Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Mr Skinner]

T
Try making dat0 and cmd line resistor to 100ohm. Happens to me when I was modding 1 switch, the device boots to hekate but never on ofw/emummc. I changed the resistors and problem sovled

Is it samsung emmc variant?

Post automatically merged: Feb 1, 2024

At 400c the you can take the unleaded emmc off in 10-12s. So the 1' preheating is meaningless. Just do the heating quick friend. The components don't like suffering too much.

wich resistors did you installed on CMD,CLK and DAT0 ?

Solved
Thx for the tips. Ive checked all of my soldering work, all ok. The real problem are the mosfets (IRFHS8342 MOSFET). i use the double mospfet mount, and for any reason ( nothing shorted, good soldering and etc) the mosfets are getting fireeee ( yes, smoke and high tempeerature), the kapton tape partially melted. I guess one of these mosphets are bad...

Replaced everthing, new IRFHS8342 MOSFETs, new wires, new soldering in CPU capacitors. All worked fine. The boot time are a bit slow . ive replaced the resistors 47ohm for 100ohm, and the boot time is slow yet, but consistent.

Funfact: The hekate helped detect the problem. The Battery benchmark marked problems in Capacity Design (1000mah when the correct is 4000mah>). The problem was the mosphets shorting (?) and draining the Battery.

 

[GelmerB]

Is one quick green flash okay while flashing pico chip? Or do i need to bridge it to get the red flash still?

Also, is 40AWG magnet wire too thin or fine for V2/OLED installation?

 

[MoeXzl]

Is one quick green flash okay while flashing pico chip?

It's perfectly fine. This has now been asked several times here.

Also, is 40AWG magnet wire too thin or fine for V2/OLED installation?

You can take it. Personally, I use AWG36. For AWG40 I would perhaps prefer 3.3V and ground thicker cables.

 

[GelmerB]

It's perfectly fine. This has now been asked several times here.



You can take it. Personally, I use AWG36. For AWG40 I would perhaps prefer 3.3V and ground thicker cables.

Alright, so 30AWG kynar for 3.3v and ground is good?

 

[_kedo_]

I have the same problem on a Lite as well. Sadly my problem wasn't the MAX77812 as I've replaced it but still have the blue screen.

hi, is your original MAX77812 had any defects visible under the microscope? Also make sure your new IC has no defects and sit on the board properly. Is any voltages present on its phases when you see the blue screen? This IC is vital for SDRAM I/O, so its should be enabled on early stages when loading fw.
As we already know to show 'No SD CARD' screen SDRAM is not required(because i saw this screen with the chipped MAX77812). Also SDRAM is not required to load payload.bin from SD card(because https://github.com/lulle2007200/ums-loader also works just fine).

is OFW on your Lite was working fine before you installed picofly?

@superxoi
i still don't understand how you can corrupt emmc data installing picofly? Picofly uses one data line, all the data transferred in packets with appropriate CRC. Any garbage on data line should be detected and discarded(in theory of course). Or maybe something happens in next stages after picofly ends his job

 

[superxoi]

hi, is your original MAX77812 had any defects visible under the microscope? Also make sure your new IC has no defects and sit on the board properly. Is any voltages present on its phases when you see the blue screen? This IC is vital for SDRAM I/O, so its should be enabled on early stages when loading fw.
As we already know to show 'No SD CARD' screen SDRAM is not required(because i saw this screen with the chipped MAX77812). Also SDRAM is not required to load payload.bin from SD card(because https://github.com/lulle2007200/ums-loader also works just fine).

is OFW on your Lite was working fine before you installed picofly?

@superxoi
i still don't understand how you can corrupt emmc data installing picofly? Picofly uses one data line, all the data transferred in packets with appropriate CRC. Any garbage on data line should be detected and discarded(in theory of course). Or maybe something happens in next stages after picofly ends his job

That i don't know too. I surmised 3 culprits(emmc,dram,cpu) when i was fixing the yellow lite and choose to work on emmc first because it was easiest in the trio. To be honest at i was replacing the emmc i hoped it would have shown me bluescreen again so that the problem would remain in cpu and dram and the lite would not have been banned. But turned out it was the case. I hope these two not be the case as i was.

 

[MoeXzl]

Alright, so 30AWG kynar for 3.3v and ground is good?

It's perfectly fine. You just have to see if you can solder it well.

 

[QuiTim]

Alright, so 30AWG kynar for 3.3v and ground is good?

I use 40 for everything, no problem so far but if you want to be on a safe side, 36 is more than enough for 3v3 and Ground.
I would not use anything thicker than 36 on this mod because you just risk ripping something off.

 

[Switxh]

Thanks for your response! Yeah it boots all the way to the game selector. I checked through system settings and stuff a few times and all seemed fully working in the OFW side. But thanks to your suggestions I have some places to start now. Tomorrow I will try replacing the 47ohm CMD resistor on the Picofly and change the wire too just incase. For the 3.3v I used the one from the capacitors near the fan connector. Picofly seems to get power every time but I will remove solder mask and check readings properly tomorrow too. Cheers!

Update to this, it was the connection between the Picofly and the CMD resistor on the motherboard, like abal1000x suggested! It was showing a reading on my multimeter but upon further inspection the connection under the solder mask was actually broken. Must have been a bad solder joint to begin with on my part. This was my own personal OLED and the first one I modchipped (at the time). I got afraid of the CMD resistor and I guess I didn't use enough heat. But now the console boots to Hekate! Instant glitch. Just now I am masking up the connections and later I will put it in the ultrasonic bath and reassemble it. Thanks @abal1000x for your help!

 

[abal1000x]

Alright, so 30AWG kynar for 3.3v and ground is good?

I also prefer 40awg plastic insulated for everything (yes including 3.3V and gnd).

 

[karatefeet]

hi, is your original MAX77812 had any defects visible under the microscope? Also make sure your new IC has no defects and sit on the board properly. Is any voltages present on its phases when you see the blue screen? This IC is vital for SDRAM I/O, so its should be enabled on early stages when loading fw.
As we already know to show 'No SD CARD' screen SDRAM is not required(because i saw this screen with the chipped MAX77812). Also SDRAM is not required to load payload.bin from SD card(because https://github.com/lulle2007200/ums-loader also works just fine).

is OFW on your Lite was working fine before you installed picofly?

Yes, OFW was working fine before modding.
No defects with the original MAX77812 and the new one looked good and sits nicely.
Do you have a good diagram to check for the phase voltages? Just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

 

[Hassal]

Yes, OFW was working fine before modding.
No defects with the original MAX77812 and the new one looked good and sits nicely.
Do you have a good diagram to check for the phase voltages? Just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

I think these people are confusing two different types of panic screens.
If you get the dark blue screen (which is different than the sky blue one) that's more likely an issue with the CPU and/or RAM or any in between.

 

[_kedo_]

Yes, OFW was working fine before modding.
No defects with the original MAX77812 and the new one looked good and sits nicely.
Do you have a good diagram to check for the phase voltages? Just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

Spoiler: Pmic

I had a dark blue screen in OFW, and black screen when hekates payload.bin from SD card executes its code

 

[superxoi]

Spoiler: Pmic

View attachment 417800

I had a dark blue screen in OFW, and black screen when hekates payload.bin from SD card executes its code

Hey friend. Do you have this kind of pictures but for bq,m92t,and p13 ic,max 77620. Some time i got consoles which are already missing some caps and resistors. It is a pain for asking ppl in here all the time about their value all the time.

 

[_kedo_]

Hey friend. Do you have this kind of pictures but for bq,m92t,and p13 ic,max 77620. Some time i got consoles which are already missing some caps and resistors. It is a pain for asking ppl in here all the time about their value all the time.

Nice pic from previous post was provided by @jkyoho in one of tronicsfixforum thread. Also @Hassal provided here some time ago very useful link https://files.zzattack.org/img/console/switch/oled/Components/

 

[superxoi]

Nice pic from previous post was provided by @jkyoho in one of tronicsfixforum thread. Also @Hassal provided here some time ago very useful link https://files.zzattack.org/img/console/switch/oled/Components/

Thank you. I know that jkyoho knows almost all the components but i have bothered him too much recently so i don't want to bother him more.

 

[Ragna666]

can officially say I modded my first oled the hard way

View attachment 383013




View attachment 383008

Maaan.

Why don't you uv masked the other two exposed layer before you soldered the dat0 on the third layer?

 

[Viktorsilva]

Hi Guys.

I want to share this terrifying experience I had today



i received another Oled (brand new ) to Mod and decided to try another drilling tip (big mistake ). It drill´s faster and after a while i saw that i´ve fucked up the Dat1 and Dat0 via . Of course console stop power on when i press the power button. I went to deep in the layers before i stop. Problem with the self-confidence I gained from doing the previous kamikazes.

Decided not to give up and do my best to get it back. Applyed some solder mask to proteck groud contact and start rebuilding both via connections . After 2h fully made it :

It seems easy, but then who already perform kamikaze on the oled knows that its a tiny litle hole. Connecting to via´s and take the risk to connect dat0 to picofly was just crazy. But in the end it paid off.
I allways use the single mosfet installation with out any problems (V1,V2, Lite and Oled)

At the end everything works perfectly. Allways instant boot. This Oled come back from the dead ))

 

[harpin14789]

Hello, I'm trying to mod my oled switch, I finished the mod and I'm getting this error *==, then the switch boots into OFW and everything is working fine.
Where do I start on troubleshooting this?

 

[MoeXzl]

Please measure the individual points in diode mode. And a few pictures are always very helpful