I stopped using that 3.3v point on v1&v2 because it is very fragile. Just go for the 3.3v on nand. it´s a double pad to solder in.Mutch easier and solid work.Decided to use a thin wire for the 3.3v connection, because I had a mishap trying to do it with a thicker wire. The wire broke off when I was putting the heatsink back on and ended up cover the area with solder, which when I wicked it away had also removed the capacitors. I ended up soldering different size capacitors because that's what I have on hand. Just want someone to confirm the capacitors used on my V1 Switch and a thin wire for power is alright? I knocked off the 10nf cap and the one that goes to the 3.3v line. I was able to solder the larger 10nF I had by scrapping away some surface and solder it that way, but the 3.3v cap is listed as either 1uF or 2.2uF and I went with the 2.2uF. Is that fine for my Switch? I haven't plugged in the Switch yet because I'm waiting for a new microscope to come in so I can actually see what I did. The picture quality of my current scope is just trash.
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congratulations, wonderfull workI’m using hotplate just the normal PTC plate 450w. 150x90mm size and max temp of 200deg +/-15.
0201s takes a lot of time to assemble. In 3hrs+ i just manage to assemble only 15pcs. Next time ill just use the 0402 variant.
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