Can be usedQuick silly question, can I use the cpu flex cable of a V2 on an oled?
Can be usedQuick silly question, can I use the cpu flex cable of a V2 on an oled?
I do not recommend other points, easy to damage. But if you think you are skilled, good luckI think we need to find a relatively easy SDA SCL.
all boards are supported. Waveshare pins are 12 (SDA) and 13 (SCL)What is SDA and SCL points? Only ok Xiao? Or is It something about 2040 Zero-Tiny too?
are you sure? it is fine to have ~10-15 Ohms there. Continuity is < 1 Ohm.these three red caps give continuity from both sides
Check "northridgefix" on youtube. He has a couple of videos troubleshooting this exact chip. I'm sure one of them will match your problemThank you for your reply. I checked with a multimeter. these three red caps give continuity from both sides. The others do not. Do you think the chip is damaged?
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Thank you. One more thing I should have reported. I would sometimes get a blue screen with White LED. It disappears after re-plugging the battery, sometimes. Does that tell us anything?The black one in the middle
Mmm I don't understand. In the past I use an 2040Zero with 2.61 firm and everything is ok.I do not recommend other points, easy to damage. But if you think you are skilled, good luck
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all boards are supported. Waveshare pins are 12 (SDA) and 13 (SCL)
That looks like CYAN light (glitch failure), you should see OFW booting there. My damaged Lite also gave blue screen instead of OFW, so looks like you have similar hardware issues.Thank you. One more thing I should have reported. I would sometimes get a blue screen with White LED. It disappears after re-plugging the battery, sometimes. Does that tell us anything?
Sorry, @rehius for disturbing you.
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SDA & SCL are optional, for those who have issues with glitch reliability (single mosfet, too thin wires, glitch works only by pressing RST during console boot). You can do the hack the same way as you did beforeIs it something important to take into account or can I do it the same as the other time?
too bad. I was going to remove the modchip and update my lite to the latest firmware like it says in the post with blue screen. I used the latest version of Picofly but my lite was not updated to the latest firmware.That looks like CYAN light (glitch failure), you should see OFW booting there. My damaged Lite also gave blue screen instead of OFW, so looks like you have similar hardware issues.
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SDA & SCL are optional, for those who have issues with glitch reliability (single mosfet, too thin wires, glitch works only by pressing RST during console boot). You can do the hack the same way as you did before
I track that line to the top pcb and its this (the bottom of the cpu)
That looks like CYAN light (glitch failure), you should see OFW booting there. My damaged Lite also gave blue screen instead of OFW, so looks like you have similar hardware issues.
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SDA & SCL are optional, for those who have issues with glitch reliability (single mosfet, too thin wires, glitch works only by pressing RST during console boot). You can do the hack the same way as you did before
That ic is famous to be broken. I am sure it will broke at one time. The same with the LCD, majority of the lite will broke the LCD at around 3-4 years.I had a damaged MAX77*, right under the CPU
great, which board are those alternative points for, oled or lite?I track that line to the top pcb and its this (the bottom of the cpu)
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Its so small (not recommended), but still i do that point, and its work.
So xiao rp2040 with undervoltage glitching is working. I confirmed that.
Thank you rehius, for a very quality firmware.
You are awesome.
lite.great, which board are those alternative points for, oled or lite?
same for all boards. I still suggest to avoid those ones. very easy to rip offgreat, which board are those alternative points for, oled or lite?
i2c for Lite - tested
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wrong points
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that is required for proper fuse burning. not a bug.
Yes its on the back pcb.Where is it exactly on the lite? On the back?
Trying to glitch with other mosfets but its not working, maybe with this itll work.
I don't think there was a case (yet) of incompatible nand that i've seen.Hello, I have a new problem with switch lite. picofly programmed correctly 2.67. Correct installation, all points well welded and with a UV mask. all correct values and checked several times but I still have the same problem.
turn on blue and yellow light and boot original system. I don't know if between the blue and yellow light is the white light since everything happens super fast. Does anyone know what the problem is here? I don't know what to try anymore, I ran out of resources and I just think that it might be the nand memory that is not compatible for this job? I hope someone can guide me so I can see the green light on this switch
Hello, I have a new problem with switch lite. picofly programmed correctly 2.67. Correct installation, all points well welded and with a UV mask. all correct values and checked several times but I still have the same problem.
turn on blue and yellow light and boot original system. I don't know if between the blue and yellow light is the white light since everything happens super fast. Does anyone know what the problem is here? I don't know what to try anymore, I ran out of resources and I just think that it might be the nand memory that is not compatible for this job? I hope someone can guide me so I can see the green light on this switch