Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Hola! (Barcelonés viviendo en Madrid).

The photo I have is one I took after install. No good quality and I added glue to the trinket usb because taking it out the component I destroyed a little bit the pads. Anyway photo below.

https://ibb.co/mhx6i9

I do not have any spare dock to give a try. As a side note it works perfect if I switch on the console.

I MADE A MISTAKE WITH METHOD 3 POINT FOR PIN 4!!!

i have now corrected it, so please have a look at the TRINKET picture for method 3 and correct your installation.

THE PINK TRACE WAS WRONG!!!

No damage will be caused, but it will make the dock go crazy.

Really sorry!

Corrected now.

 

[mattytrog]

Updated OP with warning. Please read if it applies to you!

Anyone interested in this UF2 for multi-payload method 1?

 

[wiiando]

Can method 2 boot from a cold boot?

Installed a trinket m0 tonight and get stuck in rcm mode? from a cold boot, it looks like the trinket doesn't send it quick enough or something, if I boot normal and reboot then vol + power it boots every time.

 

[mattytrog]

Can method 2 boot from a cold boot?

Installed a trinket m0 tonight and get stuck in rcm mode? from a cold boot, it looks like the trinket doesn't send it quick enough or something, if I boot normal and reboot then vol + power it boots every time.

Method 2 is a cold boot method for dual boot.
If you are trying to save efuses, do not use it. autoRCM will cause problems with method 2.

If you have installed method 2 and it isn't behaving itself in autoRCM, and you NEED autorcm, disable the reset wire. Clip it or whatever. But make sure your trinket reset button is intact before doing so. Or you will have a hard time flashing uf2 files to it

 

[wiiando]

Method 2 is a cold boot method for dual boot.
If you are trying to save efuses, do not use it. autoRCM will cause problems with method 2.

If you have installed method 2 and it isn't behaving itself in autoRCM, and you NEED autorcm, disable the reset wire. Clip it or whatever. But make sure your trinket reset button is intact before doing so. Or you will have a hard time flashing uf2 files to it

I'm not using autorcm, I press vol+ and power to enter rcm, I was assuming it was stuck in rcm was because i get a black screen and the trinket doesn't flash until sometime after.

 

[mattytrog]

I'm not using autorcm, I press vol+ and power to enter rcm, I was assuming it was stuck in rcm was because i get a black screen and the trinket doesn't flash until sometime after.

Oh I see. Sorry!

There is no reason logically it should not send the payload straight away. Every one I've done has sent ok.

Just make sure you are holding vol+ before you hit power. Hold power down for a second too.

Let me know!

 

[vcazan]

Hello, I just wanted to say thank you for all your hard work making this work. I have installed the M0 Trinket with the first method, and I thought that it was working because my console would boot fine and I could run homebrew. However today I discovered that I cannot run any games when the device boots with the Trinket, if I use my phone to send the payload the games load just file. I used the file in the forum post and uploaded them to the trinket. Any ideas why this is happening and anything I can do to fix it?

EDIT: One thing I do notice is that when I send the payload with my phone, there are a few extra lines output on boot, and a extra second delay between splash screen and Nintendo boot screen.

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[jvv]

Good morning guys!

I’m confused of what happen with my pink wire. As far as I have checked the pink wire should go from pin10 joy con to pin 3 of trinket right?

As far as I checked there is no bridge either usb or trinket usb pads.

Could you please give me some lights here as I don’t know how to do with the pink wire.

Cheers

 

[mattytrog]

Good morning guys!

I’m confused of what happen with my pink wire. As far as I have checked the pink wire should go from pin10 joy con to pin 3 of trinket right?

As far as I checked there is no bridge either usb or trinket usb pads.

Could you please give me some lights here as I don’t know how to do with the pink wire.

Cheers

I'm referring to the pink trace I drew on the method 3 picture. Not yours

Your trinket pin 2 is wrong (I made a mistake with the picture which is now correct).

Please correct the capacitor!

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[jvv]

I'm referring to the pink trace I drew on the method 3 picture. Not yours

Your trinket pin 2 is wrong (I made a mistake with the picture which is now correct).

Please correct the capacitor!

Ok I could see where the issue is. I will fix the problem. Wrong point on switch board.

Thanks

 

[Gianga]

can i use this point for Vol + ?

 

[wiiando]

Oh I see. Sorry!

There is no reason logically it should not send the payload straight away. Every one I've done has sent ok.

Just make sure you are holding vol+ before you hit power. Hold power down for a second too.

Let me know!

I think I'd bridged the 2 caps for 3v, must of missed it, would that of caused it?

 

[jvv]

I've changed the pin 2 to the correct switch point. I do not have any dock here as I'm not at home But I guess I could try with the PC because when I hat the wrong point it did not charge the switch when It was turned off. I will keep you posted. Again thanks to every one who helped me out

*Update*

It works as it should with the correct schema.

 

[jvv]

I would like to ask another thing. In case I want to compile the code you provided is there any extra library I have to install in Arduino IDE? I've read in other post that if we would like to compile the source code we need to install extra libraries.

Do you have any step by step guide?
Cheers

 

[vcazan]

I use Rei on my system. Basically if I use the Trinket to boot the system starts fine and boots, I get the custom splash page and I can run app store and tinfoil. But when I try and run games I've installed though tinfoin I get the error message when they load.

Now if I turn off my system and boot with the Rei payload bin file from my phone the console boots up and the games run just fine. It seems like the Trinket paylaod is not patching something correctly. The wiring looks fine to me as if there was an issue with that I'd expect the console not to boot but stay in RCM mode.

Any help is appreciated. Unfortunately I've already soldered the USB port off my trinket so it will be hard to reprogram. May have to order another Trinket.

So yesterday you were able to run games just fine?

What are you using to run games? SX? Rei? Raj?

I would start by making sure you have the right files on the Trinket. Then, double check your wiring/work.

I have had to pronounce dead a few consoles due to people's inexperience soldering. It may sound silly but flux misuse is the cause most of the times.

Flux it will eat away just about EVERYTHING. With enough time that stuff will eat its way through the earth itself.
Dead pads, corroded caps, bridged stuff etc.

I cannot stress that enough. FLUX WILL KILL YOUR CONSOLES IF NOT CLEANED PROPERLY!!!!!!!!!

Check your work and upload a picture of it just to be on the safe side.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



Check the picture I've marked it 3 times.

From the bottom up:

What is that pink wire doing there?
Can you test those pad points to make sure there isn't a bridge?
Are you 100% certain your USB port is untouched? Those pins look a little odd in the picture.

I am sure it is something to do with either a bridge on the Trinket or your USB port pins.

Either way let us know.

-Mikel

View attachment 139313

 

[wiiando]

So unbridged the cap, rechecked all my points, still the same issue, trinket doesn't get power at turn on or something and doesn't send the payload until some time after, just tried method 3 without vol+ strap, works everytime from cold boot, not sure what i'm doing wrong.

Also can't update via usb with method 3 the devices never show up. but method 2 works fine for that, guessing the trinket isn't resetting?

 

[mattytrog]

I use Rei on my system. Basically if I use the Trinket to boot the system starts fine and boots, I get the custom splash page and I can run app store and tinfoil. But when I try and run games I've installed though tinfoin I get the error message when they load.

Now if I turn off my system and boot with the Rei payload bin file from my phone the console boots up and the games run just fine. It seems like the Trinket paylaod is not patching something correctly. The wiring looks fine to me as if there was an issue with that I'd expect the console not to boot but stay in RCM mode.

Any help is appreciated. Unfortunately I've already soldered the USB port off my trinket so it will be hard to reprogram. May have to order another Trinket.

No. You can reprogram through the switch USB. Double press reset when in Horizon. Update as you like.

 

[vcazan]

No. You can reprogram through the switch USB. Double press reset when in Horizon. Update as you like.

What do you mean by in Horizon?

 

[jvv]

When you are in switch "Home page" of the firmware.

• They found out that the operating system’s internal name is Horizon, that it is an evolution of the Nintendo 3DS system software, and implementing a microkernel architecture.

More info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nintendo_Switch_system_software