Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

tactical-waffle

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Hekate "payload.bin" goes in the root of the sd card
ty
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Hekate "payload.bin" goes in the root of the sd card
hey sorry im looking at the hekate release zip and the only .bin file i can find is called hekate_ctcaer_6.0.3.bin, is that the one you mean
 
Last edited by tactical-waffle,
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lightninjay

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Interesting, having 94 ohm on D0 and CMD is fine, but put CLK on 94ohm and I get orange D0 blink. Hopefully just having D0 and CMD at higher resistance will solve the slow emmc issue.
Just a question, did the higher resistances resolve your slow emmc issue? I have the 47 ohm resistors in place, but can change them out when I open my console up to try and restore my wireless functionality.
 

JackFrostSMT

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Just a question, did the higher resistances resolve your slow emmc issue? I have the 47 ohm resistors in place, but can change them out when I open my console up to try and restore my wireless functionality.
Yes, 47 ohm gave me about a 50/50 mix of slow emmc and normal. Don't think thatll fix your wifi issues tho if the console reads emmc just fine. Did you say your wifi issue was on sysnand or emummc?
 

lightninjay

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Yes, 47 ohm gave me about a 50/50 mix of slow emmc and normal. Don't think thatll fix your wifi issues tho if the console reads emmc just fine. Did you say your wifi issue was on sysnand or emummc?
Oh sorry, that is a separate issue relating to the two caps to the left of the APU shield being accidentally swept off. I am going to be opening up the console to repair those contacts, and just wondered if I should bother bumping D0 and CMD to 94 ohm or not.

I also assume you just put two 47 ohm 0805 resistors in series?
 
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FueledSamantha

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As a side note, 30AWG isn't small enough for this 0201 cap. Need like 36 or 40AWG from the looks of it. I broke the cap, but it isn't vital anyway. I took the cap off and then scratched off the solder resist on large power trace going to it, outlined below in red. This is much more secure than just using the cap, though also obviously more destructive. Certified "Works For Me" though.

View attachment 362487
Just did this myself and can confirm scraping this pad and soldering to it is a million times easier than soldering to the cap.
The solder mask is very thin so be patient when scraping it off.

Here are pics with 30awg. (still waiting on my 36awg).
 

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FueledSamantha

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Can we REuse the voltage regulator from the PZeros to tap into a 5V source on the Switchs, instead of soldering to the small cap next to M9?
So far in my experiance its best to run off the same voltage regs as the console when it comes to chips running payload injection, makes getting the signals into the right range much easier (for example we know 47ohm resistors do the job). If you start running with externally regulated voltage things can get out of hand quickly and in some cases cook the circuit you're injecting into.

Learnt this with a PS1 modchip I was developing.
 

Arakon

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Flashed 2.61 via toolbox, worked fine. However, first time training took much longer after that, like 2 minutes.. several restarts since also took ~10 seconds or so, used to be almost instant. Patched V1 with rpi2040 Zero.
 

juanvlc

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tested v2.61 on oled and erista patched, flashed tru toolbox both, first attemp not flash on both, second attempt flashed correctly on both.
Also on both, reboot to ofw from hekate doesn´t work, animated square logo and boots hekate. Selecting ofw from hekate icon works.
Thanks for your work
 
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Warbeast

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Can we REuse the voltage regulator from the PZeros to tap into a 5V source on the Switchs, instead of soldering to the small cap next to M9?
I often replace m92t36 so was thinking of using another 3.3v point so to not run wires around m92 incase it ever needs to be replaced

The emmc board has a 3.3v point that I guess sx core and hwfly clones use with the solderless chips
Screenshot_20230319_134832_Gallery.jpg
 

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