Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

twins333

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ok, can you tell me how the resistor would be connected to according to this: Add a > 1K pulldown resistor from gate to ground.
If I remember correctly, the pulldown resistor installed on the mosfet is not needed for the glitch. It is just an extra precaution to protect the rp2040 board if the mosfet burns out. Make sure your points are clean, you should use more solder on the mosfet and clean your flux or use no-clean flux. Check for shorts to ground and double measure everything. If you follow these points and the guide you should be fine. redo the install if needed, post pictures if you need help. Good luck!
 

detilmalala

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If I remember correctly, the pulldown resistor installed on the mosfet is not needed for the glitch. It is just an extra precaution to protect the rp2040 board if the mosfet burns out. Make sure your points are clean, you should use more solder on the mosfet and clean your flux or use no-clean flux. Check for shorts to ground and double measure everything. If you follow these points and the guide you should be fine. redo the install if needed, post pictures if you need help. Good luck!
thanks for your answer,
I have done hundreds of installations with a mosfet (IRFHS8342), but with the IRF8714 there is no case, and I thought that this resistor was necessary

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

Evil_Case

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that little one goes to the emmc socket I circled, You could either fix it like the way you already did or make a big jumper to the top 2nd pin on the EMMC soket right rail
Bro your a life saver thank you so much i tried 2 professionals to take a look and they didnt got it, you just saved me in a 5 mins DIY XD love you bro
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that little one goes to the emmc socket I circled, You could either fix it like the way you already did or make a big jumper to the top 2nd pin on the EMMC soket right rail
Soo, let's pretend that I didn't ripped off the rest of the rst trace(the one on the right) is there any way to connect to another place? ( almost crying because I forgot to put resin on top of it🥲)
 
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Crung

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Are there any 20-100R resistors on the V1/V2 motherboardboard? i need one ASAP if anybody knows. Ill also get to measuring in the meantime
Could i get away with 70R or 130 R on dat0/cmd?
 
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Evil_Case

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Any one know here the rst trace close to the emmc conector come from? I have ripped it and cannot make the solder stick to it.v1 switch
 

Evil_Case

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abal1000x

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I tested that the emmc connector lead to that upper point on the bottom but I need to find where it come from to get to this red arrow(I need to make a bypass
Through each layer in between.

If you want to know, @Hassal just share file on pcb scan for each layer.
Search his post, or search on this thread.

blue rst.png

Look that blue line, that is the reset connected through each layer.
 
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Darkspade

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For me it is safer to drill than to lift the nand. Not everyone has a good soldering station, the nand can break due to heat, break when handling it, break a pad, a lot of dirt spread by the flux, and thermal stress in general. It is very likely that the board will end up broken due to not knowing how to recover a pad or the chip itself. A jumper under the chip by joining dots, you connect the battery and goodbye. It is a job that is not paid, the client does not care if you install an adapter or a fixed point, if the adapter comes loose, the problem lies with the installer. Drilling is cheaper, cleaner, safer and you get the same result. A fixed point.
I really like this. So much better then the Adapter. Is there is a template you use or just roughly the same spot. Thx.
 
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BlueBeans

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Having some difficulties with this OLED. I keep getting the *=* (no Emmc block 0). I’ve tried two different Dat0 connectors, reconnected everything , and it still the same. Readings are:
Dat0- .483
CMD- .636
CLK- .656
 

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Hassal

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Having some difficulties with this OLED. I keep getting the *=* (no Emmc block 0). I’ve tried two different Dat0 connectors, reconnected everything , and it still the same. Readings are:
Dat0- .483
CMD- .636
CLK- .656
Two things
You have a spot of flux
The adapter is no good. I doubt you even have it aligned
 
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CarlosCruz

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I really like this. So much better then the Adapter. Is there is a template you use or just roughly the same spot. Thx.

Always in the same place, I go slowly completing each layer and cleaning to be able to see, a drop of liquid flux to hydrate and to be able to see through the layers. I scratch the line just enough with a pin and reveal it. Green nask around, flux, tin, I connected an enameled wire and secured it with hreen mask, first the hole and then the run. A slight tug tears off the line.

Yesterday doing internships I managed to change a SKhynix nand for a Samsung and restore the backup, take the opportunity to put enameled wire and get a permanent line.
 

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LuigiGad

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All flux has been cleaned and I’ve used more than one adapter. Has to be something else.
But does it boot original? It may be that the ball of the DAT0 has deformed and that the tongs of the adapter are touching several points below the eMMC. Try cutting the left fork if you use the adapter
 

BlueBeans

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But does it boot original? It may be that the ball of the DAT0 has deformed and that the tongs of the adapter are touching several points below the eMMC. Try cutting the left fork if you use the adapter
It was late last night so I didn’t try getting it to boot into ofw. Do I need to disconnect the whole thing? I did a reflow on it and I still get the same readings.
 

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