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<blockquote data-quote="FAST6191" data-source="post: 7810651" data-attributes="member: 32303"><p>What is with the spam and dumb cunt responses? Do we want another 3ds or wii section? It will happen again if you all drive off people with genuine questions. There are doubtless places on the internet with a higher proportion of fault finding types or relatively more active ones but it is hardly absent here (games, modding and such not being unknown hobbies among said electrical repair inclined types) and it is not a new phenomenon either.</p><p></p><p>That picture I can't do much with as it is far too low res -- it is possible to do with a camera but microscope or loupe is what I would have to play with. Nothing there looks obviously misaligned, badly placed or big solder blob shorted but at the sizes and lack of res there I am very far from any kind of certainty.</p><p>Compared to the switch teardown on</p><p><a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+Switch+Teardown/78263" target="_blank">https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+Switch+Teardown/78263</a></p><p>You appear to be missing a component in line with the top of Z in the stamped alphanumeric bit. Whether that is a simple hardware revision or not I do not know but I mention it anyway. Can't tell what it is on that but a little black band device could well be a power supply of some form and thus causing a low voltage in that location in its absence. Picture is too low res to see if it was a mechanical removal or something, not that a bad day with the paste dispenser would show even then.</p><p></p><p>Anyway I assume no thermal camera -- 0.7 watts is not a lot (might even struggle with fingers outside of a known fault/common fault scenario) but most surface mount components are rated for less than half that (maybe even a quarter that) and will thus cause them to light up rather brightly under said thing. IR thermometer might do too but it will take longer. I should also say it is not impossible that initial current draw is rather high (it is an underclocked shield after all, if said clocks or multipliers thereof are software set...) and it is then reduced by whatever means, if the thing is stuck in a boot loop and can not get to the current drop part then this may be a red herring. If you have a known working reference then that might be worth testing against.</p><p></p><p>Cowboy method. Fly a voltage lead to different points in the chain to narrow the fault down further. Normally better to save that for open circuit faults but can do things here. If you want to create more work you can also try breaking ground connections and providing them back.</p><p></p><p>Have you tried light pressure on/flexing of the board? For these multi layer monstrosities then it can tell you a surprising amount.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FAST6191, post: 7810651, member: 32303"] What is with the spam and dumb cunt responses? Do we want another 3ds or wii section? It will happen again if you all drive off people with genuine questions. There are doubtless places on the internet with a higher proportion of fault finding types or relatively more active ones but it is hardly absent here (games, modding and such not being unknown hobbies among said electrical repair inclined types) and it is not a new phenomenon either. That picture I can't do much with as it is far too low res -- it is possible to do with a camera but microscope or loupe is what I would have to play with. Nothing there looks obviously misaligned, badly placed or big solder blob shorted but at the sizes and lack of res there I am very far from any kind of certainty. Compared to the switch teardown on [URL]https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+Switch+Teardown/78263[/URL] You appear to be missing a component in line with the top of Z in the stamped alphanumeric bit. Whether that is a simple hardware revision or not I do not know but I mention it anyway. Can't tell what it is on that but a little black band device could well be a power supply of some form and thus causing a low voltage in that location in its absence. Picture is too low res to see if it was a mechanical removal or something, not that a bad day with the paste dispenser would show even then. Anyway I assume no thermal camera -- 0.7 watts is not a lot (might even struggle with fingers outside of a known fault/common fault scenario) but most surface mount components are rated for less than half that (maybe even a quarter that) and will thus cause them to light up rather brightly under said thing. IR thermometer might do too but it will take longer. I should also say it is not impossible that initial current draw is rather high (it is an underclocked shield after all, if said clocks or multipliers thereof are software set...) and it is then reduced by whatever means, if the thing is stuck in a boot loop and can not get to the current drop part then this may be a red herring. If you have a known working reference then that might be worth testing against. Cowboy method. Fly a voltage lead to different points in the chain to narrow the fault down further. Normally better to save that for open circuit faults but can do things here. If you want to create more work you can also try breaking ground connections and providing them back. Have you tried light pressure on/flexing of the board? For these multi layer monstrosities then it can tell you a surprising amount. [/QUOTE]
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