With AutoRCM you may come to a dead Switch if you ever turn it off and then by accident bump the power button (mine is pretty sensitive even though its still stiff/clicky).
You'll know if you try to load a payload and it doesnt do anything (just wont do anything if using the TX Dongle) or gets to like opening device id blah blah and just sits there. If that happens you can hold the power button for 30 sec (30 is just to be safe), then plug it back in. It will enter RCM but it will charge while sitting there. Should be able to get back into a OS in about 30 minutes (around 3(+/-1)% battery).
TX Users should also remember to charge their dongle if it's not working. They use a capacitor to store the energy required to work. It's fine, but it means they drain faster. So plug in your dongle first to charge it, then try it on the switch before reporting black screens about TX.
You'll know if you try to load a payload and it doesnt do anything (just wont do anything if using the TX Dongle) or gets to like opening device id blah blah and just sits there. If that happens you can hold the power button for 30 sec (30 is just to be safe), then plug it back in. It will enter RCM but it will charge while sitting there. Should be able to get back into a OS in about 30 minutes (around 3(+/-1)% battery).
TX Users should also remember to charge their dongle if it's not working. They use a capacitor to store the energy required to work. It's fine, but it means they drain faster. So plug in your dongle first to charge it, then try it on the switch before reporting black screens about TX.
Last edited by EclipseSin,
Safe from what? Battery desync issue is hekate and stuff, not autorcm.
AutoRCM doesn't really harm you if you're using payloads or TX, and it can be uninstalled/removed. Just makes the first few % charge slow if it dies, then it will quick charge again when booted up into an OS.
Last edited by EclipseSin,
This thread might be helpful to you if you're still unsure.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/is-autorcm-safe-whats-your-favorite-rcm-method.508897/
Any time.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/is-autorcm-safe-whats-your-favorite-rcm-method.508897/
Any time.
When it dies due to neglect or forgetting to plug in the charger while sleeping. If you plug in a dead switch it will fast charge. With AutoRCM/JigRCM it will slow charge. Obviously removing the Jig would allow it to fast charge, so you could be up and running faster. This is about the only difference.
Last edited by EclipseSin,
Yea... I actually pointed that out before anyone did any readings or Kate corrected herself... Just not the rate. Like I said then, I'll say now. It'd be stupid not to have a trickle charge. It may as well be an ISO for handheld devices.
Yea, it's part of the USB controller spec. People initially panicked because they wouldn't let it charge long enough.
There ya go then. I wasn't sure where it'd be located, I suppose that's as good a place as any. Haha.
It's true that a lot of these users probably haven't messed around with a device like this to know that though. It's probably more transparent with older phones that had shitty batteries -- slow charge until it can boot up.
PD is relatively new. People are just starting to notice it on USB 3.1 Devices.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#PD
Another good read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_Charge
It was a hassle when the switch came out to find an external power supply with proper PD spec at 20v.
Believe you/me, it's needed with that phat Switch batt.
Last edited by Mr. Wizard,
"Relative" being the word here.
I am just member the original Motorola Droid Android with like Android 2.2. IT had one of the shittiest batteries I can think of.
It has a charging screen if the battery is below 5% or something like that and wont boot. If the battery is
Pretty sure it was the original Motorol Droid anyway. Figured this was the same type of process.
Ediit: Changed the completely dry part, completely dry batteries are hit and miss to holding power. At least the way I'm using dry here.
Last edited by EclipseSin,
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