Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Viktorsilva

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Guys I'm having a nightmare with an attempted oled install. I have now removed every wire and mosfet, but as soon as I attach the battery, the charging icon shows up and then I get this artifacts with buzzing sounds.
Some times I can make it to the menu, but it still stops working.
Any idea on how to solve this mess?


Hi

Did you try to do kamikaze on Dat0? Doing it will make very small tiny pieces of metal dancing around all the circuit board. Other guy add a similar problem (you can search in this Forum for his tread) and he found a litle piece of tin doing a short circuit on the video output connector. He remove it and saved his console .
Post automatically merged:

you can also use 30 awg single core wire to fix it better.
this is far the best Mosfet (with resistor in ) install i ever seen. Professional and exemplary work
 
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NetYaroze

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Can someone help me?

I have an oled switch with rp2040 clone. The switch sometimes starts in heckate, other times it doesn't but it tries to go in OFW, the word nintendo appears but then a black screen, and the picofly clone light is Fast yellow yellow- slow yellow. I have not found any information regarding these lights flashing like this.
also I can't go to OFW either from heckate or by pressing the + and - keys while starting the console. Help!
 

Viktorsilva

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Can someone help me?

I have an oled switch with rp2040 clone. The switch sometimes starts in heckate, other times it doesn't but it tries to go in OFW, the word nintendo appears but then a black screen, and the picofly clone light is Fast yellow yellow- slow yellow. I have not found any information regarding these lights flashing like this.
also I can't go to OFW either from heckate or by pressing the + and - keys while starting the console. Help!


is the Chip Picofly ? if yes, wich resistors are you using in Dat0, CMD and CLK ? It looks to me that you have a bad Dat0 adapter (wich flows the successfully boot) and when it fails, naturally, switch will try to boot into OFW. Post some Pics please. And by the way, did the sinthoms started immediately after the chip installation ?
 

NetYaroze

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is the Chip Picofly ? if yes, wich resistors are you using in Dat0, CMD and CLK ? It looks to me that you have a bad Dat0 adapter (wich flows the successfully boot) and when it fails, naturally, switch will try to boot into OFW. Post some Pics please. And by the way, did the sinthoms started immediately after the chip installation ?

The chip is this one

Edit1: yes, the sinthomps started immediately after chip installation.

When I start heckate for first time, I got a message regarding slow Emmc (I think, sorry for my memory)
 

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Viktorsilva

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i could bet that the problem is in the flex that you are using .I stopped using those exactually to prevent malfunction. You can find more users reporting malfunctions also due to the use of these cables. If you remove it and do a clean install, im shure you get you switch back.
Post automatically merged:

The chip is this one

Edit1: yes, the sinthomps started immediately after chip installation.

When I start heckate for first time, I got a message regarding slow Emmc (I think, sorry for my memory)
Ver fotografias recentes.jpeg


even when i have HWfly to install i reject the flex . Awg 30 is the best for me. I have been using it for over 20 years (since the Playtation Modchip)
 
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rull_bull

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Can someone help me?

I have an oled switch with rp2040 clone. The switch sometimes starts in heckate, other times it doesn't but it tries to go in OFW, the word nintendo appears but then a black screen, and the picofly clone light is Fast yellow yellow- slow yellow. I have not found any information regarding these lights flashing like this.
also I can't go to OFW either from heckate or by pressing the + and - keys while starting the console. Help!

The most common issue, replace resistors on cmd and dat0 to 100ohm. (On the modchip)
Then everything will work

Look here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/hwfly-shaped-picofly-boards-start-shipping-in-china.632179/page-8

Post #158
 
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Vigintiduo

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Hi

Did you try to do kamikaze on Dat0? Doing it will make very small tiny pieces of metal dancing around all the circuit board. Other guy add a similar problem (you can search in this Forum for his tread) and he found a litle piece of tin doing a short circuit on the video output connector. He remove it and saved his console .
This was a simple advice and yet very effective advice, thank you. Even though I thought I had cleaned the board nice enough, I tried to do more passes with ipa.
Now the Switch is not crashing anymore, but it's still showing the charging icon as soon as I attach the battery.
Does anyone have an idea of which area should I check on? USB port looks just fine and clean. Not sure if something else is wrong
 

Modi

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Hi All Modders!!
Does everyone want to be Pro modders these days? Is everyone doing Kamikaze in OLED now? Currently DAT0 flex make fine job!! error is less them 3 pcs of console back with error Picofly =*. on 100 pcs install.Use only RP2040 Tiny from WS ,make clen install.All works perfect console boot less them 3 cycles. I get now a lot of broken OLED with wrong make Kamikaze /dead!!
 

Hackerman_2137

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Hi All Modders!!
Does everyone want to be Pro modders these days? Is everyone doing Kamikaze in OLED now? Currently DAT0 flex make fine job!! error is less them 3 pcs of console back with error Picofly =*. on 100 pcs install.Use only RP2040 Tiny from WS ,make clen install.All works perfect console boot less them 3 cycles. I get now a lot of broken OLED with wrong make Kamikaze /dead!!
First, everyone does as much as their skills allow. Personally, I have done kamikaze and it works without the slightest problems. I had more problems with the DAT0 adapter, for me the best is a direct point-to-point connection, without an adapter.

A little note, use a good translator, or brush up on your English, because you write very vague, chaotic and incomprehensible. Cheers
 
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Viktorsilva

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i thing i kill my oled board. can someone help with D0 pointView attachment 418388




After :


IMG_5426.jpeg




Drill it a little bit more to expose Dat1 under layer and connect it to the cpu path way via. then I protected everything with solder Mask and go for Dat0 rebuild . Used low melting temperature solder paste and reflow it for a while until the solder grab into what's left of the via.Then just put a litle pice of copper wire and reflow it again. Success :)
1529645b-0c17-4762-a4dc-5ab91b2d70f2-jpeg.418960



Thanks to @psycho-neon and @jkyoho for their excellent advices and demonstration of knowledge.
Post automatically merged:

Hi All Modders!!
Does everyone want to be Pro modders these days? Is everyone doing Kamikaze in OLED now? Currently DAT0 flex make fine job!! error is less them 3 pcs of console back with error Picofly =*. on 100 pcs install.Use only RP2040 Tiny from WS ,make clen install.All works perfect console boot less them 3 cycles. I get now a lot of broken OLED with wrong make Kamikaze /dead!!
Hi

Can you post some pictures of those broken Oled´s on kamikae attempt ?
Post automatically merged:

First, everyone does as much as their skills allow. Personally, I have done kamikaze and it works without the slightest problems. I had more problems with the DAT0 adapter, for me the best is a direct point-to-point connection, without an adapter.

A little note, use a good translator, or brush up on your English, because you write very vague, chaotic and incomprehensible. Cheers
I make these my words
 
Last edited by Viktorsilva,

NetYaroze

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@Viktorsilva
This motherboard was successfully modified by me, but at some point, after a few hours of gaming, the touchscreen and right joycon stopped working.

So I disassembled the motherboard and when reassembling it something made contact (I put the metal protection back on the nand and it moved to that area making contact) and this chip in the image made white smoke. I think it doesn't work anymore.

Is there a way to see if this chip is still alive?
Anyway....This little chip What is it? I'm looking for it on aliexpress

A series of unfortunate events
photo_2024-02-09_16-32-55.jpg
 

Viktorsilva

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@Viktorsilva
This motherboard was successfully modified by me, but at some point, after a few hours of gaming, the touchscreen and right joycon stopped working.

So I disassembled the motherboard and when reassembling it something made contact (I put the metal protection back on the nand and it moved to that area making contact) and this chip in the image made white smoke. I think it doesn't work anymore.

Is there a way to see if this chip is still alive?
Anyway....This little chip What is it? I'm looking for it on aliexpress

A series of unfortunate eventsView attachment 419003


Hi

I'm sad to hear about your bad experience :( . That is not a chip .It´s a ceramic Capacitor . it is a component responsible for maintaining a balanced electrical voltage in an electrical circuit. Can you check with a multimeter in diode mode on both polarity to ground ? they don't tend to break down easily.
I'm a little confused. The short circuit occurred after the chip installation or when you dismantled the console to check if the touch screen was working incorrectly?

There have already been cases of users in this forum who recovered the touch screen function after removing the screen connector, cleaning the contacts and putting it back again. This connector is triky, be gentle.

It is now possible to install a modchip on OLED models without accessing the lower layer. Fewer components to disassemble = lower risk of breakdown.
 

NetYaroze

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it is a component responsible for maintaining a balanced electrical voltage in an electrical circuit. Can you check with a multimeter in diode mode on both polarity to ground ? they don't tend to break down easily.

Thank you for answering :)


I don't know how to carry out this measurement, I ask you to explain to me in detail how and in which points (even with a drawing) I have to use my multimeter.

Now that I know what the "ceramic capacitor" is, I found it on Aliexpress, but which one is the right one?

Another thing, I encouraged myself and tried to turn the switch back on even though it was damaged but I couldn't see anything on the screen at all. I know she's alive because the chip glitches. The screen remains totally black. I don't want there to be anything near this chip that has to do with the screen power supply perhaps?
Post automatically merged:

Hi

I'm sad to hear about your bad experience :( . That is not a chip .It´s a ceramic Capacitor . it is a component responsible for maintaining a balanced electrical voltage in an electrical circuit. Can you check with a multimeter in diode mode on both polarity to ground ? they don't tend to break down easily.
I'm a little confused. The short circuit occurred after the chip installation or when you dismantled the console to check if the touch screen was working incorrectly?

There have already been cases of users in this forum who recovered the touch screen function after removing the screen connector, cleaning the contacts and putting it back again. This connector is triky, be gentle.

It is now possible to install a modchip on OLED models without accessing the lower layer. Fewer components to disassemble = lower risk of breakdown.
when you dismantled the console to check if the touch screen was working incorrectly?
this one
Post automatically merged:

Hi

I'm sad to hear about your bad experience :( . That is not a chip .It´s a ceramic Capacitor . it is a component responsible for maintaining a balanced electrical voltage in an electrical circuit. Can you check with a multimeter in diode mode on both polarity to ground ? they don't tend to break down easily.
I'm a little confused. The short circuit occurred after the chip installation or when you dismantled the console to check if the touch screen was working incorrectly?

There have already been cases of users in this forum who recovered the touch screen function after removing the screen connector, cleaning the contacts and putting it back again. This connector is triky, be gentle.

It is now possible to install a modchip on OLED models without accessing the lower layer. Fewer components to disassemble = lower risk of breakdown.
It is now possible to install a modchip on OLED models without accessing the lower layer. Fewer components to disassemble = lower risk of breakdown.
KAMIKAZE METHOD?
 
Last edited by NetYaroze,

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Turn off the console. With the console turned off, hold down both volume buttons ((+) and (-)), and press the POWER Button to turn the console on. Be sure to keep the volume buttons held down until the Recovery Mode menu is displayed. Select “Restore Factoy Settings

Sadly I had tried that a couple of times but to no avail. First time I tried restoring a eMMC backup (which was a downgrade so it did not work because of the fuses), then I tried recovery mode. I’m really not sure what could be causing this. After I tried removing the flex cable and replaced the capacitors crashes seem to be even more frequent.
 
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Danook28

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Sadly I had tried that a couple of times but to no avail. First time I tried restoring a eMMC backup (which was a downgrade so it did not work because of the fuses), then I tried recovery mode. I’m really not sure what could be causing this. After I tried removing the flex cable and replaced the capacitors crashes seem to be even more frequent.
Brother are you sure you cover dat0 point with tape???? Are you read all point to chip after and befor. Yes or no
Are you add all flex to conector same factory. And clk point also cover with tape ???
 

Viktorsilva

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Thank you for answering :)


I don't know how to carry out this measurement, I ask you to explain to me in detail how and in which points (even with a drawing) I have to use my multimeter.

Now that I know what the "ceramic capacitor" is, I found it on Aliexpress, but which one is the right one?

Another thing, I encouraged myself and tried to turn the switch back on even though it was damaged but I couldn't see anything on the screen at all. I know she's alive because the chip glitches. The screen remains totally black. I don't want there to be anything near this chip that has to do with the screen power supply perhaps?
Post automatically merged:



this one
Post automatically merged:



KAMIKAZE METHOD?



So this is the component that you may have broken :

oled 4mh.PNG

a 4MH ceramic inductor\capacitor. Test it putting the red probe off you multimeter on one edge of the capacitor and the black probe on the other edge (in diode mode\continuity mode) and see if it´s bridged to ground. If it is, most probably is broken.
you can check in this video how to do a capacitor check:


The lcd models like V1, V2 and lite have a backlight circuit. But Oled screen have their own independent light sender, that´s why is called Oled (Organic Light-Emitting Diode). That said, im not shure if that component could influence the absence of light on the screen (probably yes). Have you tryed to remove completly the Modchip installation ?

Yes, Kamikaze is a good way to do a single layer (upper Layer) installation of the Modchip.You must read a bit until you anchieve all the knowledge to go for it. That´s what i did. There are many hardware gurus in this Forum (@deeps, @abal1000x ,@superxoi,@QuiTim, @rehius @jkyoho @Phantomas77 and many others ) i ´ve learned so many reading those guys post´s . Maybe they could give you some help .
Post automatically merged:

Tried to modify RP2040 Tiny to easier cable routing. Let's see how it goes once they arrived from jlcpcb.

View attachment 418895
it should be a great solution .Any idea on the final price for each ?
 
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