Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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noX1609

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Is the capacitor at the 3,3V point very important? Because yesterday i took apart the console and saw that this capacitor was loose at one side and after some light touch it fall off completely. I could try soldering it back on, pads are ok but if it‘s not needed it wouldn‘t risk it. Console works without a problem for months, maybe it was already off one side at purchase of the console because it was never opened before.
But i thought i better ask because if something can be damaged it would pay someone to solder it back on because i‘m scared of such small points, alteady destroyed one board in the past.
 

mattytrog

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Is the capacitor at the 3,3V point very important? Because yesterday i took apart the console and saw that this capacitor was loose at one side and after some light touch it fall off completely. I could try soldering it back on, pads are ok but if it‘s not needed it wouldn‘t risk it. Console works without a problem for months, maybe it was already off one side at purchase of the console because it was never opened before.
But i thought i better ask because if something can be damaged it would pay someone to solder it back on because i‘m scared of such small points, alteady destroyed one board in the past.
Its a smoothing capacitor. Your mileage may vary. Some are stable without it, some aren`t. Guess it depends how clean the regulators / PSU are.
 

noX1609

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Its a smoothing capacitor. Your mileage may vary. Some are stable without it, some aren`t. Guess it depends how clean the regulators / PSU are.
Ok thanks. But can this leed to damage at one of the parts on the board or could it just be the case that the console might crash and restart? Because then i can do the soldering if that happens but if it could damage parts then i will solder it to the board before doing something else or i will search someone who can solder it for me.

Sorry for the amount of questions but i‘m confused atm :(
 
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IAmBeave

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After doing a bit of googling / reading, it does sound like I have a problem with my M92T36 chip. Probably down to the integrated usb ports on the house's mains sockets, even though I made sure to buy a 56k cable. Bummer. I don't have the right equipment to change one though unfortunately.
 

mattytrog

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After doing a bit of googling / reading, it does sound like I have a problem with my M92T36 chip. Probably down to the integrated usb ports on the house's mains sockets, even though I made sure to buy a 56k cable. Bummer. I don't have the right equipment to change one though unfortunately.

Easy way to check... Well, 50% check anyway... There are 2 capacitors to the left of the M92T36. The one called VCC-IN. Check it is at 3 - 6 v. If it is, then chances are your M92T36 is OK...
 

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Easy way to check... Well, 50% check anyway... There are 2 capacitors to the left of the M92T36. The one called VCC-IN. Check it is at 3 - 6 v. If it is, then chances are your M92T36 is OK...

Usually I'd google this, but it's late and I've had a couple of beers so I'm gonna go the lazy route and ask... :)

I see the two caps, but is it the one nearest the CPU or the one nearest M92T36? and I assume I measure from the top point of the cap, but then again, assumption is the mother of all fu*kups. lol.
 

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I have some questions left:

If i want to use multiboot what are the filenames for the different Payload .bin files? Is it still as in the linked thread? (01 for the first, 02 for second and so on?) Im asking because in the linked thread it telld to use the file extension.s2 and here .nx

And are the different modes still the same as in the pdf linked in the other thread?
To change the mode i have to solder a switch between pin 4 and ground, right? How do i know which mode is selected?
Do i need to select the mode again on every boot or is it saved?
Can i still set the starting mode via hex editor as described in the other thread or is it on another offset now? (if so which offset is correct?).
 

mattytrog

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I have some questions left:

If i want to use multiboot what are the filenames for the different Payload .bin files? Is it still as in the linked thread? (01 for the first, 02 for second and so on?) Im asking because in the linked thread it telld to use the file extension.s2 and here .nx

And are the different modes still the same as in the pdf linked in the other thread?
To change the mode i have to solder a switch between pin 4 and ground, right? How do i know which mode is selected?
Do i need to select the mode again on every boot or is it saved?
Can i still set the starting mode via hex editor as described in the other thread or is it on another offset now? (if so which offset is correct?).
I`m going to update the thread. Might take me an hour. But I have made it very simple now.

Please bare with me...
 

karloz25

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I have a SwitchMe via ReBug.
I want to install it.
Is it still 4 wires?
I was on 2.01 and now on latest FW via Chiordijour.
 

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Just installed to trinket but my screen won't turn on. When i remove all the wires from the trinket the switch boots up fine. Checked all the wires for continuity and i don't have any bridges. I have an idea that i somehow managed to flash the chip wrong. I went with the version 1 bootloader and the 0 folder chainloader. Any ideas how to debug this one?

image1.jpg
 

mattytrog

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Just installed to trinket but my screen won't turn on. When i remove all the wires from the trinket the switch boots up fine. Checked all the wires for continuity and i don't have any bridges. I have an idea that i somehow managed to flash the chip wrong. I went with the version 1 bootloader and the 0 folder chainloader. Any ideas how to debug this one?

image1.jpg
Do you get any graphic on screen when SD is ejected? Try that.

Press power for 12 seconds to make sure you are completely off... Try rebooting...

Check your GND connection.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Also... What is insulating your trinket from the metal ram shield??? If nothing, you could have a short
 

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Ok im an idiot and i didn't fully stick double sided tape on the bottom and i shorted it. So it boots up now, get a disco of led lights. But i keep getting in the regular nintendo os i don't get the graphic that is shown in the op when no sd card is present and i press and hol vol + and power.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Ok im an idiot and i didn't fully stick double sided tape on the bottom and i shorted it. So it boots up now, get a disco of led lights. But i keep getting in the regular nintendo os i don't get the graphic that is shown in the op when no sd card is present and i press and hol vol + and power.

When holding vol + and power the led goes purple, blinking green a few times, steady red and then off after that it boots the nintendo os.
 

mattytrog

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Ok im an idiot and i didn't fully stick double sided tape on the bottom and i shorted it. So it boots up now, get a disco of led lights. But i keep getting in the regular nintendo os i don't get the graphic that is shown in the op when no sd card is present and i press and hol vol + and power.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



When holding vol + and power the led goes purple, blinking green a few times, steady red and then off after that it boots the nintendo os.
Hope you haven't blown something. Test your console is charging. Put in the dock. See if dock light remains steady and you get a picture on TV.

Then check soldering to usb points
 

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@mattytrog: One last question (hope so):

Are these two points (for RCM_STRAp and the one next to it) i marked are connected to each other on pcb or not?

87428E54-CC07-465D-93BA-0BEE86E742D6.jpeg

I just ask because if they are connected soldering would be a lot easier. Tried it with multimeter and it seems as they are connected but the tips of the contacts are not very small so it could be the case it touches both at the same time so i thought its better i ask before trying it out.
 

mattytrog

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@mattytrog: One last question (hope so):

Are these two points (for RCM_STRAp and the one next to it) i marked are connected to each other on pcb or not?

View attachment 149141

I just ask because if they are connected soldering would be a lot easier. Tried it with multimeter and it seems as they are connected but the tips of the contacts are not very small so it could be the case it touches both at the same time so i thought its better i ask before trying it out.


Yes. They are connected. If memory serves me correctly.
 
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