Laptop died: Meaning of front LED error code?

ciaomao

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Hi, I noticed that my biz laptop (Elitebook g7) did not charged via official HP external PSU, so I tried the same PSU with my private laptop (Elitebook g1).
I was distracted a moment, but when I came back, my private laptop was shut down. Now, when I attach the same PSU or another (which works perfect with a third laptop [same voltage/connector]), I see the orange LED for charging, but it never turns white, so the battery seems not to charge or not get full capacity. When I disconnect the PSU and try to start the laptop I see the error code from the video clip. Does anybody knows what it means? I cant find any hints for my old g1. I measured the PSU and it supplies the correct voltage. I tried a hard reset, but also no change. It doesnt boot, the screen is not turned on and I hear no fan. It looks like the PSU damaged both laptops. My private with the issue as as explained above and my biz doesnt charge anymore with the external PSU, but boots, at least. I can also charge my biz laptop via USB-C dock.



Any help is appreciated :)
 
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fringle

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Hi, I noticed that my biz laptop (Elitebook g7) did not charged via official HP external PSU, so I tried the same PSU with my private laptop (Elitebook g1).
I was distracted a moment, but when I came back, my private laptop was shut down. Now, when I attach the same PSU or another (which works perfect with a third laptop [same voltage/connector]), I see the orange LED for charging, but it never turns white, so the battery seems not to charge or not get full capacity. When I disconnect the PSU and try to start the laptop I see the error code from the video clip. Does anybody knows what it means? I cant find any hints for my old g1. I measured the PSU and it supplies the correct voltage. I tried a hard reset, but also no change. It doesnt boot, the screen is not turned on and I hear no fan. It looks like the PSU damaged both laptops. My private with the issue as as explained above and my biz doesnt charge anymore with the external PSU, but boots, at least. I can also charge my biz laptop via USB-C dock.


View attachment 343691
Any help is appreciated :)
This may be useful if you haven't read it yet.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/ish_1997719-1528356-16

If none of this works you may need to contact support. I suspect the battery is of the non-removable type but maybe try the first option first. To do a power reset with non-removable battery. It seems with AC plugged in you just need to remove all external devices and hold the power button for 15 seconds. But as I said if that's not useful you may need to contact hp.
 
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ciaomao

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This may be useful if you haven't read it yet.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/ish_1997719-1528356-16

If none of this works you may need to contact support. I suspect the battery is of the non-removable type but maybe try the first option first. To do a power reset with non-removable battery. It seems with AC plugged in you just need to remove all external devices and hold the power button for 15 seconds. But as I said if that's not useful you may need to contact hp.
thanks for your feedback! Unfortunately this page explains the caps lock error codes, not the ones from the front LEDs. My battery is removable, but the hard reset did not help. My laptop is very old and out of warranty, but maybe HP is still willing to give me some hints.
 
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fringle

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thanks for your feedback! Unfortunately this page explains the caps lock error codes, not the ones from the front LEDs. My battery is removable, but the hard reset. My laptop is very old and out of warranty, but maybe HP is still willing to give me some hints.
No problem. I did find this which may indicate that the battery has died completely due to an incompatible charger.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/595708/Hp-Elitebook-840-G1.html?page=28#manual

For blinking amber:
Blinking amber: A battery that is the only
available power source has reached a low battery
level. When the battery reaches a critical battery
level, the battery light begins blinking rapidly.

There was also this one but it really didn't provide any useful information.
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Noteb...k-840-G1-LED-Error-Codes-meaning/td-p/7598502

Does it work if you connect it to the original power adapter with the battery removed? I know some laptops won't even turn on without a battery so this may not be an option for you. If not it could be that the other power adapter is of a higher amperage and sent too much current through the motherboard and fried one of the circuits.
 
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ciaomao

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Does it work if you connect it to the original power adapter with the battery removed? I know some laptops won't even turn on without a battery so this may not be an option for you. If not it could be that the other power adapter is of a higher amperage and sent too much current through the motherboard and fried one of the circuits.
With AC and battery attached it doesnt boot at all, only the Amber LED is on, without blinking. No error code
Taken from your link:
Amber: The computer is connected to external
power and the battery is charged from 0 to 90
percent.


Without AC but battery I see the error code from my clip
With AC but no battery I also the same error code

The max current output is not relevant as long as it supplies enough juice. The voltage is critical. But as it seems both of my laptops got damaged in regards of power and both used the same PSU I can imagine the PSU is responsible even if I saw 19.5V (correct output). Maybe a voltage hike, only visible on Oscilloscope or with load.
 
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fringle

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With AC and battery attached it doesnt boot at all, only the Amber LED is on, without blinking. No error code
Taken from your link:
Amber: The computer is connected to external
power and the battery is charged from 0 to 90
percent.


Without AC but battery I see the error code from my clip
With AC but no battery I also the same error code

The max current output is not relevant as long as it supplies enough juice. The voltage is critical. But as it seems both of my laptops got damaged in regards of power and both used the same PSU I can imagine the PSU is responsible even if I saw 19.5V (correct output). Maybe a voltage hike, only visible on Oscilloscope or with load.
Too much current can kill components such as fuses. That's why fuses exist they are rated for amps not rated for voltage. If they get over loaded with current they will pop so as to not fry the rest of the circuit. Too much current can be just as dangerous if not more dangerous then too much voltage.
 

JaapDaniels

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Too much current can kill components such as fuses. That's why fuses exist they are rated for amps not rated for voltage. If they get over loaded with current they will pop so as to not fry the rest of the circuit. Too much current can be just as dangerous if not more dangerous then too much voltage.
There is max current and used current, a power supply has a maximim current, the device is the user of the current.
The power supply current should never pop the fuses, the device behind it does for the required current (or used current) is what burns a fuse.
The only things that is exception to this law are leds when there is no resistor applied (it's almost a short circuit without one), and coils if no capasitor corrects the phase shift.
Both situations mean there is a design flauw in the design of the de device.
and technically it's not fully true, that the current is the only factor, it's power over the fuse that burns it.. it's like a thin wire, the more power goes over the wire the more current it exchanges with heat, if the wire gets over heated it melts.
a fuse has a max volts and current, there is too much voltage supplied but normal current it will slowly burn, if however the there is too much current moving over the fuse but voltage is normall it''ll burn fast.
do note that when a fuse is burnt there is no circuit anymore so the device should not get any charge anymore.
 
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Hayato213

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Too much current can kill components such as fuses. That's why fuses exist they are rated for amps not rated for voltage. If they get over loaded with current they will pop so as to not fry the rest of the circuit. Too much current can be just as dangerous if not more dangerous then too much voltage.

The laptop should only draw the amount of current it need, so that isn't the issue.
 
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JaapDaniels

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I agree unless the adapter itself is damaged and the transformer is outputting more than it should. If it damaged two laptops though so I'd say there's something wrong with it.
well, if the laptop is using USB-c charge, it could be the communication chip in the charger be burned, the laptop might not be damaged but gets only 5V for the communication chip can't negotiate the needed voltage (most likely around 19 or 20V.
usb-c is notalways using universal standard charging, a quick charger can use 4 standards: USB-c pd (open source), quick charge (most android devices use this), oppo charge (oppo and oneplus use this), and smart charge (apple uses this).
while the cable is the same, the charger might not have said technology built in.
 

Hayato213

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well, if the laptop is using USB-c charge, it could be the communication chip in the charger be burned, the laptop might not be damaged but gets only 5V for the communication chip can't negotiate the needed voltage (most likely around 19 or 20V.
usb-c is notalways using universal standard charging, a quick charger can use 4 standards: USB-c pd (open source), quick charge (most android devices use this), oppo charge (oppo and oneplus use this), and smart charge (apple uses this).
while the cable is the same, the charger might not have said technology built in.

The laptops he listed use the standard HP charger
 

JaapDaniels

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disconnect the battery and use only the chjarger
for the battery can be shorted and draining too much energy (now you know if the charger is failing).
charge the battery by a just higher voltage and current it should supply in use when fully charged for about 60 minutes disconnected from the laptop,reconnect the battery and check if this alters the behaviour (now you know if the battery still works).
if both don't help, you shouldcheck for burn marks, corrosion marks, fishy smelling parts (meaning a collapsed capasitor), broken parts on the mainboard. i should check the area around the powe connectors first.
With a heat cameara you can scan for short circuits for this generates heat while active.
 

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