Lol, even here i cannot find those 8342 in normal without going to aliexpress...
No, just black screen, only payload that works so far is ums-loader
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No, I never got to hekate, not once, just get a back screen. Glitching okay, about 1-2 seconds of blue light short yellow, no sd card screen. After that I can only launch ums-loader. Hekate gives black screen and OFW blue screen. I can mount GPP, boot1 and 2 from ums-loader, but windows doesn't recognize them, but I tried the same with my unpatched switch and same result. So I have to assume it's neither the APU or the eMMC. That leaves the DRAM modules, but the switch never fell, I never even worked near that area, all traces seem clean by eye and by photo, I don't understand how I could've ruined the DRAM modules.
Last edited by roxzii,
Like, solder debris or particles leaved by soldering iron can get stuck under apu or dram. Which can cause short on these components.
So i tried the aon6554 mosfet on an oled today. Reball was a breeze with the reball jig. But the mosfet didn't work. Had a 1k pull down on it and thought maybe it was the issue. Removed that and nothing. Same issue. Cyan light, cpu line error. cleaned up solder points, checked cap values, all good. Put everything back and still same. Either its probably a dud mosfet or the mosfet is not that great for this mod. Ended up using a spare filthy nasty cpu flex cable....yuck. did it so quick and and the pico glitched so its not my soldering and thank god I have a good run with reballs and oled so far. Looking for a solid mosfet that doesn't need a dual build.
So anyone ever tried that mosfet before?
edit - oh wait, does it matter if its installed face up or face down? Was I being a doofus this whole time? Herers a pic if anyone can spot a mistake i may or may not have made.
(Solder mask blob down the middle was to secure it down and stop it moving around.)
So anyone ever tried that mosfet before?
edit - oh wait, does it matter if its installed face up or face down? Was I being a doofus this whole time? Herers a pic if anyone can spot a mistake i may or may not have made.
(Solder mask blob down the middle was to secure it down and stop it moving around.)
Last edited by Takezo-San,
.
I am assuming that this is the orientation, so 1st pin bottom right (please check since I cannot see the mark on the mosftet from the picture)
Anyway, I think there is something else at play here.
The mosfets that work (tested by me) example IRF8342 has a total gate charge Qg of 4.2; AON7506 Qg 4.3; AON7518 Qg 6.9; IRF8714 Qg 8.1 while the one you are using AON6554 has the Qg of 21.3
@abal1000x what are your thoughts about this?
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The AON6554 has only one G terminal the other 3 below it are S so as long as you did not bridge the 3 and 4 together you should be OK as far as wiring goes (see picture).
I am assuming that this is the orientation, so 1st pin bottom right (please check since I cannot see the mark on the mosftet from the picture)
Anyway, I think there is something else at play here.
The mosfets that work (tested by me) example IRF8342 has a total gate charge Qg of 4.2; AON7506 Qg 4.3; AON7518 Qg 6.9; IRF8714 Qg 8.1 while the one you are using AON6554 has the Qg of 21.3
@abal1000x what are your thoughts about this?
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Sorry, not sure if I translated well. (by google)
I ask if I can proceed with the installation.
On the right side where there is more tin, I scratched the PCB to bring out the copper and have a better solder.
I await confirmation before proceeding, thanks.
Although Rehius explained why this should not be an issue in this case, the article you posted was a very good read and the best explanation on some aspects of mosfets that I have read. Didn't know about this website, it has some very nice articles, thank you
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The soldering looks very good, I think you are good to go.
Last edited by QuiTim,
Agreed, that's a very nice read.
This still should not be an issue in this case. As per Rehius's words, the current is limited by the firmware.
I know you never said anything about it being a problem, but I belive people reading your quote should get the full picture to avoid panic
Puzzled... I have a bunch of these aon . these are my main arsenal now, probably installed 10 units, single mosfet everytime. Although i never done an oled yet.
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Well, that pretty much rules out the Qg theory then since if you got just one working then the problem it's likely a result of other variables.
Let's wait for @Takezo-San comment for the soldering part, or maybe it was just a bad mosfet.
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You are right, I will amend my original postAgreed, that's a very nice read.
This still should not be an issue in this case. As per Rehius's words, the current is limited by the firmware.
I know you never said anything about it being a problem, but I belive people reading your quote should get the full picture to avoid panic
Can you guys please take a look at the video and help me decode what the errors are saying? It looks like a D0 problem, but I’m not entirely sure.
This feels a bit different from a 2.74 firmware instability issue.
It started with being able to glitch after disconnecting the batter for 6 hours. Then I received this 2618 error on atmosphere and I can no longer glitch the switch even after disconnecting the battery for 6 hours. So confused @.@
This feels a bit different from a 2.74 firmware instability issue.
It started with being able to glitch after disconnecting the batter for 6 hours. Then I received this 2618 error on atmosphere and I can no longer glitch the switch even after disconnecting the battery for 6 hours. So confused @.@
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If i may add, with aon i never done double mosfet or even double caps, it always works with single mosfet soldered to single caps. Maybe already done about 30 ish switch.
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Try directly solder dat0 to gpio pin.
The error clearly is dat0 not connected =*
Can you check on dat0? Try to redo that one more time. The Atmo error also looks to be related to that.
Gpio pin? Which one is that?
Okay, so it might be this problem then
The previous technician installed the d0 adapter like this (in the picture). When I took it to the new technician, he reconnected everything, but I’m not sure he’s aware the d0 adapter was installed somewhat awkwardly.
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Ok, so that is one of the worst dat0 adapters currently available and most likely the source of at least 70% of all Oled problems in this thread.Gpio pin? Which one is that?
Okay, so it might be this problem then
The previous technician installed the d0 adapter like this (in the picture). When I took it to the new technician, he reconnected everything, but I’m not sure he’s aware the d0 adapter was installed somewhat awkwardly.
First, you need to move the wire away from that very sharp edge of the emmc shield since it might scratch the enamel coating of the wire and create a short (see point 1 in picture)
Second, the dat0 adapter seems too far to the right and at this point it might have lost the contact with dat0 point on emmc. That adapter is supposed to a little bit offset to the right but not that much.
You should try to push it a little bit on the directions of arrows (see nr2 in picture) but only by around 0.5mm or so and see if it works.
In any case, you need to change that adapter if you hope to resolve this issue permanently.
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Very much appreciate this. I had a creeping feeling this might be the problem, but was trying to cope that it wasn’t
. Is it the black d0 adapter that’s recommended?The soldering it's ok.
The scheme is correct?
There are no schematics in the guide for the MOSFET on the back of the logic board. I found images a few pages behind but not being in the guides or even in the main pages, I ask for confirmation.
Also I understand they are experimental installations, right?
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that's 2.2uF cap. way too much value, where I'm using 0.1uF. yours are 22x capacity which takes longer time charge&discharge so LED sequence seems weird.
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