I've investigated a bit more into the defective unit, and found the following:
The shaft / axis on the defective unit doesn't move smoothly. There's a point where it finds resistance and stops, and needs a bit more pressure to resume movement:
I fixed it by sanding the edges:
This unit is showing a lot of different defects... quite unusual.
After sanding these edges I'm still getting resistance on the horizontal axis/movement, so I'm still comparing the pieces to the V1 sticks to try and understand what's happening.
The shaft / axis on the defective unit doesn't move smoothly. There's a point where it finds resistance and stops, and needs a bit more pressure to resume movement:
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I fixed it by sanding the edges:
This unit is showing a lot of different defects... quite unusual.
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After sanding these edges I'm still getting resistance on the horizontal axis/movement, so I'm still comparing the pieces to the V1 sticks to try and understand what's happening.
Last edited by Cajumjoe,
Hahahaha this defective product makes me feel a little bit ashamed
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Wait the items with kits. Wait in 3 days maybe.
Guess Who just get mail!:
tomorrow will be joy-con day
Just finish my left joy-con, was so easy to replace, and with the included sticker, no hole is seen:
sorry for the hair, I was about to replace a cover sticker for the plastic,
also as was the 4th or 6th time I disassemble my joy-con the ribbon of the side buttons get torn:
Luckily I have some spare on stock.
the stick assemble feels great a little bit sturdy than the original but I really like it that way.
Obviously just need to re-calibrate a little bit but no need of external magnet whatsoever just a regular calibration and all go smooth.
@AKNES, thanks a lot for all your help and encouragement on this thread.
tomorrow will be joy-con day
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Just finish my left joy-con, was so easy to replace, and with the included sticker, no hole is seen:
sorry for the hair, I was about to replace a cover sticker for the plastic,
also as was the 4th or 6th time I disassemble my joy-con the ribbon of the side buttons get torn:
Luckily I have some spare on stock.
the stick assemble feels great a little bit sturdy than the original but I really like it that way.
Obviously just need to re-calibrate a little bit but no need of external magnet whatsoever just a regular calibration and all go smooth.
@AKNES, thanks a lot for all your help and encouragement on this thread.
Last edited by impeeza,
Finally had a bit of time to get back into this.
I've been checking / comparing the axis / shaft parts and was unable to find any reason for the horizontal resistance.
I started swapping parts between housings, mixing V2 and V1 pieces, and ended up realizing it had to be the housing itself that was causing the resistance.
After comparing both, I found that the part where the center piece sits and moves, is rounder and slightly higher on the affected V2 unit, making it seem narrower.
The opposite slot, on the V1, seems rougher, but doesn't seem relevant as there was no resistance with that housing.
Next step: open an apparently good V2 unit and compare them.
Tested my final unit, with no noticeable issues - just needed some calibration, like they normally do.
I then opened a second V2 unit. This one was tested and had no movement issues.
Comparing this one with the first V2, the shaft piece for the horizontal slider doesn't have rounded corners.
There's no horizontal resistance in this one.
This one also has some very noticeable moulding defects, but thankfully in places that don't affect movement.
I still don't understand what was Gulikit's fix for the click and jump issue from V1... but I did notice there's some extra grease under the sliders... could that be the solution? The grease acts not only like a lubricant, but also helps stick the slider and the rail together? Seems like it.
These moulding defects need to be kept under control. In the wrong place these can cause several problems.
I've been checking / comparing the axis / shaft parts and was unable to find any reason for the horizontal resistance.
I started swapping parts between housings, mixing V2 and V1 pieces, and ended up realizing it had to be the housing itself that was causing the resistance.
After comparing both, I found that the part where the center piece sits and moves, is rounder and slightly higher on the affected V2 unit, making it seem narrower.
The opposite slot, on the V1, seems rougher, but doesn't seem relevant as there was no resistance with that housing.
Next step: open an apparently good V2 unit and compare them.
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Tested my final unit, with no noticeable issues - just needed some calibration, like they normally do.
I then opened a second V2 unit. This one was tested and had no movement issues.
Comparing this one with the first V2, the shaft piece for the horizontal slider doesn't have rounded corners.
There's no horizontal resistance in this one.
This one also has some very noticeable moulding defects, but thankfully in places that don't affect movement.
I still don't understand what was Gulikit's fix for the click and jump issue from V1... but I did notice there's some extra grease under the sliders... could that be the solution? The grease acts not only like a lubricant, but also helps stick the slider and the rail together? Seems like it.
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These moulding defects need to be kept under control. In the wrong place these can cause several problems.
Last edited by Cajumjoe,
Customers' satisfy is our first priority.
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When you posted these issues before, I also communicated to GuliKit at the same time, they will improve the assembly and other issues you found.
You said to fix the click and jump problems, GuliKit was modified on the mold, but I don’t know the specific details (I’m not an engineer, hahaha). Lubricant is available in every version.
In addition, I remember that the GuliKit engineer told me that the Click problem (when there is no jump) actually occurs probabilistically on the original joysitck. (I have not tried to verify this statement)
For us at AKNES, on the one hand, we will continue to let GuliKit find and improve all problems, big or small. On the other hand, we will also do a good job in after-sales service for customers who are troubled by product problems.
Last edited by AKNES,
Customers' satisfy is our first priority.
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When you posted these issues before, I also communicated to GuliKit at the same time, they will improve the assembly and other issues you found.
You said to fix the click and jump problems, GuliKit was modified on the mold, but I don’t know the specific details (I’m not an engineer, hahaha). Lubricant is available in every version.
In addition, I remember that the GuliKit engineer told me that the Click problem (when there is no jump) actually occurs probabilistically on the original joysitck. (I have not tried to verify this statement)
For us at AKNES, on the one hand, we will continue to let GuliKit find and improve all problems, big or small. On the other hand, we will also do a good job in after-sales service for customers who are troubled by product problems.
Clicking may indeed occur from the spring rings' movement, that doesn't cause the jump.
I don't remember lubricant in the rails and sliders of V1, only in the center piece / shaft / axis parts (but maybe I just didn't notice it or it was in smaller quantity). V1 also did seem to use a different grease, a blue one.
It is possible the fix was made in the housing (black "outside" case)... if the rails where the slider sits got slightly raised in moulding, that should work as a fix. I'll measure the housing depth to rail, to confirm this (soon).
Thanks for keeping in touch with the community. You are an example for what good customer support should be.
Yes, it is true that some customers now report occasional clicks, but no jump issues. If the customer minds, we will still choose to resend the product to the customer to help them get a better experience.
Yes, the color of the grease has changed.
Thank you very much for your in-depth dissection of the product, which is a kind improvement for us.
Measured housing depth on the vertical rail side and it seems the same... or around a 0.03mm, that can be caused by the tool being slightly at an angle - inconclusive. Compared the sliders and the shafts and they also seem the same.
I’d like to have a go at fixing my clicky jumpy sticks. Those who have fixed theirs, which of the methods do you think I’m least likely to screw up?
Did the Amazon team help you with the after-sales problem?
Ask your seller a change is on the manufacturer warranty
I think the best fix was using a the folded piece of teflon tape, as this didn't involve removing material and kept it smooth. For any of the fixes you need to be quite comfortable with handling very little pieces. Do it for science / practice, if you have free time, and don't mind breaking the sticks because you already got a replacement from support - but if you didn't ask for a replacement, then you should now - that's the correct "fix".
Right, other than a straight replacement, PTFE tape and a bit of lube on the sliders is the easiest (and cheapest) fix.
I did. Aknes was super about it and sent me non-jumpy sticks as a replacement right away, and didn’t ask me to return the jumpy ones. That’s why I’m willing to potentially destroy the jumpy ones. They’re just sitting in a drawer not being used, and I don’t want to use them as they currently are. Seems like a waste to not try to fix them, and if I break them, oh well.
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I hope I can! I’m getting old and my eyes aren’t what they used to be!! I was successfully able to replace the shells on two pairs of joycons with snazzy ExtremeRate shells along with the hall sticks. Hopefully it’s not too much harder than that.
Last edited by regnad,
You can give it a try if you want, if it has no clicky sound or damage you can probably keep it.
If you have any product issue we will full refund to you or a free replacement.
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