Any tip or trick for soldering the mosfet? I find it really tiny and I'm struggling with my iron. Currently I can't get HWFLY's flex.
Check faq.How do you flash it I flashed it with the uf2 and now I get a green light and no backlight
either with the usb port or via hekate and the special .bin file called picofly_tb.binHow do you flash it I flashed it with the uf2 and now I get a green light and no backlight
Did you make installation video about OLED?
Confirm working on oled
Super fast boot, faster than oled v5
nand sk hynix
extra long wiring left due to possibly need to locate in another place
next step fit that monter inside
Thanks again to the privileged minds who made it possible.
i know nothing, but it should be, because cpu is the sameHi, sorry for the inconvenience, but is there a diagram to install the chip with the hwfly Flex cables in the V2 and Oled? I saw that there is a diagram for the Lite that uses the third pin of the Flex cable to take it to the "cpu" pinout on the rp2040, I don't know if this also applies to the V2 and the Oled
View attachment 360539
Been working on this today to hopefully simplify this install for people
It has the 47 ohm resistors integrated as well as the glitch timing reset jumper, but most importantly all the thick components are on a section that breaks off after programming. A set of 1.27mm jumpers are provided to reconnect the usb, vreg and button section for updates. The concept is that the jumpers are only soldered into the usb board and is held on the contacts on the lower board for the duration of the update.
As it stands the thickest component is the (optional) flat flex connector for the HWFLY flex cable, the current connector is 2mm tall because that's one i've got in the parts drawers. I've been eyeing up thinner ones too. Fortunately the important pins on the HWFLY cpu flex is symmetrical so the pinout should be correct no matter what.
Total dimensions are ~18mm x ~21mm after the usb section has been detatched, This can also be ordered on a thin pcb to keep overall thickness as slim as possible, I tried to make this board as compact as feasible without making it difficult to install
This uses 0402 components making hand assembly a challenge but not impossible for someone experienced with electronics.
This is still being worked on, i havent got the routing done yet, only placement. Once it's complete (and tested) I'll release the kicad files and gerbers onto GitHub for everyone to use, build and improve upon. I dont have the bandwidth or will to sell these myself TBH. I'm busy enough as is haha.
Keen to take feedback from people, I know my work cant be perfect but i'd like to make this as good as possible
No, but you can watch any videos out there, stheti...for instance, points are the same, only you must wire up everything (not use enameled pls) and follow the scheme of pico on op.Did you make installation video about OLED?
This. I second the premise flex cablesNo, but you can wath any videos out there, stheti...for instance, points are the same, only you must wire up everything (not use enameled pls) and follow the sheme of pico on op.
I recomend use the premade flex specially if you are noy experienced. Pads in pico are huge.
Best regards
I read unlock is used with picofly_tb to update from hekate so hopefully we can update to 2.6 as I've just removed the usbc port thinking I'm safe to put the switch back togethereither with the usb port or via hekate and the special .bin file called picofly_tb.bin
I originally did it with the TS100-C1 tip. It was fine for the tiny pads and clk point but didn't have enough thermal mass for the anchors. I usually use a TS-BC2 tip for everything now unless it's a large component which then gets the TS-C4 tip. I tried the TS100-JL02 as suggested but didn't like it. Should work though.
maybe someone can produce it in mass as beer. Im sure many people will colaborateThis. I second the premise flex cables
are the buttons higher up than the usb-c port?maybe someone can produce it in mass as beer. Im sure many people will colaborate
once shield trimed and everything closed the back cover bups up a litlle. we need to gain 1mm more of deep and trim the ram shield also in order to keep the usb port on
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...615122543!sea!SE!0&curPageLogUid=UoPh8lU7cuSEA recently uploaded video I saw mentioned it's almost the same price as the HWFLY while a recently posted article says its 3$, which is it?
Also - any benefits of one over the other?
Im really just curious
The current fw is meant for the rp2040 zero because of the LED. I bet the fw will still work on a Pico, but maybe the rgb code will bug stuff out.Hello, do you specifically need to use a RP2040 Zero, or does any microcontroller with a RP2040 processor can be used? (Let's say a Raspberry Pi Pico)
maybe this helps u :-)maybe someone can produce it in mass as beer. Im sure many people will colaborate
once shield trimed and everything closed the back cover bumps up a litlle. we need to gain 1mm more of deep and trim the ram shield also in order to keep the usb port on
Or find another place/position
Nah pi pico is too big.Hello, do you specifically need to use a RP2040 Zero, or does any microcontroller with a RP2040 processor can be used? (Let's say a Raspberry Pi Pico)