Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

deathnotejacoby

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If the Partition Table is empty, then yes, your eMMC also got erased by the pico update process. If you have a backup, restore it.
i dont have a backup .. damn .. that it i can used it for paperweight. And maybe the only solution was a 200ohms on Dat0 .. maybe ..
Why did this happen? from upgrade to 2.73 was no problem anymore from 2.73 to 2.75 it deleteds your eemc?
 

jkyoho

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i dont have a backup .. damn .. that it i can used it for paperweight. And maybe the only solution was a 200ohms on Dat0 .. maybe ..
Why did this happen? from upgrade to 2.73 was no problem anymore from 2.73 to 2.75 it deleteds your eemc?
NEVER, AFAIK retrain pfly DOES NOT touch EMMC data unless you have different clone or wiring
 
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Hassal

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i dont have a backup .. damn .. that it i can used it for paperweight. And maybe the only solution was a 200ohms on Dat0 .. maybe ..
Why did this happen? from upgrade to 2.73 was no problem anymore from 2.73 to 2.75 it deleteds your eemc?
If you already made an emuNAND and still able to access it you can still salvage the system by pulling your prodinfo from that rawnand backup. Get your console keys and extract the prodinfo from emuNAND and start rebuilding your sysNAND.
 

deathnotejacoby

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If you already made an emuNAND and still able to access it you can still salvage the system by pulling your prodinfo from that rawnand backup. Get your console keys and extract the prodinfo from emuNAND and start rebuilding your sysNAND.
I dont have a emunand. I only start cfw with fuse.bin. I dont create a dump.

i´m wondering that after the upgrade was the emmc delted. It was upgrade finished and then reboot to hekate.

the cables are still ok.
 

Karichi1919

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Brand new modchip installation, I'm getting =*== eMMC test failure - read failed. It's an OLED switch, boots fine in OFW.

I used the alternative Dat0 soldering point by grinding through the layers. I know I didn't damage anything because as I said it works well in OFW.
To debug it I've individually desoldered each wire until the error didn't change. Found out that turning the console on without the CPU wire also yielded =*== eMMC test failure - read failed

So then I've tried:
  • Testing my CPU adapter with a bench power supply, found that it works
  • Redoing the CPU caps soldering, it was already well done
  • Redoing the soldering at the modchip side, same issue
  • Using 94 Ohm resistors on CMD and DAT0, same issue
  • Using another known working modchip, same issue
  • Measuring diode readings, they're all within 0.5-0.7V and RST is 1.7V
Any advice? Thank you.
 
Last edited by Karichi1919,

FelpaAzzurra

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I'm getting =*== eMMC test failure - read failed. It's an OLED switch, boots fine in OFW.

I used the alternative Dat0 soldering point by grinding through the layers. I know I didn't damage anything because as I said it works well in OFW.
To debug it I've individually desoldered each wire until the error didn't change. Found out that turning the console on without the CPU wire also yielded =*== eMMC test failure - read failed

So then I've tried:
  • Testing my CPU adapter with a bench power supply, found that it works
  • Redoing the CPU caps soldering, it was already well done
  • Redoing the soldering at the modchip side, same issue
  • Using another known working modchip, same issue
  • Measuring diode readings, they're all within 0.5-0.7V and RST is 1.7V
Any advice? Thank you.
Ho avuto lo stesso problema, spegni, aspetta 30 sec e riaccendi, prima o poi riandra', quando andra' reflasha l'ultimo firmware. Questo ha fixato il problema almeno per me

I had the same problem, turn off, wait 30 seconds and turn back on, sooner or later it will come back, when it goes it will reflash the latest firmware. This fixed the problem at least for me
 

Karichi1919

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Ho avuto lo stesso problema, spegni, aspetta 30 sec e riaccendi, prima o poi riandra', quando andra' reflasha l'ultimo firmware. Questo ha fixato il problema almeno per me

I had the same problem, turn off, wait 30 seconds and turn back on, sooner or later it will come back, when it goes it will reflash the latest firmware. This fixed the problem at least for me
Hey, that isn't going to work unfortunately. If I can't get a reliable start now I will always doubt the reliability later on. Either way no, that hasn't helped unfortunately. I have already flashed the latest firmware anyway, since this is a new install.
 

FelpaAzzurra

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Hey, that isn't going to work unfortunately. If I can't get a reliable start now I will always doubt the reliability later on. Either way no, that hasn't helped unfortunately. I have already flashed the latest firmware anyway, since this is a new install.
I know, it happened to me too, one time it worked after a day just try like once every hour if you can, if you installed it good it will work, then when you're in hekate re update the chip with the latest fw
 

remlei

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The Switch starts normally in Hekat but not in OFW, the Nintendo logo appears and then nothing.
It was no problem creating CFW. Athomspäre starts normally and you can install games.
When you start the OFW nothing works, only a hard reset then it starts up in Hekate. If you restart the CFW via the menu
you want to get back to the OFW boot logo... Hard reset then go to Hekate.
Very strange.

Error code is the following:

short short long is called
No eMMC block 1 read (should not happen)

I actually have that **= error code as well but in my case it just straights up boot to OFW when it does fail to glitch.

Out of 20 reboots, theres a chance that 1-2 times of it gets a failed glitch with **= error code with my OLED switch which leads its a dat0 issue? but the connections are good they said.

I already sent it to get it reworked by the installer and it seems the error doesnt go away, the emmc is reballed with that green pcb adapter sandwich in between the motherboard and the emmc chip. they also go as far as changing everything and go as far as reballing it for the 2nd time with the same error.

in the end, i just lived up with it and its only like 1 out of 20 tries it failed to glitch anyway. I also flashed the rp2040 with 2.75 firmware linked here, tried downgrading to 2.73 and the error becomes erroneous this time and basically randomly throw error codes all over the place every time it fails to glitch and boot directly to OFW.

fast forward to this day, my OLED switch is now swapped out with HWFLY modchip instead, not a RP2040 based, and this time, the glitch never fails. same wires, flex cable on cpu is also the same, just different modchip.

So my speculation is that, rp2040 maybe needs more research to deal with this issue not glitching some of the switches or have erratic failed glitches.
 

abal1000x

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Brand new modchip installation, I'm getting =*== eMMC test failure - read failed. It's an OLED switch, boots fine in OFW.

I used the alternative Dat0 soldering point by grinding through the layers. I know I didn't damage anything because as I said it works well in OFW.
To debug it I've individually desoldered each wire until the error didn't change. Found out that turning the console on without the CPU wire also yielded =*== eMMC test failure - read failed

So then I've tried:
  • Testing my CPU adapter with a bench power supply, found that it works
  • Redoing the CPU caps soldering, it was already well done
  • Redoing the soldering at the modchip side, same issue
  • Using 94 Ohm resistors on CMD and DAT0, same issue
  • Using another known working modchip, same issue
  • Measuring diode readings, they're all within 0.5-0.7V and RST is 1.7V
Any advice? Thank you.
OFW works means the connection from emmc to the nvidia cpu is okay.

The read test error because the pico cant read the emmc data.
So the flow of the program is (i may forgot, i remember have saying this in older post):
1. the firmware check the voltage for each line which could be checked such as cmd, d0, etc. If error will throws error
2. check the emmc read/write
3. read the emmc to check whether the sdloader exist, if not then write the sdloader to the emmc (the white light which should only appear once time)
4. Do the glitch
5. Wait for glitch response, if error throws the code light. If glitch response found but failed to glitch, repeat number 4 with different glitch point, until found or exhaust the whole point. If the whole point exhuast throws the light error code.
6. The glitch succeed, run the sdloader on the emmc. Shows the nosd on the screen.

Your case are stopped in step number 2. So its not about mosfet or whatever. The glitch doesn't even running yet.
You need to check the cmd/d0/clk to your pico board. I think you grind a wrong point of dat0, try to make sure of it.
 

Karichi1919

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OFW works means the connection from emmc to the nvidia cpu is okay.

The read test error because the pico cant read the emmc data.
So the flow of the program is (i may forgot, i remember have saying this in older post):
1. the firmware check the voltage for each line which could be checked such as cmd, d0, etc. If error will throws error
2. check the emmc read/write
3. read the emmc to check whether the sdloader exist, if not then write the sdloader to the emmc (the white light which should only appear once time)
4. Do the glitch
5. Wait for glitch response, if error throws the code light. If glitch response found but failed to glitch, repeat number 4 with different glitch point, until found or exhaust the whole point. If the whole point exhuast throws the light error code.
6. The glitch succeed, run the sdloader on the emmc. Shows the nosd on the screen.

Your case are stopped in step number 2. So its not about mosfet or whatever. The glitch doesn't even running yet.
You need to check the cmd/d0/clk to your pico board. I think you grind a wrong point of dat0, try to make sure of it.
That's exactly what happened. I soldered to some weird place which I have no idea what it is. I'll probably do the reball method and call it a day.
 

abal1000x

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I actually have that **= error code as well but in my case it just straights up boot to OFW when it does fail to glitch.

Out of 20 reboots, theres a chance that 1-2 times of it gets a failed glitch with **= error code with my OLED switch which leads its a dat0 issue? but the connections are good they said.

I already sent it to get it reworked by the installer and it seems the error doesnt go away, the emmc is reballed with that green pcb adapter sandwich in between the motherboard and the emmc chip. they also go as far as changing everything and go as far as reballing it for the 2nd time with the same error.

in the end, i just lived up with it and its only like 1 out of 20 tries it failed to glitch anyway. I also flashed the rp2040 with 2.75 firmware linked here, tried downgrading to 2.73 and the error becomes erroneous this time and basically randomly throw error codes all over the place every time it fails to glitch and boot directly to OFW.

fast forward to this day, my OLED switch is now swapped out with HWFLY modchip instead, not a RP2040 based, and this time, the glitch never fails. same wires, flex cable on cpu is also the same, just different modchip.

So my speculation is that, rp2040 maybe needs more research to deal with this issue not glitching some of the switches or have erratic failed glitches.
The thing with rp2040 is its simply cheap.
hwfly used fpga which is way more costly compare to the rp2040.
rehius just do something that for me is a 'magic'.
i laugh at first, for me, its impossible for rp2040 could contend with fpga.
But he did it anyway, and worked.
You have no idea, how awesome is that.

This is achieved by overclocking the rp2040.
Of course stability wont be as impressive as fpga with a dedicated clock.
But again is way cheaper than fpga.

Right now the cheapest fpga we could play around is made by sipeed.
And the time invest is not worth at all.
I rather stick with the cheap rp2040.
For people that want perfection just used fpga,
For me its not worth spending money for a perfect Boot probability.
I rarely boot my switch, just play the game.
 

remlei

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The thing with rp2040 is its simply cheap.
hwfly used fpga which is way more costly compare to the rp2040.
rehius just do something that for me is a 'magic'.
i laugh at first, for me, its impossible for rp2040 could contend with fpga.
But he did it anyway, and worked.
You have no idea, how awesome is that.

This is achieved by overclocking the rp2040.
Of course stability wont be as impressive as fpga with a dedicated clock.
But again is way cheaper than fpga.

Right now the cheapest fpga we could play around is made by sipeed.
And the time invest is not worth at all.
I rather stick with the cheap rp2040.
For people that want perfection just used fpga,
For me its not worth spending money for a perfect Boot probability.
I rarely boot my switch, just play the game.

so is it normal for rp2040 to fail to glitch sometimes?
just wanna know about it based on you guys who probably worked on this as a day job or something.

its not like im belittling amazing works you guys gave with rp2040 modchip, but the amount of expense I made for the backjob is just..... not amusing at all.
 

abal1000x

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so is it normal for rp2040 to fail to glitch sometimes?
just wanna know about it based on you guys who probably worked on this as a day job or something.

its not like im belittling amazing works you guys gave with rp2040 modchip, but the amount of expense I made for the backjob is just..... not amusing at all.
I am not a professional modder. Just a hobbist hacker, spending my weekend time for some fun.
I have do this on like 5-10 device. Lite, v1, v2, oled, i've done on all of it. All always glitch on every boot.

The problem is not that sometimes its not glitch. But sometimes it glitch longer. The normal glitch time is 3sec. But sometimes the saved point is somehow didn't work, and the firmware need to find another point, which could be around 5-20secs.

When i am experiment with the dat0 flex on oled, theres couple of time that the glitch sometimes work, sometimes DIDN'T (the glitch exhaust the whole point, wait until around 1minutes). The unstability is because of the dat0 flex. The most stable one for me is using the emmc adapter.
 

remlei

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I am not a professional modder. Just a hobbist hacker, spending my weekend time for some fun.
I have do this on like 5-10 device. Lite, v1, v2, oled, i've done on all of it. All always glitch on every boot.

The problem is not that sometimes its not glitch. But sometimes it glitch longer. The normal glitch time is 3sec. But sometimes the saved point is somehow didn't work, and the firmware need to find another point, which could be around 5-20secs.

When i am experiment with the dat0 flex on oled, theres couple of time that the glitch sometimes work, sometimes DIDN'T (the glitch exhaust the whole point, wait until around 1minutes). The unstability is because of the dat0 flex. The most stable one for me is using the emmc adapter.
the installer of my modchip actually installed this on emmc

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=ht...bp&s=6541b107c6e62dba6676dcbd9f15041f25a5e8a6

I think that should be more than good enough to have good contact with dat0 right? And yes even with that adapter rp2040 somtimes fails to glitch with random error code on 2.73 and **= on 2.75
 

abal1000x

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the installer of my modchip actually installed this on emmc

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https://preview.redd.it/wyx983dktp3b1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6541b107c6e62dba6676dcbd9f15041f25a5e8a6

I think that should be more than good enough to have good contact with dat0 right? And yes even with that adapter rp2040 somtimes fails to glitch with random error code on 2.73 and **= on 2.75
random error code on 2.73? That for sure something is not stable on the emmc line.

If it also stopped you from going into ofw, then the emmc is faulty or the line between the emmc to the cpu is faulty.

If its not (you always goes to ofw when failed), then my best guess is its a bad picofly board.
What i am sure is the quality of rp2040 or tiny from waveshare. Other than that i don't know.
You need to read the schematic of the board, especially on the clock they used.
Picofly using overclocked rp2040, so make sure the crystal is good enough to supply the rp2040.
 

deathnotejacoby

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NEVER, AFAIK retrain pfly DOES NOT touch EMMC data unless you have different clone or wiring

Do you upgrade your console with picoflytoolbox? I upgrade it from 2.73 to 2.75.
It was succesfull (this was wrote after the upgrade) after that i restarte the cosole. Than i start ofw and get a error message. Partition table is empty
Without chip i get a purble screen. i check the firmware and it was still on 2.73 .... so the upgrade was not succesfull.
this is not my first upgrad with picofly toolbox but my first with 2.75....
i upgrade it with my pc and works. Now my picofly is on 2.75 but the eemc is empty and purble screen.
Post automatically merged:

and i used a rp tiny
 

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Hey fellas. I attempted to install a PicoFly clone off AliExpress today. It went well, expect like an idiot I let a tiny resistor fly off the board while tidying up. I now get a purple screen on boot.

From my googling it appears it's a 4.7k ohm 5% resistor. Is that right? Specifically the ones in aliexpress "100pcs/lot SMD Chip Resistor 0201 10K Ohm 5% 1/8W Chip Resistors"

Thank you
 

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