Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[bilalhassan341]

I tried. Worked once on a v2 but Got 3 blue screens on Lites and OLEDs. I just have to face the fact that I don't possess the required skills for MOSFETs.

It is not about having a professional skill or not. You install the chip right. The issue is that you should check the chip wires and other wire and confirm that all are connected and not shorted before turning on the switch.

That's why I recommend you to use solder mask to fix a wire in place. I always use solder mask after soldering the wire in place. I also checked that the wire are not shorted or should be in correct place or not be connected with other wires before turning on I always look twice.

Because I don't have enough parts resource in my country to fix the switch, I have to buy it from aliexpress and wait like 3 months and sometimes customs rejects the parcel due to electronic parts. I think you can mod a switch but don't rush in.

 

[QuiTim]

I tried. Worked once on a v2 but Got 3 blue screens on Lites and OLEDs. I just have to face the fact that I don't possess the required skills for MOSFETs.

You could consider using a bigger one like these

 

[Cristiano04]

hey guys! can detach if two resistors, can anyone tell me what their values are and where to find them? Note: I have an unused V1 board.

 

[bilalhassan341]

You could consider using a bigger one like these

The fact I also liked this AON7506 mosfet because it looks way easier to solder than regular one.

 

[EAGLE-1]

check ur cmd resistor if its soldered on properly if it is solders properly replace it its 4,7k

the problem with the guide about install,this chip is difrent to the ones in the pictures,also we already change the cmd resistor,remove totally the chip and console dont turn on at all

 

[QuiTim]

I tried. Worked once on a v2 but Got 3 blue screens on Lites and OLEDs. I just have to face the fact that I don't possess the required skills for MOSFETs.

You could consider using a bigger one like these

Here is a photo comparison

 

[jkyoho]

hey guys! can detach if two resistors, can anyone tell me what their values are and where to find them? Note: I have an unused V1 board.

both 4.7k ohm

 

[FreeLander]

Here is a photo comparison

Thank you!
While doing Mosftes, I'd say my most challenging thing is to solder a 0.2mm wire to the cap. I always seem to burn it. I do 330c and can't get used to it. Makes me nervous. As far as thee MOSFET itself goes, I'm pretty comfortable with the small one. It's the caps that worry me. Thank you again.

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

It is not about having a professional skill or not. You install the chip right. The issue is that you should check the chip wires and other wire and confirm that all are connected and not shorted before turning on the switch.

That's why I recommend you to use solder mask to fix a wire in place. I always use solder mask after soldering the wire in place. I also checked that the wire are not shorted or should be in correct place or not be connected with other wires before turning on I always look twice.

Because I don't have enough parts resource in my country to fix the switch, I have to buy it from aliexpress and wait like 3 months and sometimes customs rejects the parcel due to electronic parts. I think you can mod a switch but don't rush in.

Thank you for the encouragement, brother. I never turn on the OLED without testing all points on diode mode. I always get 0.5v-0.8v on all points, and 1.2 on RST. When using MOSFETs, for some reason, I don't get a diode reading but when it works, it works.

I think you put it best, I should not rush it and REALLY take my time. I should be able to do it as I've spent so much time learning how to do it. I may just need to take a deep breath before going in.

Thank you.

 

[Zm1231]

So I found what looks like a Pico custom board on Aliexpress that comes with the OLED Cable and a new Mainboard cable. Has anyone tried this yet?

 

[QuiTim]

Thank you!
While doing Mosftes, I'd say my most challenging thing is to solder a 0.2mm wire to the cap. I always seem to burn it. I do 330c and can't get used to it. Makes me nervous. As far as thee MOSFET itself goes, I'm pretty comfortable with the small one. It's the caps that worry me. Thank you again.

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

Thank you for the encouragement, brother. I never turn on the OLED without testing all points on diode mode. I always get 0.5v-0.8v on all points, and 1.2 on RST. When using MOSFETs, for some reason, I don't get a diode reading but when it works, it works.

I think you put it best, I should not rush it and REALLY take my time. I should be able to do it as I've spent so much time learning how to do it. I may just need to take a deep breath before going in.

Thank you.

You are welcome.
As for capacitor I would suggest,
- Weller RTP 001 solder tip (you can get a custom pen for these tips if you don't want to buy the whole station, let me know if you need the link) or
- JBC C115118 tip (you can pair these with alot of chinese stations)
You can cheap out on station but the tip has to be genuine
- Good flux (it makes a difference)
- Sn63/Pb37 or preferably Sn62Pb36Ag2 solder
Soldering iron to 370-400, tin the mosfet wire then add flux to cap and add some solder to the tip of the iron and just slightly touch the side of the cap and boom you added some low melt solder to cap. Now pres the tinned wire to cap and again just a slight touch (2sec max) and there you have it.
I guarantee that you will nail it
Now don't get me wrong, there are people here that can solder this with their left foot holding a fork heated over stove but I'm not one of those guys so having the right tools (in this case read expensive) puts you closer to the pro league

 

[EAGLE-1]

So I found what looks like a Pico custom board on Aliexpress that comes with the OLED Cable and a new Mainboard cable. Has anyone tried this yet?

View attachment 372478

yes i tried,in a brand new oled,console is dead with black screen and some times purple screen,still cant figure out if the problem was the chip,but i can tell you,the old chips works perfect

 

[Danook28]

Just route it outside of the shield. That's what I do to all non-OLED models. like so:View attachment 372466

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

Just be sure to leave the wires as short as you can to prevent any issues during the injection process, but by my experience it's never failed so far and I've done half a dozen Lites.

Amizing pico place.... I dont know is it really fit????

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

You meaning dangerous to buy this????

yes i tried,in a brand new oled,console is dead with black screen and some times purple screen,still cant figure out if the problem was the chip,but i can tell you,the old chips works perfect

 

[Interceptor777]

View attachment 372459
Hi everyone, i am installing on my lite, i just wonder why we put pico on top of mmc, it seem fit quite good, place it ontop of ram require cut the shield, and i want to keep it intact as much as posible. Anyone who put in on here can help me with the pinout closest with it? , Pinout on the pdf tut quite far from here. for eg, the 3.3v

I used the same 3v3 and ground, longer wires aren't a problem for those, at least not in my case.

 

[deeps]

this thread really needs to be split into a firmware thread and an installation thread. it sucks sifting through all the installation stuff when i just want to read about firmware changes, bugs, observations etc

 

[tsukimaru]

So I just found the weirdest behavior on an OLED. I finished installing a PicoFly and the moment I plug in the battery, the Fan goes nuts despite the fact the console is off. I uninstalled everything and the darn thing keeps doing the same (worth noting that the PicoFly successfully injected the payload and everything before uninstalling.

I'm about to go crazy as this has never happened before. Any ideas of what the issue could be? I followed the AIO wiring diagram

 

[Danook28]

So I just found the weirdest behavior on an OLED. I finished installing a PicoFly and the moment I plug in the battery, the Fan goes nuts despite the fact the console is off. I uninstalled everything and the darn thing keeps doing the same (worth noting that the PicoFly successfully injected the payload and everything before uninstalling.

I'm about to go crazy as this has never happened before. Any ideas of what the issue could be? I followed the AIO wiring diagram

Are you soldring 3v3 on oled charge port!!!!!

 

[tsukimaru]

Are you soldring 3v3 on oled charge port!!!!!

No, I'm using the AIO wiring suggestion of using one of the caps on the top for the 3.3v

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

Amizing pico place.... I dont know is it really fit????

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

You meaning dangerous to buy this????

Not sure if you mean if it closes properly, but yeah. It does close nicely.

 

[Adran_Marit]

oooh broken firms are not fun. - I'll poke ansem later today about it

No, I'm using the AIO wiring suggestion of using one of the caps on the top for the 3.3vView attachment 372510

Post automatically merged: May 19, 2023

Not sure if you mean if it closes properly, but yeah. It does close nicely.

I'm guessing something on the fan circuit is dead or shorted

 

[tsukimaru]

oooh broken firms are not fun. - I'll poke ansem later today about it

I'm guessing something on the fan circuit is dead or shorted

Do you think that replacing the fan would fix it? I can find nothing about this specific issue online anywhere

 

[ThiagoDaruma]

Hello everybody.
today the parts I bought from china to make the mod chip on my oled switch and 4 more customers arrived.
I already made hundreds of HWFLY and it will be my first PICOFLY.
I was confident with all the documentation I read and the solder work, but after reading some pages of the forum here I got a certain fear.
first and it would just do the job, but as soon as I installed the firmware on the 2040 I already had problems. when uploading the 2.72 firmware on the chip it flashed a "yellowish" light, maybe a green mixed with yellow?
I made the rgb mod and didn't get any difference.
after uploading firmware 2.67, the colors reacted as expected, red without mod and green with mod.
Was there any change in the leds in the new update? is it safe to use it? I saw it was posted yesterday, maybe it's too early?
I have 30awg colored cables for the APU mosfet, 3.3v and 0.1mm enameled copper cable for the others, would that be correct?
And then there's the big problem that I saw in some posts and that's what scared me the most.
I bought DAT0 adapters and they came with 3 anchor points. I put pictures, recommendation? I can't wait for other adapters, they would take almost 20 days to arrive.
I'm putting pictures of the mosfets and the DAT0 adapter: