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Picofly in V2 shows “no sd card” but fails to boot Hekate/OFW
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<blockquote data-quote="Frkn" data-source="post: 10347438" data-attributes="member: 683560"><p>Here's information on the format of the NAND:</p><p>switchbrew.org/wiki/Flash_Filesystem</p><p></p><p>I will have everything in hand in ~ 3 weeks to read/write from/to the eMMC and reball the APU if needed (I've bought another dead OLED that I'm trying to revive). As for the APU, I'm right there with you, I didn't put nearly enough heat soldering that ribbon cable to cause the balls to melt, and even if that was the case, the board never moved, so they would have kept their form and resolidified. Both the APU and the board absorb a lot of heat before solder can melt, and there's no way the fine tip on my iron could output that kind of heat.</p><p></p><p>I'll recheck around the APU tonight in order to see if I can find a broken trace somewhere, as that would be the most likely issue.</p><p></p><p>The only other way I can see the APU being bridged is that when cutting the shield a tiny metal shaving dropped and lodged itself underneath the APU.</p><p>[automerge]1706728639[/automerge]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Thanks for the info.</p><p>[automerge]1706757752[/automerge]</p><p>Update on my situation: Turns out I DID have a cut trace near the CLK (D) point. I scratched the board a bit when cutting the shield, cleaned and checked it and I thought I only removed a bit of mask, so I masked it out and called it a day.</p><p></p><p>So yeah, did a proper repair and blue screen is gone. I now have to reinstall the chip.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Frkn, post: 10347438, member: 683560"] Here's information on the format of the NAND: switchbrew.org/wiki/Flash_Filesystem I will have everything in hand in ~ 3 weeks to read/write from/to the eMMC and reball the APU if needed (I've bought another dead OLED that I'm trying to revive). As for the APU, I'm right there with you, I didn't put nearly enough heat soldering that ribbon cable to cause the balls to melt, and even if that was the case, the board never moved, so they would have kept their form and resolidified. Both the APU and the board absorb a lot of heat before solder can melt, and there's no way the fine tip on my iron could output that kind of heat. I'll recheck around the APU tonight in order to see if I can find a broken trace somewhere, as that would be the most likely issue. The only other way I can see the APU being bridged is that when cutting the shield a tiny metal shaving dropped and lodged itself underneath the APU. [automerge]1706728639[/automerge] Thanks for the info. [automerge]1706757752[/automerge] Update on my situation: Turns out I DID have a cut trace near the CLK (D) point. I scratched the board a bit when cutting the shield, cleaned and checked it and I thought I only removed a bit of mask, so I masked it out and called it a day. So yeah, did a proper repair and blue screen is gone. I now have to reinstall the chip. [/QUOTE]
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