Switch OLED issues with modchip, blue screen without

RubyRoid

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I'm having issues with my freshly modded Switch OLED.

It was working and booting fine as soon as I installed the modchip but it was late so I shut it down and put it on charger for the night. The next day I went to install a larger SD card and got an error message. I've tried the old card but that didn't help. I've tried several other known good cards with no success. I've opened an issue in the hekate github repo and got a response that it's either fake or corrupted SD card or the SD connector itself (Update: contacted CTCaer directly and we came to conclusion that the issue is with one of the RAM modules). I don't think it's either one of those since I've been using tested good cards and opened the Switch and carefully inspected the SD connector and found no issues, all the pins look fine, nothing is bent or damaged.

Since I couldn't make the modchip work I decided to disconnect it. I desoldered and isolated all the wires from the chip and tried to boot the console. Got a blue screen. Tried to boot it holding the VOL+ and VOL- buttons but still getting the blue screen.

I'm not sure if simply desoldering the wires from the chip is enough to properly unmod the Switch but I couldn't find any proper instructions online.

Is there a way to make my Switch work again?
 

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Last edited by RubyRoid,

RubyRoid

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Leave the blue screen on until your battery dies. Then plug it in and let it completely recharge. I doubt that helps with this issue, but I've seen enough people comment that it helped them to give it a shot, if I don't know what else to do. I still think you should try to reflow it if you have the tools. I don't recall anyone getting a bsod from dat0, so it's gotta be the cpu.

Unless... you got a corrupt boot0/boot1. Which chip, and which firmware?
The chip is hwfly OLED v4 with latest firmware version 0.7.1.

Thanks, I'll try to leave it on blue screen and see what happens.
 

Rodel

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i hope your emmc chip is not corrupted because the skhynix emmc use in some oled..try to check if your emmc is skhynix or samsung because skhynix got corrupted because of cheap price.did you reheat the emmc to install the dat0 adapter?
 

RubyRoid

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i hope your emmc chip is not corrupted because the skhynix emmc use in some oled..try to check if your emmc is skhynix or samsung because skhynix got corrupted because of cheap price.did you reheat the emmc to install the dat0 adapter?
I'm pretty sure it's Samsung. No, I did not apply any heat to the chip, only the DAT0 adapter.
emmc.jpg
 

RubyRoid

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I contacted CTCaer, it appears that the issue might be with one of the RAM chips. No idea how that might have happened, I never touched the RAM chips. I will see if I'll be able to debug it further.
 

urherenow

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I contacted CTCaer, it appears that the issue might be with one of the RAM chips. No idea how that might have happened, I never touched the RAM chips. I will see if I'll be able to debug it further.
wait... I see most every issue posted to hekate. If I'm not mistaken, the issue in question shows a minerva error. Not a bsod. Which is it? Do you get a BSOD as soon as you hit the power button, or are you able to see payload stuff? Like, nyx...
 
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zakwarrior

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Your issue is clearly from the EMMC, you need to understand blue screen (i repaired many) can come from a hit to the switch breaking and connecting pad from mobo <> APU, from a ball and many balls cracked (this is often), but also from a EMMC connecting issue,

Playing around with my first moddings on OLED it happened to me, i used a qsb because i was lazy to unball the emmc et reball it and was thinking that i connected it correctly (i didn't check the diode value to VSS or VDD)

Switch worked fine, bu only 1 time, it turned on, i played around with it, turned it off, took it back the next day and got blue screen... then i tried doind a reflow on the switch after taking chip down, the reflow was done correctly, still blue screen

I think that when i put the qsb it was not exactly on the dat0 point but in between dat0 ball and the next ball, making a short circuit, wierdly it turned on first time but never did after that.... you should be able to unbrick it, chaging the EMMC and making a new nand using donor nand BUT this is only if you took your prod.key, you should be able to put a new EMMC and load hekate in any case to get the prod.keys

For the next ones if you are able to reball that's the best, if you use a qsb, the orange oled qsb is the best (for me)
But the most important is when you install the qsb, check the diode value from qsb to ground and it must be in between 400 and 460 or little more (never got above 440~450) and also check diode value from qsb to 3.3v (should be in between 650 and 70)

I may be wrong but i got same problem once in my oled begenings so for me it's a burned emmc
RAM doesn't just burn like that and not from a modchip installation (except if you droped solder on the mobo someplace)
 
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RubyRoid

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wait... I see most every issue posted to hekate. If I'm not mistaken, the issue in question shows a minerva error. Not a bsod. Which is it? Do you get a BSOD as soon as you hit the power button, or are you able to see payload stuff? Like, nyx...
It was this issue. I get minerva error with modchip installed and BSOD with it desoldered from the motherboard.
 

RubyRoid

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Your issue is clearly from the EMMC, you need to understand blue screen (i repaired many) can come from a hit to the switch breaking and connecting pad from mobo <> APU, from a ball and many balls cracked (this is often), but also from a EMMC connecting issue,

Playing around with my first moddings on OLED it happened to me, i used a qsb because i was lazy to unball the emmc et reball it and was thinking that i connected it correctly (i didn't check the diode value to VSS or VDD)

Switch worked fine, bu only 1 time, it turned on, i played around with it, turned it off, took it back the next day and got blue screen... then i tried doind a reflow on the switch after taking chip down, the reflow was done correctly, still blue screen

I think that when i put the qsb it was not exactly on the dat0 point but in between dat0 ball and the next ball, making a short circuit, wierdly it turned on first time but never did after that.... you should be able to unbrick it, chaging the EMMC and making a new nand using donor nand BUT this is only if you took your prod.key, you should be able to put a new EMMC and load hekate in any case to get the prod.keys

For the next ones if you are able to reball that's the best, if you use a qsb, the orange oled qsb is the best (for me)
But the most important is when you install the qsb, check the diode value from qsb to ground and it must be in between 400 and 460 or little more (never got above 440~450) and also check diode value from qsb to 3.3v (should be in between 650 and 70)

I may be wrong but i got same problem once in my oled begenings so for me it's a burned emmc
RAM doesn't just burn like that and not from a modchip installation (except if you droped solder on the mobo someplace)
Hi, thanks for sharing your experience. I agree, it is pretty similar to the issue I'm having with my Switch.

I have a few questions:

1. Do I have to desolder the wires from qsb and 3.3V point before probing?
2. In case my EMMC failed, am I screwed if I did not backup any keys?
 

RubyRoid

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Thank you. Okay just making sure cause some people call the purple screen blue screen. None of the main points were shorted to ground? Have you checked this? If so sorry I just jumped in.
No problem, I appreciate it!

I have only checked the capacitors under the RAM chips and they look fine. What other points should I test?
 
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urherenow

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No problem, I appreciate it!

I have only checked the capacitors under the RAM chips and they look fine. What other points should I test?
All of them. But don't simply rely on diode voltage. You really want to check resistance to ground. And since you took off all the wires, look at the clk pad very carefully, and make sure you don't see a hole in the middle of the pad. Did you at any time use solder wick? If by chance you have a squeeze bottle with a needle applicator cap, shoot some IPA under the cpu from the opposite side of the clk point (pouring it won't have the desired effect... need that squeeze bottle with the small needle applicator). watch very carefully for a bit of solder or wick. If a solder ball comes out, then there's your issue, and would explain why squeezing the cpu into the board did not get rid of your blue screen.
 
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