Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[lufeig]

Is this the 'latest'/preferred OLED chip? I don't see a USB debug cable on this....

This

 

[sean222]

Thanks!

 

[james194zt2]

@HenryMin What is the blue wire you are using? Do you have a link where you got it from, looks really good and getting decent wire that looks good for these jobs is a bit of a nightmare!

 

[Donnie-Burger]

@HenryMin What is the blue wire you are using? Do you have a link where you got it from, looks really good and getting decent wire that looks good for these jobs is a bit of a nightmare!

Kynar AWG 30 is a good. In fact its better than the enamled wire you see in a lot of the installs. The enamel coating can srape off very easily and cause problems, I wouldn't doubt some failed installs are from this. I only use the enameled / non enameled wire for trace repairs like usb c port or hdmi etc.

 

[KaiN69420]

Were you replying to me? If so, all the videos I see and other posts say it should reading around 2.9 in diode mode and I get nothing, nothing on chip and nothing on motherboard. Here are my readings if anyone can point me in the right direction, or if I should just trash it and start over:

DAT0- 805
CMD- 404
CLK- 596
RST - No Reading

Looks like its just dead. I tried replacing the DAT0 adapter, and doing USB debugging, but I keep getting BAD0010D. I installed the board back in the switch and I get no screen or fan when powering on.

 

[de9ed]

Were you replying to me? If so, all the videos I see and other posts say it should reading around 2.9 in diode mode and I get nothing, nothing on chip and nothing on motherboard. Here are my readings if anyone can point me in the right direction, or if I should just trash it and start over:

DAT0- 805
CMD- 404
CLK- 596
RST - No Reading

reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
dat0 = 420
cmd/clk = 400
rst = 380

 

[KaiN69420]

reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
dat0 = 420
cmd/clk = 400
rst = 380

I was doing red on points, black on ground, but it should read the same way I believe

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Kynar AWG 30 is a good. In fact its better than the enamled wire you see in a lot of the installs. The enamel coating can srape off very easily and cause problems, I wouldn't doubt some failed installs are from this. I only use the enameled / non enameled wire for trace repairs like usb c port or hdmi etc.

I used 32 for most of mine... I wouldn't recommend it, 36 is the way to go.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Looks like its just dead. I tried replacing the DAT0 adapter, and doing USB debugging, but I keep getting BAD0010D. I installed the board back in the switch and I get no screen or fan when powering on.

Does the LED flash green? if it does and your not getting any display, insert an SD Card with the necessary files.

 

[KaiN69420]

Does the LED flash green? if it does and your not getting any display, insert an SD Card with the necessary files.

Never got green, only glitching (flashing blue, then solid red or white). All the reading seem right, no shorts. Everyone says it’s DAT0, but I tested several times, even removed and replaced the adapter and I get ~800 in diode mode every time, on the adapter and on the modchip side as well. Wish we knew what the USB debugging codes meant.

 

[KaiN69420]

reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
dat0 = 420
cmd/clk = 400
rst = 380

So with red on ground and black on the points I get:

DAT0 - 494
CLK- 493
CMD- 416
RST- 458

 

[de9ed]

I was doing red on points, black on ground, but it should read the same way I believe

So with red on ground and black on the points I get:

DAT0 - 494
CLK- 493
CMD- 416
RST- 458

Could it be a bad chip, I had 1 bad chip in 20 chips.

 

[KaiN69420]

Could it be a bad chip, I had 1 bad chip in 20 chips.

I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing. I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board. I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board

 

[de9ed]

I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing. I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board. I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board

if you need someone to install it, let me know.

 

[OrganixXx]

I used 32 for most of mine... I wouldn't recommend it, 36 is the way to go.

So small? No problems with connection?

 

[KaiN69420]

I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing. I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board. I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board

So I think my issue was with the CLK point. It keeps beeping with multimeter so I think it’s grounded or a short. The problem is this copper stuff around the point where I scratched the CLK, the solder wants to stick to that and it’s grounded. Did I scratch too deep or not enough?

 

[lufeig]

So I think my issue was with the CLK point. It keeps beeping with multimeter so I think it’s grounded or a short. The problem is this copper stuff around the point where I scratched the CLK, the solder wants to stick to that and it’s grounded. Did I scratch too deep or not enough?

Looks like too much. Compare yours to this one.

 

[KaiN69420]

Looks like too much. Compare yours to this one.

Yea, so if that's the case what can I do? Just buy a new one?

 

[lufeig]

This is what I would do:

Remove the applied UV mask. Remove the solder that is causing the short. Uninstall the modchip. Try to turn the console on. If it doesn’t turn on, fix it or send it to someone qualified to do it.

After it’s working again, I would think again if I would try to hack it myself again or send it to someone qualified to do it for me.

 

[KaiN69420]

If anyone needs a Switch OLED donor board DM me. I also have an HWFLY Lite as well. Probably need another cable set for it though.