then there was a issue with ur soldering
if gave 5xlites,10x V1/v2,6 xOleds and never had ANY Issue with a install
if gave 5xlites,10x V1/v2,6 xOleds and never had ANY Issue with a install
Maybe was that but i think it was one of my best installs i made...i removed the chip and wires and theres the bsod... i think i will try to load hekate and see if the emmc is fine..
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Actually the only thing diferent i did was solderint the clk point in the alternate point...because its very close to the cmd point there next to emmc
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So I was able to get the switch reassembled without the picofly installed but it still does not power up. I do not see any bridged solder connections anywhere everything looks right. The cap that was knocked off was reinstalled.
Pressing the power button result in no activity no fans spin up
Last edited by Zm1231,
Can i find resistors 0201 in a pc mother board? I need the ones near the rst point onde switch lite
Hello, I am trying to place the picofly in my oled switch, I have an error in the clk or the CMD, the leds are really very similar. The detail is that if I measure the clk with the multimeter it gives me a value of approx 600kohm and if I measure the CMD it gives me a value of approx 600kohm, the measurements were made without any cable, are these values ok? What do you recommend I do to make the picofly work on my oled switch? I'm using the 2.67 firmware.
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SOLVED - THX @abal1000x
Thanks for the tip. Even though the problem wasn't directly solved by her, it helped me to look more closely at the signs and I learned a lot. There were many things I did, and I hope it helps someone in the future.
1 - The tip about voltage disturbance was excellent. I started going by elimination. I removed the SXCORE V2 cable I had been using and made my own set of mosfets. Apparently it wasn't the cable, but under the microscope, my welds were a mess, and I redid everything. The tip served to make me more aware of the voltage variation at the DAT, CMD and CLK points.
2- I built my own mosfet cable and it's infinitely better. Ultimately, I had used the SXCORE cable out of sheer laziness. Perhaps he was in fact responsible for the initial problem, since I believe that my soldering on the two central pins of the cable was questionable, but I ended up removing it anyway.
3- Thermal Paste (silver arctic) could be the problem. I believe that silver-rich paste, which is an excellent electrical conductor, might have fuck*d my solders. Perhaps the culprit for the electrical disturbance. Even cleaning well with IPA, there are always "shadows", which made me consider removing the entire switch mainboard and submitting it to sonic cleaning. I changed the Silver arctic for a common White Paste, the silicone base for PC.
4- The real culprit (?): The misfitted/installed nintendo switch oled cartridge and SD module, and with a bent pin. The first installation I used a 30awg wire, which ran under the sd module connector. I believe that cable ended up lifting the board and bent a pin on the side. Another thing that contributed was the wrong positioning of the heatsink, which was too far to the left and contributed to the misalignment of the connector, and thus the bad connection and finally, the error "failed to int sd card".
Best Regards.
This has me questioning myself now. https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10160786
Been reading far back trying to catch up to the current times. I am gathering the parts to install this PicoFly so am just playing with flashing the PicoFly firmware.
Current PicoFlyGuide v6.1 Doesn't says the statement quoted above. I says the following (I assume is this was one of the changes):
"
If the LED flashes Yellow once, GREAT, you don't need to
do anything special, however, if you get multiple flashes,
or no flash at all, the flash was unsuccessful and you
need to attempt flashing the firmware once again.
You can hold the boot button, plug your RP2040-Zero back
into your computer, flash the .uf2 to the board again and
look for a Yellow LED flash now."
I attached a small video link of what I did. If you guys be so kind to let me know if I done it correctly or If I need to bridge the RGB jumper. TIA
Been reading far back trying to catch up to the current times. I am gathering the parts to install this PicoFly so am just playing with flashing the PicoFly firmware.
Current PicoFlyGuide v6.1 Doesn't says the statement quoted above. I says the following (I assume is this was one of the changes):
"
If the LED flashes Yellow once, GREAT, you don't need to
do anything special, however, if you get multiple flashes,
or no flash at all, the flash was unsuccessful and you
need to attempt flashing the firmware once again.
You can hold the boot button, plug your RP2040-Zero back
into your computer, flash the .uf2 to the board again and
look for a Yellow LED flash now."
I attached a small video link of what I did. If you guys be so kind to let me know if I done it correctly or If I need to bridge the RGB jumper. TIA
The correct way to turn the rp2040 into usb mode is by pressing the boot button then power it on the usb. (CMIIW)
In the first development of the firmware, the diagnostic code are coded by color. Rp2040-zero have 2 kind of type of led in the market. One is RGB and the other is GRB something like that. So the color code is green according to the normal one, become red to the others. That is why there is bridge, so for GRB, the color code will be shifted so the color remains the same.
But..... It is now deprecated.
Color is ambigue, cyan and blue is similar, lot of people misunderstand the color. Also theres only 7 distinguished color, so its difficult to diagnostic lot of condition. Then the diagnostic code change from color to pulse (like morse code), in the new firmware.
BTW, in your video, its the normal rp2040-zero. The first color is blue. Its already correct. (CMIIW)
Reference:
* The code that throws blue in the first time picofly boot
https://github.com/rehius/usk/blob/7160263347b5f6e2abdcc2b84905336e4886b4d5/main.c#L105
Last edited by abal1000x,
One person here add chip on back shell from out side (it was small)
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for first time boot its opened automatically so no need to press anything just plug like normal usb flashdrive, if you want to reflash then need to press boot otherwise nothing opened
yes youre doing it correctly
Yes i do know that.
But why do the unnecessary assumption such as if its has no flash then just plugged it in.
I always press the boot button, its always works for both scenario.
Its easier to memorize, and less problematic.
Hi people!
I have to do the installation by myself because no technician want to help me with.
I don't have experience with soldering, so, begin well.
I'm having ==* that means CPU always reach BCT check.
Here the pics of my installation.
If i disconect the 3.3 point and ground, does nothing, just black screen.
I have to do the installation by myself because no technician want to help me with.
I don't have experience with soldering, so, begin well.
I'm having ==* that means CPU always reach BCT check.
Here the pics of my installation.
If i disconect the 3.3 point and ground, does nothing, just black screen.
Attachments
Does anyone can suggest best practice to back up files in hekate after picofly instals, what to back up? nand , keys or etc.
so far ive been neglecting backing up nand due to time, size out of convenience (im talking about if you jailbroken several switches instead of one)
any general thought on this??
so far ive been neglecting backing up nand due to time, size out of convenience (im talking about if you jailbroken several switches instead of one)
any general thought on this??
Last edited by blackheartme,
I've backed up all four of the switches that I have modded. I actually just boot fresh factory reset firmware, make my nand/boot0/boot1 backups, dump the keys, and then copy the entire SD card contents to a safe place. After that, I make my emunand, and continue setting up the console.
To be sold : dont bother. Using it your self : take your time.
If you insist then just backup the keys and boot let it be on the sdcard.. it takes a minute. No need to backup the whole nand.
Post automatically merged:
Anyone has experimented on the resistor values, even on cpu, ground,3.3v points. Whats the worst case that could happen.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
I check it and resolder, and the same result.
I have two mosfet too, but not confident enough to work with xD
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