Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[BlueBeans]

I'm glad for your reply. I was satisfied when I heard that. My mod is just getting started. I want to acquire skills and knowledge little by little and eventually become successful. thank you!
"use proper tip and solder"


I'm glad for your reply. surely. Looks like my work was too bad. I would try removing the flex cable and using wire or a new flex cable if possible.
Also, congratulations on modifying the MOSFET!

Post automatically merged: Dec 19, 2023

Hello. I'm currently redoing the picofly flex cable. Can someone please tell me the multimeter's diode mode measurements for Switch Lite's A, B, C, and D points? Thanks in advance!

Thank you! It’s been a long process trying to figure out that I got a bad batch of mosfets.

In terms of your readings I always want me readings between 0.5 to 0.9. That would be on DAT0, CMD, and CLK. According to your flex cable that would be points A, C, and D.

Make sure that you are using flux. It will help your solder flow and make a much cleaner install.

Post automatically merged: Dec 19, 2023

Any One know why nintendo switch oled with good reading dat0 adapter from. 0.696 V to 0.701v only black secreen this is The 3 oled with same problem but all console working fine. The adapter is not bad at all. I can add pic. Thanks

Post install. Check for shorts. Is the pico flashing an error? Also, check the lcd fpc connector. Make sure you didn’t bend any pins reinstalling the cable.

 

[deeps]

@abal1000x's reball adapter vs the aliexpress one price 0.3€ each vs 7€ each
a big plus that I see with abal1000x's variant is that all bga153 points are present, which means no loose solder balls to take care of after reballing. saves a few minutes. Thank you @abal1000x

 

[Myst0gan]

I'm trying to mod mzy first OLED, is the dat0 flex supposed to be like that?? And... What should I read on diode mode??

Edit: first time I used to get OL, now I get like .473V, I'm guessing it's fine, right or I made contact with a different point??

 

[deeps]

I'm trying to mod mzy first OLED, is the dat0 flex supposed to be like that?? And... What should I read on diode mode??

Edit: first time I used to get OL, now I get like .473V, I'm guessing it's fine, right or I made contact with a different point??

bruh. the white line on the flex is supposed to align with the edge of the emmc. the flex slides in a few mm under the emmc

 

[QuiTim]

I'm trying to mod mzy first OLED, is the dat0 flex supposed to be like that?? And... What should I read on diode mode??

The orientation is good. Make sure to put slight pressure on the adapter (with tweezers, pushing forward on to adapter) while you solder anchor points.
Readings depend on the dmm and which color probe you put where but 0.4 to 0.8 should be ok
Edit: upon seeing deeps replay above (I understand his skepticism ) I hope that you know that the adapter goes under emmc right? and you were asking for alignment

 

[toribird]

Thank you! It’s been a long process trying to figure out that I got a bad batch of mosfets.

In terms of your readings I always want me readings between 0.5 to 0.9. That would be on DAT0, CMD, and CLK. According to your flex cable that would be points A, C, and D.

Make sure that you are using flux. It will help your solder flow and make a much cleaner install.

Post automatically merged: Dec 19, 2023

Post install. Check for shorts. Is the pico flashing an error? Also, check the lcd fpc connector. Make sure you didn’t bend any pins reinstalling the cable.

I think it's a great technique! Thank you again for letting me know the measurements!
May I ask you some more questions?
The measured values of points A, C, and D on my Switch Lite are around 750. However, point B cannot be measured. do you think this is normal?

I tried re-soldering the flex cable, but I still get the error [=*D0 is not connected]. The values at points A, C, and D look normal. I would be happy if you could give me any hints.
There are no plans at the moment, but I would like to try again using wire instead of flex cable this time.
Thank you all from the bottom of my heart!

 

[Myst0gan]

The orientation is good. Make sure to put slight pressure on the adapter (with tweezers, pushing forward on to adapter) while you solder anchor points.
Readings depend on the dmm and which color probe you put where but 0.4 to 0.8 should be ok
Edit: upon seeing deeps replay above (I understand his skepticism ) I hope that you know that the adapter goes under emmc right? and you were asking for alignment

I know the line needs to align and go under the mmc. My question was about the U form from the flex. It hides completely, I thought side flexes were supposed to remain outside I put a lil pressure, it doesn't go any further. I hope that I've made contact with the correct solder joint .
I wish there were another dat0 point to check with the continuity mode

 

[QuiTim]

I know the line needs to align and go under the mmc. My question was about the U form from the flex. It hides completely, I thought side flexes were supposed to remain outside I put a lil pressure, it doesn't go any further. I hope that I've made contact with the correct solder joint .
I wish there were another dat0 point to check with the continuity mode

You got a model without side anchors so the form is ok. They come in all shape and sizes
After you solder the 2 anchor points test the continuity with ground in diode mode, you should get something between .4 to .8
If there was another dat0 point we wouldn't be needing this adapter at all

 

[toribird]

This may be a bit of a silly question.
I don't put a single screw back in to check picofly's operation. This means the picofly board is suspended in the air by the flex cable. The picofly board's ground is not connected. Is there any problem with this?
Also, how far do you put the parts back when checking operation?

(Earthing by screw)

 

[QuiTim]

This may be a bit of a silly question.
I don't put a single screw back in to check picofly's operation. This means the picofly board is suspended in the air by the flex cable. The picofly board's ground is not connected. Is there any problem with this?
Also, how far do you put the parts back when checking operation?

(Earthing by screw)

What kind of board are you using??? Always connect the ground, that is the first thing you should connect.

 

[BlueBeans]

Aaaaaand a first successful rear single mosfet install on an OLED.

 

[Purple_Heart]

Aaaaaand a first successful rear single mosfet install on an OLED.

the no sd screen looks way better than mine from the hwfly ...a weird grey bg with a rocket and a huge red text which says NO SD

 

[superxoi]

Aaaaaand a first successful rear single mosfet install on an OLED.

Glad for your successful. Back mosfet is more easier than in the front because we have more space to work.

Post automatically merged: Dec 20, 2023

This may be a bit of a silly question.
I don't put a single screw back in to check picofly's operation. This means the picofly board is suspended in the air by the flex cable. The picofly board's ground is not connected. Is there any problem with this?
Also, how far do you put the parts back when checking operation?

(Earthing by screw)

If you meant the clone hwfly rp2040 so you don't have to worry about that. I used to put nothing on it even when i closed the shield. The clone is tiny enough not to touch anything.

Post automatically merged: Dec 20, 2023

@abal1000x's reball adapter vs the aliexpress one price 0.3€ each vs 7€ each
a big plus that I see with abal1000x's variant is that all bga153 points are present, which means no loose solder balls to take care of after reballing. saves a few minutes. Thank you @abal1000x

Can you give me an aliexpress link for this product. Thank in advance.

 

[BlueBeans]

Can you give me an aliexpress link for this product. Thank in advance.

Here’s the gerber file. You can order some from JLC PCB

https://github.com/abal1000x/emmc_adapter/releases/tag/v2.0.0

 

[superxoi]

Here’s the gerber file. You can order some from JLC PCB

https://github.com/abal1000x/emmc_adapter/releases/tag/v2.0.0

I'm in SEasia i cannot oder from jlcpcb. I will find someone who can print it then. Thank you.

 

[abal1000x]

I'm in SEasia i cannot oder from jlcpcb. I will find someone who can print it then. Thank you.

In their sites, stated that they also deliver to SEA.

JLCPCB are chinese similar to aliexpress, SEA should be able to order from it, since its close enough geographically.

 

[superxoi]

In their sites, stated that they also deliver to SEA.
View attachment 409618

JLCPCB are chinese similar to aliexpress, SEA should be able to order from it, since its close enough geographically.

Yeah. I was a little confused when they showed only western countries on their list of shipping. But when i typed my country they appeared as well. The price for 20 pcs is a little cheaper than i expected even cheaper than the yellow data0 adapter.

 

[deeps]

Yeah. I was a little confused when they showed only western countries on their list of shipping. But when i typed my country they appeared as well. The price for 20 pcs is a little cheaper than i expected even cheaper than the yellow data0 adapter.

thickness should be 0.6mm, otherwise it won't fit under the emmc cover

 

[Myst0gan]

Aaaaaand a first successful rear single mosfet install on an OLED.

Are you using awg30??

Does anyone know where to get the hwfly version of rp2040?? The store disappeared from ali

 

[BlueBeans]

thickness should be 0.6mm, otherwise it won't fit under the emmc cover

I meant to put that