I did one v1 unpatched. Works great, no problem.
Yes works like on every other switch ;-)
I've done 5 or 6 so no issue
@vulp_vibes I think I come up with the idea to fix joycon issue with the JRST signal mod.
I initially added 47ohm resistor on DI to see if any change, it did make non-LED mod joycon intermittently recognize when in handheld. So I went with 1k ohm, still not much difference on NON-LED mod JC. On the other hand, LED-MOD JC wont recognize in handheld mode or even wireless mode(didn't try manual rest). It will only recognize when JRST wire remove.
At this point I'm pretty sure is the JRST wire having interference when connect to rp2040 LED DI point. I suddenly came up an idea using capacitor to carry the DI signal through JRST, since it's analog signal the capacitor would also stop DC interference, just like HDMI circuit does around other console. And BANG-ON, 0.1uf 0201 CAP I normally use on PS5 HDMI port PIN18 did the trick!
Short story version: ADD 0.1uF cap between DI and JRST/pin6!!!
I've tested it, glitching LED light signal works and handheld connection no issue so far, Let me know if your side have same result.
--Small update: if you have experiencing right JC handheld works(with 0.1uF cap on DI) but dis-attached wireless mode couldn't find JC, try go into setting: Controllers & sensors--->disconnect controller, press X to disconnect all controller then re-attach LED-mod JC into the rail, this should fix the bug.I had this happened after I added 0.1uF cap in CFW, but OFW works.
0.1uF cap between DI and the JRST line did not work for me.. may be a difference with seeed xiao rp2040 or old v1 board. handheld functionality is restored but the LED no longer lights up. thank you for testing; I will continue to look into it when I have spare time
Last edited by vulp_vibes,
I've half-performed the mod (I opened my switch because I needed to add 47-ohm resistors to my RP2040-Tiny to get rid of the eMMC slow performance error) and while I was inside installed the wire and capacitor for the mod. I tried removing the LED from the RP2040-Tiny and destroyed it, but gave myself clear access to the pads to install the capacitor and wire.
I ordered some WS2812 2020 LED's from Amazon and when I get them, I'll perform the other half of the mod on the joycon and see whether or not there are any joycon pairing/reset issues.
Maaan.
This is disgusting.
Even i do it much nicer than this with my crap chinese aliexpress soldering iron.
I only do the mosfet differently because somehow i'm not able to bridge the gnd point together, i use a cable that i fold like that i can solder to the gnd points of the 2mosfet together with that.
Check the pics of my preparation.
There is some flux on the chip right now.
I gonna clean that up tomorrow when my isopropil alcohol arrives and redo the kapton tapes and use uv mask on the other mosfet too.
I don't have soldering experience more than a few weeks and have a motherfuckin cheapskate chinese soldering iron, cheap chinese electric microscope and a 46years old multimeter plus the icing on the cake: i modified the soldering iron tip too.
I don't wanna polish myself but this is 1000% better than his work.
And i can say i'm an amateur.
This doesn't require some special skills, just the right tools, some common sense and a stable hand.
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Why do you want to suffer with the soldering if you can get a payload injector for a good price?
Just just need to plug it in, push a button and voila.
Theres the link for the thing: Payload Injector Aliexpress
Okay it's not the in the same price as a rp2040-zero or tiny but if you exclude the tools and things you need to install the picofly then it's much more cheaper and you don't need to disassembly or solder anything on your switch.
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Last edited by Ragna666,
Yeah you can use a aitoinjector
https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ybitsy-m0-express-guide-files-support.508068/
I know everyone keeps suggesting trinkets, but why? RP2040 boards are cheaper.
Yes? Mine cost 3 USD and the installation do not need messing with the mmc nor dat0
I'm aware, but original does not equate with better. This is a Picofly thread after all, am I wrong?
Lmao well some people have problem with picofly, so that is enough to begin with, Trinket M0 was the only option if you wanted booting without a payload injector back in 2018.
To my knowledge, those who have had problems with picofly have determined either a faulty installation, a bad RP2040 board (replacing with new one fixed their issue), or a very infrequent improper firmware flash.
I am aware of the Trinket's vintage, and its value to the mod scene as a whole. It is definitely valid in the case of an unpatched V1. I really just figured that the question should not have even been asked by the original poster, considering it says right in the guide that picofly is compatible with ALL types of Switch.
A easy way to get those MOSFET sitting next to each other is : set the first MOSFET in position next to the emmc, then use some uvmask an ad a bit to the top and the right side and cure that, then u set the second MOSFET under the first one and add UV mask on the bottom and on the right side and cure that.
After that u can easy set the wire for the ground point and solder them :-).
That's how I do my installs
Like @lightninjay said.
There are no problems with the picofly if there is one its installesr fault or they have received a defective rp2040.
Its hard for some people to solder such points and burn the pads easy.
The problems hardware wise have been eliminated.
I've installed picofly on pretty much every available hardware (board/emmc) wise.
Every time I had a issue it was my fault.
Its hard for people to admit they made a mistake and say its the hardware.
Its never there fault
.
Sure trinket has its pros and cons and was the easiest way back in the days.
But these days we have cheaper options thanks to rehius and the rest of the community who made this possible.
So why not just use a pico on the v1 its easy to install sure its more points to solder.
And the solder points are all easy available on the v1 its not like the oled where u need a adapter or perm dat0 point.
I will say, this dual mosfet install was after a failed install of a CSD85301Q2 package, which is supposed to be a dual-mosfet setup in one single package. I'm pretty sure it was just my own failure at soldering it, but it failed in pretty spectacular fashion (the 36awg wire I'm using burned itself in two in multiple places).
Thus I went back to the dual MOSFET setup that I am used to (as seen in the photo) and there have been no issues.
The guy have a unpatched one.
It is a little bit pricier but he can buy a type c payload injector, that is the most easiest and safest method for unpatched v1 to inject payload without pc or phone.
Why suffer with the soldering when there are this method.
One favor the priest, one favor the priestess.
It's his choice.
From my viewpoint: it's a heresy to use a modchip in a unpatched switch.
With unpatched v1 he can save time and effort with just buy a payload injector instead of soldering a chip, and he's get the same result.
Once again, because this is a PICOFLY thread devoted to the PICOFLY mod.
Well its rather way a hassle I would also just add a pico and be done withit.
But he asked if its possible and yes it is , so go ahead and install that pico in the v1.
True storie :-)
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I will check if smaller value capacitor works.
I am using the WS2812b LED from rp2040zero. The one from seeed Xiao seems have different spec. Will check the difference as well.
Last edited by jkyoho,
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