Hardware AGS-101 screen on AGS-001 motherboard

arzi84

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I have this converter guys but i'm confused,
View attachment 106086

GND ok, but V+ is Vin or Vout ? Also b+ or B- is Vin or vout ?
Thanks

Can you take a photo from other side?

So I tried to do this mod but my soldering skills are lacking so I soldered of the C54 section on the board I was wondering if it is okay to bypass it with solder or so I have to get a replacement and where would I get that?
I have solder over it now just to be clear
View attachment 106087

Never replace capacitor with short circuit, it will damage your motherboard.

And also this happend

Your soldering iron is probably too hot.
 

JeffTheNerd

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Never replace the capacitor with short circuit, it will damage your motherboard.



Your soldering iron is probably too hot.[/QUOTE]

1 the c54 section is capacitor were can I find a replacement
2 does it still work(the screen)? How do I fix it?
 
Last edited by JeffTheNerd,

Dark_Knight_DA

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I finally received my step-up converter and was able to make the mod! I also perrformed the brightness switch mod, which worked perfectly! Note that the underside of the converter is perfectly insulated

The step up converter

Screenshot_1.jpg

The wiring for the brightness mod. The right wire starts from pin 33 and goes to a 470 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor is soldered to a GROUND

Screenshot_2.jpg
 
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Mauri

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Hola amigos. Este convertido funcionaria para una gba de 40 pines con flex y pantalla de sp de 40 pines ?
 

Dark_Knight_DA

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I can't seem to get the solder to stick to the GND point (near the CPU under the number 79) and advice?

Cheers
make sure your soldering tip is perfectly clean and tinned, then apply heat to the ground area while slowly feeding solder. As a last resort, you can also slightly scratch the ground point to make solder flow easier
 

Liquid_Vegeta

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Awesome, I'll give that a go then. Muddled through the rest of it but got stuck at the grounding part.

Worried I've got a bit too much solder on some other parts, it's very tricky with everything so small.
 

Mucha6630

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20171230_094431.jpg 20171230_094443.jpg
Helo broken screen model AGS-001 You can buy cheap better screen AGS-101 from china ? please help

need ?

1 . For Nintendo GameBoy Advance SP GBA SP AGS 101 Highlit Screen LCD OEM Backlit Brighter
1234.jpg
2. DC 3.3V 3.7V 5V 6V to 12V Step up Boost Power Supply Module For Arduino UNO Breadboard Development Voltage Regulator Converter
4321.jpg
something else ?
 
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iLackIQ

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I finally received my step-up converter and was able to make the mod! I also perrformed the brightness switch mod, which worked perfectly! Note that the underside of the converter is perfectly insulated

The step up converter

View attachment 107195

The wiring for the brightness mod. The right wire starts from pin 33 and goes to a 470 ohm resistor. The other end of the resistor is soldered to a GROUND

View attachment 107196

What is the red stuff on your wiring for your brightness mod? Also are you able to provide a better image of the second picture, the brightness mod. I'm interested in doing it but I can't tell what pin you have the wire going to you say 33 but then what pin did you connect the wire to for the step up converter? Thanks
 
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Bazahazano

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I'm just about to preform upgrading my Sp AGS-001 to backlght. But 'm still a little bit unsure of the brightness button mod I can't quite make out from the pictures on here what exactly is going on. I know that one end of the wire is connected to pin 33 of the screen ribbon connector but I not sure where the other end goes or if you need to add a resister or are just using one already on the pcb.
Information for this mod seams to be hard to get clearly from anywhere else I can't find tutorials anywhere even on YouTube.

Thanks to all for the great posts in this thread they have been really helpful and much appreciated.

I will post some images when it's done.
 
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NielsBrouwers

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Hi Everyone,

I appearantly had the older model where the trace goes under the connector. I unsoldered the connector to see where it was going and where I should cut the trace (first picture, unsoldered connector). I found out that pin 34 is connected to pin 31. Instead of cutting the trace, I just put some kapton tape over the pad for pin 34 and soldered the connector back on.

I expected it to work, but the light did not turn on. After some searching I found out pin 33 had to be pulled down, I did that by connecting/shorting pin 33 with pin 32 (32 is GND) and that turned on the light.

I am not sure what is pulled down by pin 33, and have not yet checked if power consumption is really high, in which case a resistor might be necessary but so far the unit works fine. Has anyone any info on this?

The last picture has some drops of glue to keep everything in place.

Grtz,
Niels


IMG_6139.JPG


IMG_6163.JPG
 
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Bazahazano

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Hi Everyone,

I appearantly had the older model where the trace goes under the connector. I unsoldered the connector to see where it was going and where I should cut the trace (first picture, unsoldered connector). I found out that pin 34 is connected to pin 31. Instead of cutting the trace, I just put some kapton tape over the pad for pin 34 and soldered the connector back on.

I expected it to work, but the light did not turn on. After some searching I found out pin 33 had to be pulled down, I did that by connecting/shorting pin 33 with pin 32 (32 is GND) and that turned on the light.

I am not sure what is pulled down by pin 33, and have not yet checked if power consumption is really high, in which case a resistor might be necessary but so far the unit works fine. Has anyone any info on this?

The last picture has some drops of glue to keep everything in place.

Grtz,
Niels


View attachment 111931

View attachment 111932

You can attach wires directly to the pads on the back of the screen. You have to lift up the first layer that comes from the ribbon. That way you don't need to worry about messing with that connecter.
 

NielsBrouwers

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You can attach wires directly to the pads on the back of the screen. You have to lift up the first layer that comes from the ribbon. That way you don't need to worry about messing with that connecter.

Thanks for the reply.
Yes, connecting the 12v straight to the backlight pins would have worked. I decided not to because that would have meant routing additional wires next to the flat-cable.

Grtz,
Niels
 

arzi84

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I expected it to work, but the light did not turn on. After some searching I found out pin 33 had to be pulled down, I did that by connecting/shorting pin 33 with pin 32 (32 is GND) and that turned on the light.

I am not sure what is pulled down by pin 33, and have not yet checked if power consumption is really high, in which case a resistor might be necessary but so far the unit works fine. Has anyone any info on this?

Pin 33 is GND for backlight, GBA SP controls backlight from GND side and that is why brightness mod is soldered to that pin.
 

Bazahazano

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Pin 33 is GND for backlight, GBA SP controls backlight from GND side and that is why brightness mod is soldered to that pin.
I have been having trouble with the screen flickering between low and high brightness. Turns out I have a faulty brightness button. So I have attached pin 33 straight to ground so the screen is always full brightness no matter what the switch is doing. I any idea where to source a replacement switch?
 

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