Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

juanvlc

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Dat0 pcb is good? Try to update fw
I can't. Picotoolbox don't recognise the firmware, when try to update it says flashed, reboot. When done it resets but same logo, I understand it's a old firmware w/o SD update feature.
Attention please: Tried to connect tru usb, up word facing up just in case, and hot and smoke. I just unplugged fast, everything seems to be fine.
So I don't know how to update, but it just work.
Dat0 that comes in the pack isn't the good 4 anchors one
 
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lightninjay

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Ok, thank's :D
Soldering only point SP1 in flex? Or SP1 and SP2 point?
preferably you should solder both points for maximum redundancy of the glitch timings to the APU, but theoretically you could get away with one? Not sure why you would though, considering the cables are designed to be soldered to both points.
 

Marsowaty

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preferably you should solder both points for maximum redundancy of the glitch timings to the APU, but theoretically you could get away with one? Not sure why you would though, considering the cables are designed to be soldered to both points.
This is my first time soldering micro electronics :( I saw in one pictures, soldering only one point. Okey, soldering both points tomorrow and resistors 47 ohm :P
 

angelC992

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First of all, sorry if this has already been asked and answered.

A week ago, I managed to get to the No SD screen but closing the console broke something.

The technician has fixed it and he will install the Picofly. I have seen the guide in PDF and I have doubts:

At RST and alternate 3v3 points, do you have to bridge both pads? My installation was in the 3v3 capacitor and only in one pad of the reset point. What is the most appropriate?

If on the No SD screen I press volume - or + does OFW start?

Thank you so much.
 

lightninjay

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First of all, sorry if this has already been asked and answered.

A week ago, I managed to get to the No SD screen but closing the console broke something.

The technician has fixed it and he will install the Picofly. I have seen the guide in PDF and I have doubts:

At RST and alternate 3v3 points, do you have to bridge both pads? My installation was in the 3v3 capacitor and only in one pad of the reset point. What is the most appropriate?

If on the No SD screen I press volume - or + does OFW start?

Thank you so much.
If it's inside of the circle in the guide, then it's all the same point. A simple continuity check with a multimeter would confirm this, but I also went through the trouble of using online photos of boards that have been shaved down to show the trace routes. Every point that has "two pads" are really two pads that are joined I.E. they are the same pad.

It is purely up to preference as to whether you solder to one or both points.

On the NO SD screen, you press both Vol + and Vol - AT THE SAME TIME to boot to OFW.
 
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lightninjay

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What toolbox?

There is fusee.bin, hekate.bin and lockpick.bin
Find it in Rehius' post here, or at the Github that has been hosting the firmware files
- show firmware information
- update firmware from SD card (place update.bin into the root folder)
- rollback to the backup firmware slot
- reset learning statistics
- dump / write sdloader
 

angelC992

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If it's inside of the circle in the guide, then it's all the same point. A simple continuity check with a multimeter would confirm this, but I also went through the trouble of using online photos of boards that have been shaved down to show the trace routes. Every point that has "two pads" are really two pads that are joined I.E. they are the same pad.

It is purely up to preference as to whether you solder to one or both points.

On the NO SD screen, you press both Vol + and Vol - AT THE SAME TIME to boot to OFW.
Oh, ok. Thank you so much.
 
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juanvlc

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looks like wrong cable orientation. you should check GND / 5v before plugging in the USB.

you can always swap the flash itself with the preflashed one using a hot air gun
you was completelly right. Connected with the UV1-7 facing up and boot button pressed im abled to updete to last firmware.
Right pin is gnd
Thanks again
 

RiotRetroGaming

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You need to rename it to .bin (don't keep PDF on the end) and place it in /bootloader/payloads on your SD card.

ok sweet, it worked, for some reason I have around 3 folders with payloads in. One inside the switch folder, one lot in root and then that folder... weird.
Cheers bud, another lesson learned! lol
 

lightninjay

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ok sweet, it worked, for some reason I have around 3 folders with payloads in. One inside the switch folder, one lot in root and then that folder... weird.
Cheers bud, another lesson learned! lol
No worries, sounds like you should potentially clean up your SD card though, as those other payload folders would not be naturally accessible from Hekate (they are likely sideload payload folders for booting payloads from Atmosphere payload injector or other injector)
 

Phantomas77

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Hey guys, i have a Nintendo Switch Lite. So I bought rp2040-one and adapter lite CPU.
I bridged pin 3 and 4 in adapter lite that's right? I have a question, soldering only point SP1 or SP1 and SP2?

View attachment 365739
i have only wire RJ45, this is small.. :rofl: Orange wire connect to pinout 15 Rp2040?
I don't have 47 Ohm today, so buy tomorrow :shy:

View attachment 365740
I would stay away from RJ45, too stiff and high diameter for these mods, really high risk on ripping of the vias.
Learned it while doing my first PS2 modchip install back in 2006, almost fkd my friend's console. Buy some AWG36 or enamel, use AWG30 for power.
 

detilmalala

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hello i have a v2 that i test with mosfet and cpu flex and it always gives yellow light but the dat 0 is ok i measured the value of the board and on the chip and it is the same the firmware is 2.64

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

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