Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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I can confirm there is no mosfet height issue on Lite.
For lcd issue, there is a big metal (yes metal so it can function as a mosfet heatsink if any) frame that separate the board and the lcd unit, so no issue.
My main enemy for this to be easier is this lcd flex connector, its hard to reattach at least for me.
And for Lite this method of instalation will take more time than the default SOC solder.
For thermal paste i say if the unit is new then just leave it as this will also make the soc header cover still in perfect condition.
View attachment 381989
In my experience of fpc/ppc, that connector is fragile.
Do not take it off using nail. That is the most common mistakes people do.
I bought cheap spudger for that. Use the appropriate tool was always the answer.

And luckily nintendo use a more rigid one for the lcd connector.


I don't think the mosfet even heat a little bit.
The high charge only flows in a range of microseconds (not continuous), and that also only in the boot process.

If heat is an issue, the lcd create ways more heat than the mosfet.
Also the lcd and cpu is the part that use the most batteries energy.
 

cgtchy0412

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Hey guys weird problem when I'm trying to reformat the switch I initialize data it takes like 15 minutes and then says error code: 2002-3540
An error has occurred
Please press the power button to restart the console. If you are
unable to restart the console, hold the POWER Button for 12 seconds
to turn off the console.
If the problem persists, refer to the Nintendo support Website.

The switch is on firmware 16.0.3
It's a v2 with picofly modchip just installed. I did not try formatting it before putting the chip in.
I'm booting it from the no SD card screen by pushing volume.

Just tried again in atmosphere this time same error but with the atmosphere logo and more info
Error code 2002-3540 (0x1ba802)
General purpose registers
PC: 00000078C37C534
Backtrace start address: 00000078C3C00000
With the default resistor value if you face software error then most likely it is installation issue. Examine all solder point on main board also on pico for any bridging, also try to move the Ground or 3.3v to other place, and last try to add another resistor on D0 and CMD gpio.
Post automatically merged:

In my experience of fpc/ppc, that connector is fragile.
Do not take it off using nail. That is the most common mistakes people do.
I bought cheap spudger for that. Use the appropriate tool was always the answer.

And luckily nintendo use a more rigid one for the lcd connector.


I don't think the mosfet even heat a little bit.
The high charge only flows in a range of microseconds (not continuous), and that also only in the boot process.

If heat is an issue, the lcd create ways more heat than the mosfet.
Also the lcd and cpu is the part that use the most batteries energy.
Yup it should be better with specific tool as you can control the force to open it with more precise, and minimizing the change to break the connector mechanism. For reattaching it though its a diifficult process, it takes full consentration :rofl2: or bam.. one of the pins will bent and you know what follow.
Anyone have tips for these reattach process ? as i see that the flex needs to be inserted vetically in the middle of connector, not on the bottom like every other flex on this mainboard.
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,

jkyoho

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TPN8R903NL single mosfet failed on me. So I switch back to 8342 but dual mosfets and it works. It might be the left Soc cap broke on right side and I didn't realize under solder mask. Will give a try with 8R903 again tomorrow.

FYI, out of luck it turns out sk hynix emmc came in the box. I think 256GB Samsung emmc will be in my shopping cart very soon.:blush:
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I bought both the stencils and curious how you use it with the solder balls? Any tips?
BTW, I tried with the magnetic jig and stencil with paste and it came out perfectly first try. I struggled so many times using paste and holding down the stencil with tweezers never worked.
Now I can mod my oled :)

Almost same path like this video but different ic, and I reflow the ball outside the fixture(big thermal heatsink if reflow on it)
 

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Last edited by jkyoho,

Jagovi

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Hi! Somebody could said to me the value / specs of those components (around the RST point).
Hi! The values of resistor are 4,7k, what about the third component ? I am not able to identify it. I am going to order it in AliExpress and I need to know the value because I damaged it. Thanks
 

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Dee87

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I need your help.
I'm installing Chinese modchip based on rp2040 in my Switch OLED.
All solder points show voltage drop 0,4-0,9V, but B (RST) shows nothing. Every source tells me it should be about 1.2V, yet even if I'm measuring RST point directly on board, it still shows nothing.

My Switch does not power on, modchip does not show any lights, very quiet repeating hiss can be heard a few times, but nothing besides that, console is dead. I've unsoldered 3,3V from modchip, console still does not turn on.

Do you have any ideas what could have happened?

Also a question about CPU flex soldering. If I measure capacitors I've soldered flex ribbon to (SP1 and SP2 points), my multimeter shows around 150uF on both. Is it correct?

USB current draw: 0,002A @ 15,36V after connecting charger, 0,021A @ 15,36V after pressing Power.
This has nothing to do with the rp2040.


What switch is it
Batteries connected?
0.21A is normally a sign of a dead emmc if I remember correctly. Doesn't go past first stage boot.
If u have the batteries connected and its not charging u might wanna check bq and M9 chip maybe also pi 3 for shorts on the caps
Post automatically merged:


TPN8R903NL single mosfet failed on me. So I switch back to 8342 but dual mosfets and it works. It might be the left Soc cap broke on right side and I didn't realize under solder mask. Will give a try with 8R903 again tomorrow.

FYI, out of luck it turns out sk hynix emmc came in the box. I think 256GB Samsung emmc will be in my shopping cart very soon.:blush:
Post automatically merged:



Almost same path like this video but different ic, and I reflow the ball outside the fixture(big thermal heatsink if reflow on it)

If u have a defective cap u can take one from the rp2040.
For the future I would try the resistor on the back with one MOSFET , @abal1000x discovered that it also works.
For know I'm still installing dual mosfet for customers on apu.
I did install one mosfet on the back of and it worked , I'm gonna do some testing how reliable it work after that I will only be installing one MOSFET on the back in the future
 
Last edited by Dee87,

jkyoho

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This has nothing to do with the rp2040.


What switch is it
Batteries connected?
0.21A is normally a sign of a dead emmc if I remember correctly. Doesn't go past first stage boot.
If u have the batteries connected and its not charging u might wanna check bq and M9 chip maybe also pi 3 for shorts on the caps
Post automatically merged:




If u have a defective cap u can take one from the rp2040.
For the future I would try the resistor on the back with one MOSFET , @abal1000x discovered that it also works.
For know I'm still installing dual mosfet for customers on apu.
I did install one mosfet on the back of and it worked , I'm gonna do some testing how reliable it work after that I will only be installing one MOSFET on the back in the future
hmm, I will give a shot.
update: Nope, back-side single mosfet failed on me just like my initial try on single top mosfet. ==*
I do think this thing is YMMV(indivisual CPU quality vary), but now I believe the strategy can be back side single mosfet 1st, then dual mosfet from top if backside failed.
 
Last edited by jkyoho,

Dee87

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hmm, I will give a shot.
update: Nope, back-side single mosfet failed on me just like my initial try on single top mosfet. ==*
I do think this thing is YMMV(indivisual CPU quality vary), but now I believe the strategy can be back side single mosfet 1st, then dual mosfet from top if backside failed.
First it didn't work for me eather but then I added a bit more solder and that help B-)
 

Dee87

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I think I would go for v2 flex if dual mosfet in need. Take me so much time prep&clean soldering dual mosfet manually . Waaaay more than I reball the eMMC even ball by ball

:wacko: :wacko:
well there ur playing the luck game if the work or not Xd.

im just gona stick do the way i do it with as less stuff i have to order from ali
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Hi

Just to know, what's the best awg wire for Slim or v2 console for Picofly ?
eather 0.1 or 0.2 what u feel more comfortable with. unexperienced i would say use 0.1 cause its harder to rip off a pad.

and for mosfets 0.2 mm
 
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sadish

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I recently bought a picofly chipped switch lite. When i boot it up the no sd card shows up as it should, but when i put the hats files on an micro sd and put it in the switch, it doesnt boot up anymore at all. What can I do? I already put the empty sd in the switch and it said it doesnt locate the payload, which means it can read the card, but just pure darkness with the files on the sd card
 

abal1000x

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I recently bought a picofly chipped switch lite. When i boot it up the no sd card shows up as it should, but when i put the hats files on an micro sd and put it in the switch, it doesnt boot up anymore at all. What can I do? I already put the empty sd in the switch and it said it doesnt locate the payload, which means it can read the card, but just pure darkness with the files on the sd card
What point you use for 3.3v? Its not the microsd right?
 
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Jagovi

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I need to know the specs of this diode. Somebody can help me?

Thanks!
 

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rehius

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I recently bought a picofly chipped switch lite. When i boot it up the no sd card shows up as it should, but when i put the hats files on an micro sd and put it in the switch, it doesnt boot up anymore at all. What can I do? I already put the empty sd in the switch and it said it doesnt locate the payload, which means it can read the card, but just pure darkness with the files on the sd card
It could be you've damaged the hardware during the installation. PicoFly loader does not require DRAM, but hekate does.

You can check that by pressing Vol+ / Vol- on the "No SD" screen - if you get a completely blue image, congratz, you have something broken, DRAM / Power / something else does not work.

Another approach is to run any other payload that does not require DRAM, like ums_loader
 

FreeLander

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Hello. I’m getting a slightly lower diode value than usual on dat0. 0.49v. The adaptor is one of the good ones. Does this value indicate possible short with dat1? I still didnt plug the battery, waiting for confirmation. Thank you all
 

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