Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[sheggy012]

but for goods sake please do not do this on costumers board , learn how to reball and do it the proper way.
ur damaging other peoples boards sure it might work but still.

I am not sure what I would prefer. At least there is much less thermal stress at this point. The wire can also be much shorter. When soldering BGA you just never know if there is a short at one point. The metal plates must also be damaged to get to CLK, so I don't see much advantages compared to the removal of such little material.

 

[Dee87]

I am not sure what I would prefer. At least there is much less thermal stress at this point. The wire can also be much shorter. When soldering BGA you just never know if there is a short at one point. The metal plates must also be damaged to get to CLK, so I don't see much difference to the removal of such little material.

there is no thermal stress if u do it properly ive donw ove 40+ oleds and reballed them all and never had an issue. its the same process as when the switches where made.

even when u reinstall tha emmc u even use less temp then when u have to remove it.

well u cant really compare it to romoving a piece of shield , but like i said i would never do stuff like this to a customers boards just to save some time.

its like when a hose in ur car is broken and u bring it to me and its just easier for me to drill a hole in ur frame so i dont have to take half of the car apart to replace it u probally would be happy eather correct?
even if u dont see it Xd

 

[Weird-Parking356]

First boot?

EDIT: Oh no, this isn't good.

https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Title_list - USB

yes first boot

Post automatically merged: Jul 21, 2023

check your m92t36

and what s that?

 

[jkyoho]

and what s that?

Can you take picture where you take 3.3v?

 

[sheggy012]

its like when a hose in ur car is broken and u bring it to me and its just easier for me to drill a hole in ur frame so i dont have to take half of the car apart to replace it u probally would be happy eather correct?
even if u dont see it Xd

I do not replace some "stock" broken part in in the car. If I ask you for a 200 Horse Power upgrade and you drill a tiny little hole for it, where I never will get to see it, then go ahead ;-) . But next time I'll definitely try BGA. Because I suspect it will be much faster than this surgery.

 

[Weird-Parking356]

Can you take picture where you take 3.3v?

let me try

 

[Ragna666]

That is PLUMBERS flux. Highly corrosive to printed circuit boards. You shouldn't be putting that any where near a switch or any electronic device. It's meant to be washed off with turpentine to neutralise it.

Fck.
If i clean it with turpentine that won't damage anything on the pcb or solder points?

 

[Hadobedo]

see the thing is they reproduce the Idea from someone else and make good money off of it so they should also do the support for it correct?

they even sent u a board with depriciated firmware that has issue and they dont even care.

hwfly sold chips for 150 production maybe 5$ for them the only reason the prices are so cheap now is cause of the community that made this possible for free and other people make money off of it.

if u support them by buying there chips u should also ask them for support with ur issue correct ?

i mean the chip and all is the same sure but its just the point , u ask the community who created the chip (not me) for help when u buy a chip preflashed with community made firmware from someone who probally have already made 50,000+ from selling a idea from a community who did all the work to make this all possible.

thats why i think its a bit rude to ask here for help best thing would be is to create your guys own "HwflY rp2040 chip " thread

I understand your frustration with the existence and use of these chips and I agree. I have a few RP2040 dev boards lying around so I will prepare and install my own RP2040 board soon then, just need to get resistors. If the LED error still happens after replacement I will ask for support here hopefully without getting dogpiled for using h***y in the past lol. At the very least it came with the MOSFET flex

Here's a question. Why don't you find a hwfly thread and ask your question over there. Just go back and amongst the pages of this thread. Countless times we have said we don't support hwfly. Countless. So why have you come here seeking help from a place that has stated....no hwfly!?

Honest mistake, it isn't stated anywhere obvious at the start of the thread (likely b/c this was a speculation-turned-support thread from what I can tell) and I didn't explicitly see anyone say those boards are not supported when reading through earlier, I was not aware when writing, sorry!

once i replace the chip w/ my own rp2040 & use thicker AWG i will try to remember to report back with results

 

[Weird-Parking356]

let me try

hi , this an update , I jsut pull the old trick of blow the cartridge with my usb port and my switch start normally , i seriously have no idea of what just happen

Post automatically merged: Jul 21, 2023

hi , this an update , I jsut pull the old trick of blow the cartridge with my usb port and my switch start normally , i seriously have no idea of what just happen

never mind , just die again now

 

[Switxh]

Fck.
If i clean it with turpentine that won't damage anything on the pcb or solder points?

Turpentine would leave a residue which could cause problems like collecting dirt and debris under BGA components. What I would do is put it in an ultrasonic bath of deionised water with some appropriate PCB cleaning solution as you can't be sure the flux hasn't worked its way under various components where rinsing or brushing with alcohol won't be enough. If you don't have access to an ultra sonic bath then you could try some canned contact cleaner spray and use the long attachment to squirt contact cleaner under all the BGA chips.

Unfortunately residue from plumbers flux left on a circuit board is essentially a ticking time bomb. It has the ability to eat through the protective coating on the PCB and corrode the copper underneath due to the acidic contents.

 

[Ragna666]

Turpentine would leave a residue which could cause problems like collecting dirt and debris under BGA components. What I would do is put it in an ultrasonic bath of deionised water with some appropriate PCB cleaning solution as you can't be sure the flux hasn't worked its way under various components where rinsing or brushing with alcohol won't be enough. If you don't have access to an ultra sonic bath then you could try some canned contact cleaner spray and use the long attachment to squirt contact cleaner under all the BGA chips.

Unfortunately residue from plumbers flux left on a circuit board is essentially a ticking time bomb. It has the ability to eat through the protective coating on the PCB and corrode the copper underneath due to the acidic contents.

What contact cleaner do you recommend?
And rma-223 flux would be good?

It done the sh*t again so i removed the dat0 adapter and it turns on fine now.
What adapter do you recommend?
This chinese something with a plus 3v3 point is sh*t as fck.
Or i just find someone to do a reball with a solder pad to dat0 point?

 

[Switxh]

What contact cleaner do you recommend?
And rma-223 flux would be good?

It done the sh*t again so i removed the dat0 adapter and it turns on fine now.
What adapter do you recommend?
This chinese something with a plus 3v3 point is sh*t as fck.
Or i just find someone to do a reball with a solder pad to dat0 point?

Any brand will do as long as it's sold as electrical contact cleaner and marketed as safe for sensitive electronics. The one I use is made by WD-40. And yes the RMA-223 flux is the correct type of flux. Non-corrosive, no clean, no acidic or resin contents.

As for the adapter the best fix is always getting a permanent dat0 install but if it's a personal console and you can't find someone to do it then I'm not sure what the safest adapter to use is to be honest. And if there is UV mask residue and or flux under the EMMC then you're going to have issues no matter what adapter unless it's properly cleaned.

 

[Blakejansen]

comeone man dont make it to easy for someone who isnt trying to find things on his own...............

I repaired the trace and console still isn't turning off. Both traces read at 450, but dat was reading at 350. Console will not turn on after removing dat adapter and fixing trace.

 

[abal1000x]

That is why i try to find alt point for mosfet. Modding near cpu have very high risk. Even for an experienced you need to focus when working on the cpu. But for someone love challenge go for it. For me low cost and low risk is always the answer.

 

[Blakejansen]

That is why i try to find alt point for mosfet. Modding near cpu have very high risk. Even for an experienced you need to focus when working on the cpu. But for someone love challenge go for it. For me low cost and low risk is always the answer.

I had personal problems when I was modding and I got distracted when cutting the shielding.

I don't have the technical knowledge to figure out why my switch isn't turning on, but my DAT point now reads at 330 when before it read at 650.

I don't remember making other mistakes besides the damage I did with the pliers. There is a chunk of my CPU missing....

After fixing the trace I now get a reading of 450. Two traces have damage and they both read at 450.

I was really happy with the mod job besides this part. I even practiced on a switch motherboard my friend gave me and I had no trouble cutting the shield.

What I did to fix the trace was using a knife to reveal copper on two different ends and then tinning a small wire to each side.

Reading went from OL to 450, but console still has no power.

 

[Switxh]

There is a chunk of my CPU missing....

I'd bet that's where the problem is. I saw a LinusTechTips video a few years ago where he accidentally dented the edge of the green PCB on an Intel desktop CPU and it actually killed it. If what your describing is a "chunk" missing from the edge of the CPU then it's probably dead and you're working on those traces in vein, sadly.

 

[Blakejansen]

I'd bet that's where the problem is. I saw a LinusTechTips video a few years ago where he accidentally dented the edge of the green PCB on an Intel desktop CPU and it actually killed it. If what your describing is a "chunk" missing from the edge of the CPU then it's probably dead and you're working on those traces in vein, sadly.

First time I tried to power It on the power cable wasn't connected properly. But not sure if that is what killed it or that chunk missing on the cpu.

That trace looks fixed because diode mode would not give a reading before I soldered that wire.

I didn't try fixing the other trace because the reading is the same 450 and I am not sure what the reading should be but now both traces read at 450.

I had no room to work with and I have never repaired a trace before.

Decided to scratch off solder mask from those two points to bridge the connection.

That said the switch is still dead.

My install was passable and in the end I bricked because I wasn't careful enough with pliers.

What are your thoughts of my CPU after seeing this picture?

 

[Switxh]

First time I tried to power It on the power cable wasn't connected properly. But not sure if that is what killed it or that chunk missing on the cpu.

That trace looks fixed because diode mode would not give a reading before I soldered that wire.

I didn't try fixing the other trace because the reading is the same 450 and I am not sure what the reading should be but now both traces read at 450.

I had no room to work with and I have never repaired a trace before.

Decided to scratch off solder mask from those two points to bridge the connection.

That said the switch is still dead.

My install was passable and in the end I bricked because I wasn't careful enough with pliers.

What are your thoughts of my CPU after seeing this picture?

I'd say that's enough damage to kill the CPU. The dent that I have seen kill an intel CPU was much smaller and more superficial looking. It looks like layers are exposed on the CPU.

 

[Dee87]

Th

I understand your frustration with the existence and use of these chips and I agree. I have a few RP2040 dev boards lying around so I will prepare and install my own RP2040 board soon then, just need to get resistors. If the LED error still happens after replacement I will ask for support here hopefully without getting dogpiled for using h***y in the past lol. At the very least it came with the MOSFET flex


Honest mistake, it isn't stated anywhere obvious at the start of the thread (likely b/c this was a speculation-turned-support thread from what I can tell) and I didn't explicitly see anyone say those boards are not supported when reading through earlier, I was not aware when writing, sorry!

once i replace the chip w/ my own rp2040 & use thicker AWG i will try to remember to report back with results

That sound like a plan, 0.1mm is enough for the rp2040

First time I tried to power It on the power cable wasn't connected properly. But not sure if that is what killed it or that chunk missing on the cpu.

That trace looks fixed because diode mode would not give a reading before I soldered that wire.

I didn't try fixing the other trace because the reading is the same 450 and I am not sure what the reading should be but now both traces read at 450.

I had no room to work with and I have never repaired a trace before.

Decided to scratch off solder mask from those two points to bridge the connection.

That said the switch is still dead.

My install was passable and in the end I bricked because I wasn't careful enough with pliers.

What are your thoughts of my CPU after seeing this picture?

its really hard to tell cause its hard to see what it actualy is but is that a peace of copper layer that was taken out of the apu ?

if thats the case then i would say go buy u a new one since its only disposable money anyway like u stated

 

[Blakejansen]

Th

That sound like a plan, 0.1mm is enough for the rp2040

its really hard to tell cause its hard to see what it actualy is but is that a peace of copper layer that was taken out of the apu ?

if thats the case then i would say go buy u a new one since its only disposable money anyway like u stated

I circled the CPU damage above to make sure we are taking about the same thing.

Does this look like the CPU is damaged beyond repair?