apparently, the rail can serve as ground everywhere if you scratch off some of the black paint covering it.
It's not about me being happy. I knew this was a non-issue, but SOME folks here are ready to butt heads simply for the hell of it. Pictures are the number one way to piss'em off and prove'em wrong all in one fell swoop.
It's not about me being happy. I knew this was a non-issue, but SOME folks here are ready to butt heads simply for the hell of it. Pictures are the number one way to piss'em off and prove'em wrong all in one fell swoop.
I wonder if the updated joy-con firmware that came with 5.0 is the problem? My Switch is still on 4.1.0Heh. YouTube kid. Video below, on shorting PIN 10 to the ground (PIN 1 - Well, ground have to be common over an electronic circuit so literally I couldn't fuck up). Initially bridge is open and everything works fine, then I'm grounding pins by changing switch position and controller automagically dissapered - it works over bluetooth.
You know your picture, mine does exactly the same as that, it wont show as the right joy con connected properly to the switch unit but it still charges and works as it should so I cannot see a problem the only annoying bit is the small picture in the bottom left hand corner pops up saying its not connected sometimes. Yours shows the left joy con but mine does it too the right one modded. Its ok with both joycons out of the switch works and shows normal but when both slid in connected the right is not fully showing but like I say it still works just as it should and boots into Rcm +/Power buttons I can show you an img as well if anyone likes to see it? but hes right. Mine is on 5.0.2 firmware, it might be the latest 5x firmware thats at fault here.Sure, here you go.
http://imgur.com/gallery/iLGXjYk (one is 1.0.0, one is 4.1.0)
That might be the problem. I used pin 9 and 10. And the image I and brycey have made shows pin 9 and 10 pads/test points, which works fine.
I did some measurements on the Joycon with Battery off and Pin 9 seems not to be hard connected to GND.For some reason f0f says that PIN 9 won't work which was true in my case, hence I have used PIN 1, and it work as a charm. I just have a simple switch to remove bridge between PIN's so thats fine. Other people say that 10 & 9 work even better for them. There has to be some kind of magic with PIN 9...
What FW do people with non-working joy-con have? @kombos
in this forum , software only reboot to RCM has been released.Is there more details about reboot to rcm for 1.0.0?
This is not a tutorial, why should it be in the tutorial section (if you ment the first post).Thank you for this bro, it clarifies everything we need to know. Btw , why dont you move it out to the tutorial section? That d help lots of people
What FW do people with non-working joy-con have? @kombos
There is something funky about your setup, because as someone who has done the bend trick and lost pin 9 and 10, I can confirm the controller did not detect in tablet mode with the pins bridged and or missing. Are you sure you are still able to get into RCM and your solder joint is solid?
I'm just asking questions because this doesn't make any sense. Is the firmware of your controllers on latest firmware?
I have no idea. Mine "jiged" joy-con is from 1.0.0 FW and was never updated.Well actually I've test it on all my 3 consoles. So it acts the same on every single one of them (see my signature). It might be related to JoyCon firmware as I'm using one mooded JoyCon as a jig (?)
That depends on the user. Soldering might be more convenient for experienced users.Just setup the paperclip, good easy solution!
I don't know... It seems pretty easy fucking up your switch if you connect the wrong pins or if your wire moves unintentionally...