Hardware Anyone know the rate for repairs on Joycon?

Reaga

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Have some damage to my Splatoon 2 Joycon. Want to keep the original color scheme for them, but wondering if it'll be cheaper to get Nintendo to fix them or to buy the set from Walmart.

Can't get Nintendo to give me a straight answer on the cost. Left (green) has some minor damage to the locking mechanism allowing me to slide it out at any time without using the unlock, and has recently started holding forward on the stick if I press it for less than a second.

Pink functions fine but has some of the plastic missing near the R/ZR buttons. I can see the screw in the corner.
 

g00s3y

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Have some damage to my Splatoon 2 Joycon. Want to keep the original color scheme for them, but wondering if it'll be cheaper to get Nintendo to fix them or to buy the set from Walmart.

Can't get Nintendo to give me a straight answer on the cost. Left (green) has some minor damage to the locking mechanism allowing me to slide it out at any time without using the unlock, and has recently started holding forward on the stick if I press it for less than a second.

Pink functions fine but has some of the plastic missing near the R/ZR buttons. I can see the screw in the corner.

Show me some pics, I'm willing to fix it for you for price of parts & return shipping.

The metal locks are hit and miss. Some are drilled too deep, and some don't have the little "nub", like the plastic buckle. it's about a 50% success rate with those. I would be able to replace it with a spare Nintendo plastic buckle that isn't chipped or broken. Unless you want to purchase some metal ones and send them along with the joycons.

Control stick, try calibrating. If that doesn't fix it, it's drift and will need to be replaced. I have a few genuine Nintendo control sticks that are in mint condition I can replace it with for you.

Missing plastic, just needs a new plastic piece, wouldn't charge for that, I have HUNDREDS lying around.
 

The Real Jdbye

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Have some damage to my Splatoon 2 Joycon. Want to keep the original color scheme for them, but wondering if it'll be cheaper to get Nintendo to fix them or to buy the set from Walmart.

Can't get Nintendo to give me a straight answer on the cost. Left (green) has some minor damage to the locking mechanism allowing me to slide it out at any time without using the unlock, and has recently started holding forward on the stick if I press it for less than a second.

Pink functions fine but has some of the plastic missing near the R/ZR buttons. I can see the screw in the corner.
The stick issue could be either bad connectivity (fixable with the foam fix, putting a small piece of conductive foam over where the antenna is on the board), or if it drifts, it's a different issue but could still be fixable by doing the same thing as the guy did in this video:



You can replace the entire rail part cheaply and easily, but I don't know how easy to find (or cheap) the rails with colored buttons are.
 

Reaga

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Show me some pics, I'm willing to fix it for you for price of parts & return shipping.

The metal locks are hit and miss. Some are drilled too deep, and some don't have the little "nub", like the plastic buckle. it's about a 50% success rate with those. I would be able to replace it with a spare Nintendo plastic buckle that isn't chipped or broken. Unless you want to purchase some metal ones and send them along with the joycons.

Control stick, try calibrating. If that doesn't fix it, it's drift and will need to be replaced. I have a few genuine Nintendo control sticks that are in mint condition I can replace it with for you.

Missing plastic, just needs a new plastic piece, wouldn't charge for that, I have HUNDREDS lying around.
Let me try calibrating the sticks again and see if that fixes my issue (noticed it in BotW doing Trials of the Sword on Master Mode, imagine my dismay at being discovered because Link wouldn't stop walking). But will have an image attached of the physical damage.

On the green it can be hard to see, but there's a chip in that gray bit that I believe is preventing the normal locking mechanism from properly blocking a slide up.

Update: No longer seeing the issue with the stick. I think taking it out and connecting it again may have recalibrated it. Good old Link now stops when I stop pushing.
 

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Reaga

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Update: There was another problem in the pink I just kind of forgot because I got used to it, but the equivalent to "R3" is a little bit off. It doesn't really click, takes an extra try or 2.

Just while we're talking about getting in there.
 

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