Hacking Hardware Switch OLED SkHynix with Picofly long boot-time

superfiege

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In my experience, glitch time is mostly related to the mosfet setup. I've tried all combinations of everything (mosfet on front, back, double or single, different wire thickness, wire length etc) and the setup that I find performs the best (tested across many switches) is 0.2mm thick wires attached like in the picture.

View attachment 425039
...performs better than the prepared flex-cables?
 

superfiege

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I would say "possibly". The flex cables come in varying quality, just like the modchips, unfortunately. Some are perfect and some are not.
I made very good performing experience with backside install (single mosfet) on switch lites (alt points of picofly-guide). So I dont need to open the apu-cover. On oleds I only used these flex-cables.
 

deeps

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I made very good performing experience with backside install (single mosfet) on switch lites (alt points of picofly-guide). So I dont need to open the apu-cover. On oleds I only used these flex-cables.

Yeah, I used to do back side as well, which usually works fine. But some switches tend to glitch slowly, or sometimes slowly, with back mosfet. On those switches I moved the mosfet to the APU and the issues went away - so now I just do APU directly instead.
 

Dk2022

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In my experience, glitch time is mostly related to the mosfet setup. I've tried all combinations of everything (mosfet on front, back, double or single, different wire thickness, wire length etc) and the setup that I find performs the best (tested across many switches) is 0.2mm thick wires attached like in the picture.

View attachment 425039
Do you use just one MOSFET in all installations?
 

Hayato213

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Hi there.
I installed a Picofly (Waveshare RP2040 tiny) on my Switch OLED with a SkHynix EMMC. Everthing works fine, but the startup procedure (payload-injection) sometimes is very long.
Im thinking about to swap to an Instinct-NX V6S but I like the Picofly more (because its open-source and a Raspberry).
What do you think, is it a good idea to change the chip or stay with the pico?

I got like instant glitch with Instinct NX V6 but I have a Samsung Emmc.
 

Dk2022

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yes. I've tried more than one on several occasions, it never makes anything better than a single one with proper wiring
Thanks a lot, man. Do you think there is any difference between using sp1 + sp2 or only sp1?
On my installations, I have only been using sp1.
 

deeps

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Thanks a lot, man. Do you think there is any difference between using sp1 + sp2 or only sp1?
On my installations, I have only been using sp1.

I've come across a few switches that wouldn't glitch with only one wire to cap/gnd. with two to each it worked. so now i do both sp1+sp2 just in case the switch won't glitch with just one. easier to spend an extra minute (often unnecessarily) adding an extra wire than move the chip and open apu cover back up again because it won't work with just one.

some people might say that two mosfets work better for them, but I believe it is the extra wires that make it work better, not the extra mosfet.
 
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psycho-neon

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I think I will try your advice and replace the flex cable by a single-mosfet-apu-double-wire installation.

You can use magnet or stripped single wire that runs on both sp1 and sp2 is enough. Deeps was correct regarding the single cap connection. Had issue with it failing after several boots of testing. The ground/source wire connect it as near the SoC chip as possible or use one the ground in the caps of SoC.
 

freso

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Messed the caps on the cpu can someone show me Wich caps can be swapped from rp2040 tiny ???
 

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psycho-neon

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Last edited by psycho-neon,
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freso

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Thank you actually the switch works fine I just want to change them with good ones it happened because I had the Error 2002-3539 that made me solder many times and finally I figured out it's related to Toshiba emmc and the solution is easy to boot into maintenance mode and make full formatting
 

bvang913

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Just did an OLED with SKHynix yesterday with single mosfet wired to the APU and Rp2040 Tiny. The first time powering up it just blinked blue for a very long time. So I held the power button down till it shut off, disconnected the battery then tried again. The next time it actually glitched, and seemed to get better with each power cycle.
 

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superfiege

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Just did an OLED with SKHynix yesterday with single mosfet wired to the APU and Rp2040 Tiny. The first time powering up it just blinked blue for a very long time. So I held the power button down till it shut off, disconnected the battery then tried again. The next time it actually glitched, and seemed to get better with each power cycle.
can you tell me how long glitching needs on your oled?
 

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