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Nintendo Switch
3D Printed Jig Issue
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<blockquote data-quote="Apache Thunder" data-source="post: 8035732" data-attributes="member: 105648"><p>[USER=447498]@ShaytheStar[/USER] You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite14" alt=":P" title="tongue :P" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":P" /> ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]130806[/ATTACH]</p><p>(the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite14" alt=":P" title="tongue :P" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":P" /> )</p><p></p><p>The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Apache Thunder, post: 8035732, member: 105648"] [USER=447498]@ShaytheStar[/USER] You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. :P ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like: [ATTACH=full]130806[/ATTACH] (the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. :P ) The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. ;) [/QUOTE]
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