(provided that no one discovers a method like in the past 5 years)
Here’s another one for $10 more than the one with the broken reader. Says loud fan…that is totally fixable, provided nothing else is wrong:Gotcha prob best to avoid buying a faulty switch then
Im still hoping that an unpatched switch miraculously turns up on facebook lol
Be a lot cheaper than ebay
By "method" I mean "softmod for mariko switches".Completely wrong, there are few methods RCM, Patched unit under 4.1.0 and Modchip unit, not that no one discovered a method in the past 5 years.
By "method" I mean "softmod for mariko switches".
Huh, OLED models really take that much longer to boot?I have my first Erista which bricked due to a hardware issue, my Mariko which used to have a SX Core but I transferred that to an OLED. I let people borrow my Mariko now if friends want to try a game but don't own a Switch. I had an OLED for about 2 weeks but a mod chip installer bricked the CPU by soldering to the wrong pad, and I bought a new OLED to replace that which I now use. Imo the Mariko model with an original SX Core was best because it had both good boot times (unlike OLED) and good battery life (unlike Erista). Imo you should buy your kids a Switch Lite and keep the current console for yourself. I bought my sister a Lite and not being able to dock the console doesn't bother her. If your kids really want to dock the console I'd give them the current one and buy yourself a cheap Mariko with a (preferably non-cloned) SX Core.
Edit: Also I'm trying to get my hands on an SDEV or HDEV model for collectors purposes if anyone can hook me up.
I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.Huh, OLED models really take that much longer to boot?
I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.
Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.
This doesn't sound normal from the discussion I've seen. I hope you can get it sorted, maybe some of the expert installers around here can help.I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.
Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.
I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.
Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.
A Switch Pro this late? lol.If a Switch Pro ever sees the light of day, I'll sell my unhacked one.
I probably got unlucky with a hard to glitch system then. The person who did it for me doesn't want it to be publicly known that they do installs (fear of getting a C&D) but they're definitely someone who would do a good job. They're someone who's well known for the research they did in to how the chips work.I've seen people posting here talking about hard to glitch korean oled systems. Or your modder just did a shitty job.
I've given up hope at this point. I've had it for around 6 months now and I've tried just about everything I can think of other than putting a different chip in there, but that would require shipping it back to my installer and I'm on a limited budget being a student (I've already wasted upwards of £600 on OLED stuff at this point which is a significant amount of my disposable income). It doesn't really matter though, the only homebrews I've made that people actually use are Amiigo (which is fine as is) and my cloud save manager, but JKSV is working on adding cloud saves to his save manager now so my manager will be redundant soon enough.This doesn't sound normal from the discussion I've seen. I hope you can get it sorted, maybe some of the expert installers around here can help.