Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

SubstituteSW

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Is that the same as this on aliexpress?
 

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ZXEdward

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Thank you for your advice,I will try
Seems like purple, emmc failed. Add the resistor value to around 100 ohm to minimalize the noise, might fix.
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im in the process modding my lite, and i meet situation like you...
from your video, its not red color, looks like purple or pink . idk.

but i got same situation like you, which from blue > purple(maybe wasnt sure the color) , and lead to boot regular ofw.
but after that i resoldering my cables to resistor47, and i meet red led light=which make the screen only blackscreen, no boot to ofw. (after that i found my r47 soldering to rp2040 kinda bad joint/cracked, i use pinset and touch the R47 and it just fell off):whip:

since im only testing it, i havent cut my cables from D0,CMD,CLK to R47 rp2040, and the cable pretty long, soon prob ill cut to a properly measure length.
(prob in my situation bad joint on the point, also bad soldering/cold soldering/cracked solder)

im pause and waiting my uv light and new soldering iron to continue this process, last time im too careful with the D0,CMD,CLK point, im afraid if i broke the point. (for now i remove all wiring from the RP2040 and my lite still can boot to OFW with no problem)

can someone explain what red led light on rp2040 means ?
also which type cable better for the point ?
for now im using enamel 0.1mm for the point D0 CMD CLK
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i saw from the pico guide, they add double resistor R47+R47 total R94, is it gonna fix ?
for purple led indication problem ??
I also changed the length of the wires,but it is useless. And one time I reweld the resistance for CLK,There was also a black screen that prevented the power from turning on due to a short circuit between the resistor and one pin of the BOOT button
 
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Alpuerto213

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Latest firmware here

ChangeLog:

v2.0 + Active MMC communication
v2.1 + Toshiba support
v2.2 + Fix Toshiba boot fail
v2.3 + SanDisk support
v2.4 + Faster Toshiba boot
v2.5 + fix OFW boot
v2.6 + software update, xiao & itsy support
v2.61 + Instinct-NX sdloader, bug fixes
v2.62 + Make 16.0.1 happy (fix OFW boot)
v2.63 + roll back some 2.62 boot speed tricks
v2.64 + enable back the board detection
v2.65 + RP Pico support, double reset removed
v2.66 + Bypass to OFW after update for proper fuse burning
v2.67 + Don't bypass to OFW on first install

must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

WHITE = eMMC write
BLUE = glitch
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
PINK = NS eMMC init fails, inoperative eMMC ?
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
GREEN = success



Q: What is supported?
A: Erista (v1), Mariko (v2, Lite, OLED)

Q: eMMC types support?
A: Tested on Hynix, Samsung, Toshiba, SanDisk

Q: rp2040 boards support
A: WaveShare 2040-zero/one, xiao-rp2040, adafruit itsybitsy (Pi Pico is not supported for now)

Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point

Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot (sysNAND data can be damaged).

Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.

Q: open source?
A: no

Q: why you made it?
A: to prove it possible!

Q: run Atmosphere?
A: no piracy

v2.5 firmware had a bug with BOOT0 corruption. To recover it:
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- update to the latest official firmware over Wi-Fi

- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- perform a full system reset

- show firmware information
- update firmware from SD card (place update.bin into the root folder)
- rollback to the backup firmware slot
- reset learning statistics
- dump / write sdloader

if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.

I keep getting yellow blink even though everything is fine how do I properly check if its ok or not?
 

everyonesweird

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Hello. I installed picofly on a switch lite and it loops on green light when I insert sd card with. Glitches blue and then green and then loop. only happens when I insert sd card. Stays at NoSD logo if I remove the sd card.
I have changed sd card of different brands but still same greenlight loop.
Cannot boot to stock by pressing Vol + and - but can boot to OFW when I remove the picofly
 

QuiTim

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Hello. I installed picofly on a switch lite and it loops on green light when I insert sd card with. Glitches blue and then green and then loop. only happens when I insert sd card. Stays at NoSD logo if I remove the sd card.
I have changed sd card of different brands but still same greenlight loop.
Cannot boot to stock by pressing Vol + and - but can boot to OFW when I remove the picofly
did you try different HATS pack?
 

LogicalMadness

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I now see the flaw(s) in my original questioning. Are these needed to run the glitch?
 

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SQc04

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