Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[lufeig]

What worries me the most is the braided core with multiple wires.


Thanks, I might have some of that laying around.

Concerning the multiple wires, you can hardly notice it. You melt it’s tip with the soldering iron, the exposed length is so short and it’s already tinned, so it acts like a single core wire.

 

[note9]

I used kynar 36 and worked fine.

where did you get Kynar 36awg?, all i see is 30awg.

would 30awg kynar work?

 

[Shrapn]

Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.

Damaged area:

Install/board pictures:

 

[sean222]

Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.

Damaged area:

Install/board pictures:

I had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in the two plugs in the middle of the big heat shield before you put the back cover on I hope it's that!

 

[backsaverhandle]

I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.

Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.

I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?

I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?

 

[Donnie-Burger]

I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.

Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1.

I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?

I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?

I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc. Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one. Dry real well and test.

 

[backsaverhandle]

I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc. Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one. Dry real well and test.

When I get it cleaned up and try to charge the battery, is there anywhere I can check for charge current? I'm getting 0V reading on the battery plug, so I want to make sure it actually charges when I get to that point

 

[Shrapn]

I had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in the two plugs in the middle of the big heat shield before you put the back cover on I hope it's that!

Thanks for the reply, I did make sure both were attached and checked continuity but it unfortunately is not the issue Is there anything I can check with a multimeter to help narrow it down?

 

[TheUnknownOne]

I am and highly recommend it.

It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too.

This is my OLED installation using it.

Are you using double sided adhesive to hold it in place? If so do you have a link for it on amazon?

 

[lufeig]

Are you using double sided adhesive to hold it in place? If so do you have a link for it on amazon?

The modchip, yes. It’s 3M branded, I can’t help your further because I got it from a local store, I live in Brazil.

 

[backsaverhandle]

I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc. Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one. Dry real well and test.

Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?

 

[TheUnknownOne]

The modchip, yes. It’s 3M branded, I can’t help your further because I got it from a local store, I live in Brazil.

Ordered some from Amazon with a bunch of other things, should arrive today.

 

[lufeig]

Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?

Get Hekate and Atmosphere properly configured. But it’s completely off topic in here.

 

[zal16]

The original SX core have the same 5v bug from spacecraft 1.0?
Because i have one and will put it on my Switch OLED

 

[lufeig]

The original SX core have the same 5v bug from spacecraft 1.0?
Because i have one and will put it on my Switch OLED

Update it to spacecraft 0.2

 

[zal16]

Update it to spacecraft 0.2

Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too

 

[FR0ZN]

Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too

Everything that is not running Spacecraft 0.2.0 has this bug.

 

[lufeig]

Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too

just think:

TX modchips were manufactured and coded way before Switch OLED even existed.

Then why would it have a patched firmware for OLED compatibility?

TL;DR: flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2

 

[zal16]

just think:

TX modchips were manufactured and coded way before Switch OLED even existed.

Then why would it have a patched firmware for OLED compatibility?

TL;DR: flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2

I understand now. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[lufeig]

Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!