Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[eddz]

My experience with the flex is, its usually not stable.

When i played the NS by shaking, or carrying it on the train, car, playing outside, somehow, at one point it will simply failed. And you need to shake it couple of time until its glitched again. Its annoying in the side of the consumer. And yes its the most easier route for the modder.

Interesting. I haven't noticed any issues with the ones I've done (yet).
Which method would you prefer? Kamikaze?

 

[abal1000x]

Interesting. I haven't noticed any issues with the ones I've done (yet).
Which method would you prefer? Kamikaze?

ive no experience on kamikaze.

solid connection such as soldering to the dat0 line is preferred.

since the reset point are not easy to connect either, i prefer emmc board adapter. you got the rst point as a bonus.

 

[psycho-neon]

.

 

[LuigiGad]

My experience with the flex is, its usually not stable.

When i played the NS by shaking, or carrying it on the train, car, playing outside, somehow, at one point it will simply failed. And you need to shake it couple of time until its glitched again. Its annoying in the side of the consumer. And yes its the most easier route for the modder.

I have had several returns for this reason, I have learned to reball but in practice I continue to use the adapter. All the returns I had were caused by the short with dat1 and never from losing the connection with dat0. By modifying the adapter and preventing the cause of the short with dat1 the returns have been definitively fixed.

 

[Myst0gan]

I have had several returns for this reason, I have learned to reball but in practice I continue to use the adapter. All the returns I had were caused by the short with dat1 and never from losing the connection with dat0. By modifying the adapter and preventing the cause of the short with dat1 the returns have been definitively fixed.

Short where on Flex point that goes under the nand or on solder joint on the adapter??

 

[LuigiGad]

Short where on Flex point that goes under the nand or on solder joint on the adapter??

Under eMMC dat0-dat1

 

[Myst0gan]

Under eMMC dat0-dat1

Is dat1 ground??
Do you have a pin out of the nand

 

[LuigiGad]

Is dat1 ground??
Do you have a pin out of the nand

short circuit between dat0-dat1 alters the dat0 signal which the chip no longer recognizes and is considered as not connected.
short circuit is not necessarily meant with gnd

 

[chiefjoe]

The reset not connected is simply checking the RST voltage.
Its the first check the firmware did.
If the connection is solid, then the problem lay in other factor that make the RST voltage outside the accepted one.

Could you photo the point you use for 3.3V?

3.3V is the cap on the APU side of the m92 chip. And yes, the soldering could be better, but after the 3rd or 4th attempt, I was going for quick and dirty.

 

[abal1000x]

3.3V is the cap on the APU side of the m92 chip. And yes, the soldering could be better, but after the 3rd or 4th attempt, I was going for quick and dirty.

The 3.3V point is correct in there.

But the quality of the soldering is concerning.
I am afraid that it might SC with the apu's grounding, with a slight shake.

For me the best cable is insulated 40awg in aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005454458676.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005518392770.html
The insulator is not easily melted, and its small so its not ripping the caps pad.
I've used it for 3.3V and GND, it works.

 

[psycho-neon]

My 8th kamikaze. im loving this method more than anything else right now. Gives me thrill and challenge.

 

[jkyoho]

My 8th kamikaze. im loving this method more than anything else right now. Gives me thrill and challenge.

Nice work #38 gauge wire?

 

[karatefeet]

Further to my issues using the eMMC adapter, now I've had 2 OLEDs come back needing reballing when not even using the adapter so it's definitely my technique. Hoping for some tips from the pros else I'm gonna need to learn the kamikaze method


Here's my current process:

1. Add flux around eMMC and remove using hot air 350C 60 air flow
2. Mix low melt solder on pads of mainboard and chip then wick off. I find it helps remove all the solder from the pads.
3. Clean both with isopropyl alcohol
4. Add a tiny amount of flux to the eMMC and reball using Mechanic 183C paste Sn63Pb37. I've found that heating at 300C 30 air gives me more consistent balls. Remove stencil, add flux and heat again. Clean with iso.
5. Position wire to dat0 pad and tack on. I'm actually using the trace repair pads.
6. Add flux to the mainboard
7. Position chip and now use @deeps method - heat 160 for a minute, 260 for a minute, 330 for a minute

Anything else I should be doing?

The OLEDs worked fine but after some time it will fail to glitch. One was left charging for a few days and the other was constantly in the dock so I'm not sure if heat is a factor.

 

[superxoi]

Further to my issues using the eMMC adapter, now I've had 2 OLEDs come back needing reballing when not even using the adapter so it's definitely my technique. Hoping for some tips from the pros else I'm gonna need to learn the kamikaze method


Here's my current process:

1. Add flux around eMMC and remove using hot air 350C 60 air flow
2. Mix low melt solder on pads of mainboard and chip then wick off. I find it helps remove all the solder from the pads.
3. Clean both with isopropyl alcohol
4. Add a tiny amount of flux to the eMMC and reball using Mechanic 183C paste Sn63Pb37. I've found that heating at 300C 30 air gives me more consistent balls. Remove stencil, add flux and heat again. Clean with iso.
5. Position wire to dat0 pad and tack on. I'm actually using the trace repair pads.
6. Add flux to the mainboard
7. Position chip and now use @deeps method - heat 160 for a minute, 260 for a minute, 330 for a minute

Anything else I should be doing?

The OLEDs worked fine but after some time it will fail to glitch. One was left charging for a few days and the other was constantly in the dock so I'm not sure if heat is a factor.

Did you check your balls before you apllied it? Making sure all ball are even especially the using one. Your heating is a problem too. You stress your pcb for 3 minutes???? Do it with 350* C the time you need is 15 seconds. The more time you stress your pcb the more damage you cause for your component.

 

[Hassal]

Further to my issues using the eMMC adapter, now I've had 2 OLEDs come back needing reballing when not even using the adapter so it's definitely my technique. Hoping for some tips from the pros else I'm gonna need to learn the kamikaze method


Here's my current process:

1. Add flux around eMMC and remove using hot air 350C 60 air flow
2. Mix low melt solder on pads of mainboard and chip then wick off. I find it helps remove all the solder from the pads.
3. Clean both with isopropyl alcohol
4. Add a tiny amount of flux to the eMMC and reball using Mechanic 183C paste Sn63Pb37. I've found that heating at 300C 30 air gives me more consistent balls. Remove stencil, add flux and heat again. Clean with iso.
5. Position wire to dat0 pad and tack on. I'm actually using the trace repair pads.
6. Add flux to the mainboard
7. Position chip and now use @deeps method - heat 160 for a minute, 260 for a minute, 330 for a minute

Anything else I should be doing?

The OLEDs worked fine but after some time it will fail to glitch. One was left charging for a few days and the other was constantly in the dock so I'm not sure if heat is a factor.

You will likely get better results if you used balls instead of paste. Using solder paste will not always give you an even surface since some will be bigger than others.

Another thing is cleaning the flux residue.

 

[karatefeet]

Did you check your balls before you apllied it? Making sure all ball are even especially the using one. Your heating is a problem too. You stress your pcb for 3 minutes???? Do it with 350* C the time you need is 15 seconds. The more time you stress your pcb the more damage you cause for your component.

Ok that was what I was doing previously... 350* C and yes always checked the balls. I'm getting much better consistency now in terms of the sizes.

Post automatically merged: Jan 11, 2024

You will likely get better results if you used balls instead of paste. Using solder paste will not always give you an even surface since some will be bigger than others.

Another thing is cleaning the flux residue.

Ok yes something to consider for sure. Do you have a good method for cleaning the flux residue? I am assuming this is the flux under the chip?

 

[Hassal]

Ok that was what I was doing previously... 350* C and yes always checked the balls. I'm getting much better consistency now in terms of the sizes.

Post automatically merged: Jan 11, 2024

Ok yes something to consider for sure. Do you have a good method for cleaning the flux residue? I am assuming this is the flux under the chip?

Proper method of cleaning is an ultrasonic, but you can also use air pressured solvent for less thorough cleaning.

 

[Myst0gan]

My 8th kamikaze. im loving this method more than anything else right now. Gives me thrill and challenge.

Is the blue alternative rst point??

Post automatically merged: Jan 11, 2024

Ok that was what I was doing previously... 350* C and yes always checked the balls. I'm getting much better consistency now in terms of the sizes.

Post automatically merged: Jan 11, 2024

Ok yes something to consider for sure. Do you have a good method for cleaning the flux residue? I am assuming this is the flux under the chip?

I make cotton balls (about the same size of tin balls or lil bit bigger) soak it in ipl then clean the area with help of tweezers. It's time consuming, but removes the Flux for good

 

[psycho-neon]

Is the blue alternative rst point??

Yes, it’s an alternative point nearby the speaker and the triangular ground point.

 

[Myst0gan]

short circuit between dat0-dat1 alters the dat0 signal which the chip no longer recognizes and is considered as not connected.
short circuit is not necessarily meant with gnd

Do you know what's the diode reading when dat0 and dat1 are shorted??

How do you guys remove the shield barrier around the nand on oleds?? I normally break it apart carefully, but a lot of time it takes the the ground pads with it, which I absolutely hate.