How visible is the led when the console is closed up?Thanks i added some capton tape
Correct install Picofly on V2 Mariko
First, whats going on here (picture 1) ?Hello guys.
Today I have done a V1 unpached with picofly.
But have a issue that, when I close the console, it stop working. And when open to se the LED it goes Blue then Purple (or pink, Idon't Know). So I just put the RP a little more for Left and close. And worked.
I don't know if it is something from the resistor or soldering or something else.
Any one had the same issue?
It's with kapton both sides. (final install)First, whats going on here (picture 1) ?
Second, add some tape (continuos from one side to another so the edge does not touch the shield ) picture 2
Forgot to say.First, whats going on here (picture 1) ?
Second, add some tape (continuos from one side to another so the edge does not touch the shield ) picture 2
Ok, so if everything is insulated but you get different results when moving the rp2040 or putting presure on it then it must be one of two things, you either have a cold joint in one of the soldering points or maybe that enameled wire is giving you a short somewhere.It's with kapton both sides. (final install)
Post automatically merged:
Forgot to say.
GND was comming behind the chip.
but I change it because it's strange.
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/updates#resource-update-39515I got a switch I believe v1 or v2 anything else I need other than chip n qsb
Thanks man.Ok, so if everything is insulated but you get different results when moving the rp2040 or putting presure on it then it must be one of two things, you either have a cold joint in one of the soldering points or maybe that enameled wire is giving you a short somewhere.
Based on the colors you saw, you should check the bottom 2 resistors (where clk and cmd are wired)
Got this offer on a local craiglist:
View attachment 341370View attachment 341371 View attachment 341369
The seller says it's a new RP2040 Picofly based version modchip for Switch Lite and Oled, only.
What do you think about it, looks like it's a clearly fake, am I right?.. Or not?
So would it be a good idea to not solder on 47-Ohms on the Rp2040 point for Dat0 to begin with and stick on a 100-Ohm resistor insitead (just to potentially future proof that part of the build).For resistance problems, D0 requires 100Ω, and the other pins are 47Ω
So would it be a good idea to not solder on 47-Ohms on the Rp2040 point for Dat0 to begin with and stick on a 100-Ohm resistor insitead (just to potentially future proof that part of the build).
I see, case by case basis it is. Merci.Because it's not always necessary
Do you know what components are NEEDED to run PicoFly from a PZero? Meaning, just how much can we remove from the board and it will still glitch? Besides the known USB\regulator\buttons\some caps.
Pretty clean. What did you use to cut the shield?Correct install Picofly on V2 Mariko
I almost always get different results when closing it up, it's not until I triple-check the wires that it works. Starting to wonder if enamel wire is the way to go. What wire type do you prefer?Ok, so if everything is insulated but you get different results when moving the rp2040 or putting presure on it then it must be one of two things, you either have a cold joint in one of the soldering points or maybe that enameled wire is giving you a short somewhere.
Based on the colors you saw, you should check the bottom 2 resistors (where clk and cmd are wired)