the D to be soldered as wide as possible.
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