I installed the V1 rp2040 from Aliexpress and it worked until I ran a couple of games and they wouldn't start. I then rebooted the Switch with Atomosphere giving me the error 2002-3540. I decided to just boot into normal Switch mode and it's stuck at the Switch logo. I tried remove the rp2040 and reinstalled the nand with it still being stuck on logo. It goes into Hekate just fine and I've been making backups just in case I corrupted the nand somehow, but the backups are after I wasn't able to boot. According to Hekate it charges just fine, so what did I do wrong? What do I need to fix this?
**UPDATE**
I did the same thing in this video and I'm able to boot the switch with Atomosphere but not normal switch mode. I haven't tried without the rp2040 but why is this happening?
**UPDATE**
I did the same thing in this video and I'm able to boot the switch with Atomosphere but not normal switch mode. I haven't tried without the rp2040 but why is this happening?
Last edited by Dukenukemx,
Hello considering modding my Zelda oled switch, since it's the homebrew stuff I want to use it for.
I have purchased this alieexpress mod chip and I wonder if anyone have had success with these on oled? From my understanding it's a copy of some other modchip kit?
Have found this video which seems to use the same modchip.
Also wonder which firmware for the rp2040 to use, is it 1.73 which is the most stable?
Just wondering which chip I would go for with highest rate of success =)
I have purchased this alieexpress mod chip and I wonder if anyone have had success with these on oled? From my understanding it's a copy of some other modchip kit?
Have found this video which seems to use the same modchip.
Also wonder which firmware for the rp2040 to use, is it 1.73 which is the most stable?
Just wondering which chip I would go for with highest rate of success =)
i used this chip many time and working ok, it came without firmware you need to add it, i use 2.75
https://github.com/rehius/usk/releases
The problem is the resistor in Dat0/cmd.you need to replace it with 100ohm.because some Chinese clone picofly use 47ohm on dat0/cmd.or you can use 47+47 on dat0 and 47+47 on cmd
Last edited by Rodel,
So this 47ohm resistor bricked my Switches nand? What do I need to do to repair the nand? Is this the location of the resistor?
If you cannot boot to ofw even if you remove the picofly means your nand is corrupt you need to restore it but if you can boot means the picofly chip is the problem.yes that's the location of the resistor.you need to remove it or add some resistor to dat0 and cmd..clk still 47ohmsSo this 47ohm resistor bricked my Switches nand? What do I need to do to repair the nand? Is this the location of the resistor?
Why do people skip the most important step after a chip installation?
A backup of everything is the first thing you do, nothing else.
Every guide tells you to, the problem above is a perfect example.
If the person had made a backup first thing, no problem. Easy fast fix.
Now, f things up first then make a backup, (a backup with problems) good luck on that.
So why does people skip backups?
Space issue, SD/storing backup?
Ignorance?
Laziness?
I’ill do that later?
Genuine curious about this because we see so many threads with people without backups.
A backup of everything is the first thing you do, nothing else.
Every guide tells you to, the problem above is a perfect example.
If the person had made a backup first thing, no problem. Easy fast fix.
Now, f things up first then make a backup, (a backup with problems) good luck on that.
So why does people skip backups?
Space issue, SD/storing backup?
Ignorance?
Laziness?
I’ill do that later?
Genuine curious about this because we see so many threads with people without backups.
There is no need for a NAND backup during a modchip installation, as long as you know how to install it. the eMMC does not corrupt itself but can be damaged due to lack of soldering skills. the only thing to take are the unique keys that allow you to recreate a stock image of the emmc. I can say this from experience.
I tested the resistor and I'm reading 196ohms. It's the one where the green line goes to. The other ones in that image are reading 42ohms except for the clk 27 which reads a dead short. That's the blue one. Isn't that one also suppose to be 47ohms? I'm going by the image.
First laziness and second ignorance because I didn't know I should make a backup.
I'm still learning to solder. So far everything seems connected.
can you share Gerber file?Update from my custom pcb design:
I received the custom pcb I made for rp2040, assembled all components and tested. It works great! It seems faster in glitching also about 2sec consistent.
Edit:
Each custom pcb and all components costs about less than $2 only.
Decided to practice installing picofly on a switch lite.(My first smd soldering except from practice boards)
Wondering if this soldering looks ok but ugly on sp1 and sp2. Sp2 was real hard to get solder to stick and also not touch cap on right. Think I got to much solder on.
beep ohm readings from left 0.1 21 21 0,1(not sure what correct values are, couldn't find any info for SP1, SP2)
.
Wondering if this soldering looks ok but ugly on sp1 and sp2. Sp2 was real hard to get solder to stick and also not touch cap on right. Think I got to much solder on.
beep ohm readings from left 0.1 21 21 0,1(not sure what correct values are, couldn't find any info for SP1, SP2)
.
It's connected but I reflowed and added more solder just in case. I also replaced the clk 27 with a 47ohm resistor. Hopefully that wasn't suppose to be a 0ohm resistor.
Post automatically merged:
Using TegraExplorer to try and fix my nand and when I run SystemRestoreV3.te I get "[FATAL] BIS Write Failed!!!". What's going on here?
Last edited by Dukenukemx,
By skipping backup you’re asking for trouble.
Any number of things can go wrong, and having backup can help you keep your shop access (and online play) in case shit goes bad down the line.
Obviously recreating nand from backup might get you banned in some cases (hello, error log mismatch), but at least with the backup you have options in many situations.
Without backup you might be stuck with emuemmc (and maybe cartridge play, if you get a donor dump).
In the end, you do you. But I wouldn’t go universally preaching “backups are useless”. Because it’s reckless.
Evidently you have understood little about the matter. If you know how to weld you can't have problems with the emmc. Clear now? After about 500 installations, let me have my say. Thank you
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most case prodinfo partition and prod.key plus boot0/1 bakcup are good enough, rawnand.bin backup just takes long time and most partiton can be rebuild from emmchacgen.
myself start skipping rawnand backup since my tiny HDD now full of clients rawnand files taking many GBs
myself start skipping rawnand backup since my tiny HDD now full of clients rawnand files taking many GBs
Well that's the main reason people skip full backup because it takes a considerable amount of time.most case prodinfo partition and prod.key plus boot0/1 bakcup are good enough, rawnand.bin backup just takes long time and most partiton can be rebuild from emmchacgen.
myself start skipping rawnand backup since my tiny HDD now full of clients rawnand files taking many GBs
But you could just dump keys+prodinfo which literally takes less than a minute to do.
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