Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

LazarusGX4

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
40
Trophies
1
XP
83
Country
Australia
..hi, i would just like to know the proper way of resetting Pico's Training Data by Bridging 0 and 1 points on the pico pcb?
i'm getting long Blue flashes then Red LED... :(
 

LogicalMadness

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
287
Trophies
0
Age
41
XP
690
Country
United States
...mine doesnt even go to "no SD" / hecate screen...

I don't see anything in the definitive guide about a purple>red led code.

Purple>red led code sounds more like the HWFly that I installed into a V2. That turned out to be a disconnected emmc. I'd say double check your dat0\clk\cmd connections and inspect your emmc.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LazarusGX4

BigHorse420

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Jan 7, 2023
Messages
25
Trophies
0
Age
34
XP
94
Country
Zimbabwe
I am interested in reading through the source code. I have tried decompiling the fw_2.65.uf2 by using uf2conv to create a bin file and then decompiling it with objdump. This did not work. I have also tried loading the uf2 files using the online editors but those have failed to work aswell. Anyone have any other ideas?
You can convert it to bin with picotool and decompile the bin with ghidra, there is info on page 30-70
 
  • Like
Reactions: w0nd3rb0yfx

LazarusGX4

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
40
Trophies
1
XP
83
Country
Australia
...It works now :)

...it seems that for the RST/CPU/CLK/DAT0/CMD -- I should have used same type of wire (enameled 0.2)...

i was using a mix of kynar (awg 30) and enameled wire, and I was getting Blue > Red LED (maybe Timed Out? / Timing Issue?)

when I replaced the wires and made them the same type, I got 2 sec Blue then Green LED...

Thanks Again to All
... now time to Sleep...

:)
 
Last edited by LazarusGX4,

Dee87

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2023
Messages
1,139
Trophies
1
XP
1,589
Country
Germany
Do YOU even know?
bro whatt u mean do u even know ? did u read the las180 pages its the real deal i bet atleas 2.000 defices already have a picofly installed and succsesfully running XD

i have already installed 10 picofly in switches and they are all owned by me Xd
 
Last edited by Dee87,

Makc16384

Member
Newcomer
Joined
Apr 19, 2023
Messages
24
Trophies
0
Age
39
XP
156
Country
Germany
Finally I did it!

IMG_4111.jpeg


Of course, in fact, this is my first work with a soldering iron inside such devices and I encountered many problems during installation.

I strongly recommend that you use a thin magnetic wire (0.1mm) for all points except 3.3v, RST and GND (AWG30 Teflon wire is suitable for these). Also AWG30 is enough to connect one MOSFET transistor to the caps.

Instead of a microscope, I have successfully used an iPad or Smartphone in zoom mode, simply by placing it on a glass. I recommend:

IMG_4101.jpeg


Initially, I ordered such a cheap set from Aliexpress, soldered it 5 times, but it never worked:

cable.jpeg


Then I removed the transistors from it and checked it with a multimeter. They turned out to be workers. Marking: 2202a ct84y. I installed one with AWG30 wire and it worked. Solder point G only with a copper thin wire, and not like me:

IMG_0121.jpeg


IMG_4102.jpeg


Many thanks to all of you, the GBATEMP forum, and most importantly to the creator of the firmware! You are our hero!
 

vittorio

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
243
Trophies
1
Age
26
XP
1,010
Country
Italy
Finally I did it!

View attachment 366136

Of course, in fact, this is my first work with a soldering iron inside such devices and I encountered many problems during installation.

I strongly recommend that you use a thin magnetic wire (0.1mm) for all points except 3.3v, RST and GND (AWG30 Teflon wire is suitable for these). Also AWG30 is enough to connect one MOSFET transistor to the caps.

Instead of a microscope, I have successfully used an iPad or Smartphone in zoom mode, simply by placing it on a glass. I recommend:

View attachment 366138

Initially, I ordered such a cheap set from Aliexpress, soldered it 5 times, but it never worked:

View attachment 366140

Then I removed the transistors from it and checked it with a multimeter. They turned out to be workers. Marking: 2202a ct84y. I installed one with AWG30 wire and it worked. Solder point G only with a copper thin wire, and not like me:

View attachment 366141

View attachment 366142

Many thanks to all of you, the GBATEMP forum, and most importantly to the creator of the firmware! You are our hero!
I used these flats and they worked, I paid around 13 euros for them
 
  • Like
Reactions: Makc16384

ecko4711

Member
Newcomer
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
24
Trophies
0
Age
30
XP
423
Country
Germany
So i have the next issue, maybe someone here can help me.
For a short time, my switch wasnt working completely. no charging, etc.
After fixing the brigde at DAT0 it was finally booting again, but only screen light and nothing else. fan isnt turning and yeah basically thats it. Someone any idea what else can be the issue?
As a next step I was just thinking putting the picfly back in and test it again.
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
    K3Nv2 @ K3Nv2: They'll see hey cod is on Gamepass and go that route