Review cover Elgato Key Light Mini (Hardware)
Official GBAtemp Review

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Elgato’s latest lighting solution is also their smallest; so how bright does the Key Light Mini shine (literally and figuratively)?

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If the COVID-19 pandemic has clarified anything, it’s that video streaming isn’t going away any time soon; whether it’s for work or play. Zoom, Twitch and Teams are being expected options to hold meetings, events, online gaming parties and simple chats even as pandemic restrictions start to ease. This is mostly because of the convenience and relatively lower costs of holding events online as well as slashing the distance barrier. 

So we will likely continue to be interacting online regularly and when it comes to showing up on video, you might want to look good. This will depend on a number of factors from the camera you use to external lighting. The latter can significantly improve the quality of an image/video for the receiving end and might be worth investing in if you’re looking to step up the quality of your video streams.

Elgato has made a name for itself in the game streaming sphere and has expanded its repertoire to include further accessories. One of the latest is the Key Light Mini, a compact, portable external light source. 

Priced at £90 / $100, you will find the following items out of the box:

  • Key Light Mini
  • USB-C to USB-A Cable
  • Quick Start Guide

As for the specs details, you can find them below:

  • Brightness: 800 lumens, adjustable 
  • Colour range: 2900 - 7000 K, adjustable CRI > 94 %
  • Battery: 3.7 V, 4000 mAh LiPo
  • Charging: USB-C, fast charge up to 3 A, 5 V 
  • Power consumption: Maximum 15 W
  • Dimensions: 147 x 100 x 17 mm / 5.79 x 3.93 x 0.67 in 
  • Weight: 300 g / 0.66 lbs
  • Wi-Fi: 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz, 802.11 a/b/g/n
  • Supported encryption: WPA2 + AES, WPA + TKIP/AES
  • Mount compatibility: Elgato Multi Mount , Any mount with a 1/4-inch screw or adapter

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As its name suggests, the Key Light Mini is mini, pocketable even. It somewhat bears a resemblance to a (chunky) e-reader with a quality, sturdy build with a matte black. I particularly appreciated the design at the back of the device, bearing an embossed pattern surrounding the Elgato logo.

On the underside of the Key Light Mini is a standard ¼ inch thread that enables you to securely mount the light source to a camera, tripod or any standard mount. It’s a bummer that one isn’t included in the package, especially considering the rather premium asking price.

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Turning our attention to the right side of the device, we can see a USB-C port for charging/powering the Key Light Mini, a power button, a control wheel and a recessed reset button. And that’s about it for the physical controls; and, honestly, this minimalist approach works great for the device. Most controls can be handled on the device itself with ease and minimal confusion. I say minimal because it takes a few tries to get the ropes of adjusting the colour temperatures with the control wheel (how to switch between warm and cool white)

Controls are easier and more straightforward via the dedicated Control Centre software. With the latter, you can update the firmware of the Key Light Mini as well as adjust the brightness and temperature of the Key Light Mini. You can also use the physical controls and you’ll see the adjustments being mirrored in the app.

Connecting to the Control Centre app is done over WiFi but the Key Light Mini can also pair over a wired connection and you can bypass the battery with the app’s Studio Mode to power the device only via USB and save the built-in battery’s life. It’s really great to have such options that allow for more use cases and prevent a wire-fest like the CameraReady LiteBars do. 

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In fact, the Key Light Mini seems to have been designed to allow for more freedom of use cases. Its compact form factor enables the user to take it practically anywhere. Its 4000 mAh internal battery supports this practicality as it will provide enough juice to hold up to 4 hours (of course, subject to brightness level). Mount it on a camera for your vlog or a tripod for your video calls or just hold it with your hand to take well-lit pictures of a new device that you’d like to share on Instagram. These are all easily done with the Key Light Mini and it works great at that. 

In my case, I found it not only a handy solution to improve the lighting whenever I'm on video calls but also very useful to illuminate pictures of devices for my reviews, especially at night or in poor lighting conditions. The Key Light Mini really helps heaps when doing close-up shots and provides a uniform, portable lighting source in these situations.

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Xbox Series S/X controller with my room's light (night, no external lighting), cool white and warm light conditions
 
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Wolverine figure with my room's light (night, no external lighting), cool white and warm light conditions

Even if it is small, it delivers bright lighting with its 800-lumen output. The maximum intensity is so bright that I haven’t found a use for it yet. Such extremes can be distracting and slightly blinding but toning it down easily fixes the issue. The intensity can in fact be adjusted across a spectrum which is another neat feature over having fixed intensities as you can find a sweet spot for proper illumination and not being distracting.

Moreover, you can easily switch between warm and cool white across the 2900 - 7000 K colour range to suit your preferences. The pictures below will help provide an idea about how the lighting’s effect.

As such, the Key Light Mini is really a device that allows for a range of customisation and versatility to suit the user’s needs. 

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Wolverine figure in daylight without external lighting, with cool white and warm white

 

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Azeron keypad in daylight without external lighting, with cool white and warm white

While it’s a great accessory, the size and shape of the Key Light Mini, even if it delivers bright lighting, means that it might not deliver uniform lighting as a ring light would. It will shine from an angle and you’ll want to adjust that accordingly to avoid shadows and missed features in your stream/pictures. Alternatively, you might want to look for a second pair of Key Light Mini to address for more uniform lighting but that would mean paying double and the device is not very cheap to begin with.

What I’d mostly recommend it for is if you’re looking for a lighting solution for your stream/pictures that won’t clutter your setup. It will deliver on that while packing handy adjustments and customisation options; and at that, it will shine bright literally and figuratively.

Verdict

What We Liked ...
  • Compact, versatile and bright
  • Works both wired and wirelessly
  • Customisation options with physical hardware and dedicated software
What We Didn't Like ...
  • No mount/tripod included in package
  • Size and shape means it won’t illuminate uniformly
8.5
out of 10

Overall

Elgato’s Key Light Mini is the external lighting solution to consider if you want to take your streaming seriously with product that boasts a minimal footprint, quality, versatility and customisation options.
I don't like Elgato anymore, been trying to get a new capture card and they all gave me problems. Kinda gave up on the new stuff and went back to my old Elgato device again and even that is starting to act up. lol
 
I don't like Elgato anymore, been trying to get a new capture card and they all gave me problems. Kinda gave up on the new stuff and went back to my old Elgato device again and even that is starting to act up. lol
Oh man yeah the old elgato definitely has issues especially when it can screw up the video processing after your done recording, I can't trust cards like that. I used to main the Elgato HD S mainly for low latency to play on my recording screen. The card itself didn't have problems it was the recording software that would cause unsynced audio or stutter gameplay which can only be fixed by a update patch.
 
Oh man yeah the old elgato definitely has issues especially when it can screw up the video processing after your done recording, I can't trust cards like that. I used to main the Elgato HD S mainly for low latency to play on my recording screen. The card itself didn't have problems it was the recording software that would cause unsynced audio or stutter gameplay which can only be fixed by a update patch.

Anyway I wanted a 4K card for my ps5/series x and went with the Avermedia Live Gamer 4K. Its Abit pricey new, but damn its really good heres a vid if your interested on how it looks. If you don't care about 4K I highly recommend the Avermdia LGP really cheap if you get the 1st model I still have it for my other PC used it for 4 years records gameplay in smaller file size supports SD cards aswell.

That's the thing, though, the original HD60 of mine never gave me trouble aside from being lower quality. I recently got the HD60 Pro and there were constantly audio/video "hiccups" that were highly annoying. Apparently there was no way to fix them without doing shady stuff to your computer. (involving BIOS stuff, something I'm not comfortable with) I gave up with that and returned it, going for the HD60 S which was basically a simple upgrade from what I have now. It gave me audio problems, like, my speakers wouldn't detect it, and when it did it only lasted for a few seconds. Even when I did find a work-around that, the recordings froze up every few seconds....at that point I was too stress to even bother trying to find help on that and returned it. I'll just stick with the original HD60. T.T

Then again, after setting up my old one again, I noticed my last video with it froze for a second but only towards the end of the video. I guess I could try a different brand...though I have a Switch so I probably will never bother with 4K videos. xD
 
That's the thing, though, the original HD60 of mine never gave me trouble aside from being lower quality. I recently got the HD60 Pro and there were constantly audio/video "hiccups" that were highly annoying. Apparently there was no way to fix them without doing shady stuff to your computer. (involving BIOS stuff, something I'm not comfortable with) I gave up with that and returned it, going for the HD60 S which was basically a simple upgrade from what I have now. It gave me audio problems, like, my speakers wouldn't detect it, and when it did it only lasted for a few seconds. Even when I did find a work-around that, the recordings froze up every few seconds....at that point I was too stress to even bother trying to find help on that and returned it. I'll just stick with the original HD60. T.T

Then again, after setting up my old one again, I noticed my last video with it froze for a second but only towards the end of the video. I guess I could try a different brand...though I have a Switch so I probably will never bother with 4K videos. xD
Oh ok I thought you meant you were using the OG elgato lol that one was terrible, but it was the hottest thing on the market at the time. Going through the BIOS for a capture card to me is a red flag, since they are suppose to be plug-play devices aslong the drivers are installed. One thing about Elgato is that they have many streaming hardware, but their software can be finicky, numerous of users had the same audio problems. But yeah just keep using what works, better than dealing with headaches on software issues.
 
Oh ok I thought you meant you were using the OG elgato lol that one was terrible, but it was the hottest thing on the market at the time. Going through the BIOS for a capture card to me is a red flag, since they are suppose to be plug-play devices aslong the drivers are installed. One thing about Elgato is that they have many streaming hardware, but their software can be finicky, numerous of users had the same audio problems. But yeah just keep using what works, better than dealing with headaches on software issues.
I dunno, I figured the HD60 was the original. xD

As for the HD60 Pro, despite it still giving me issues, it was actually working better on their software compared to something like OBS. (where the "hiccups" were far more constant and noticeable)

But yeah, apparently the card was designed and programmed a certain way that I can't explain because I'm not a technical person. But basically the computer would treat it as a background app or something so it doesn't put much power/resources into the recording/streaming...or even the damn preview. lol

The only ways someone has managed to get it to work right is to disable some settings in the BIOS, or force the computer into high performance mode with a stress test or something.
 
Heh, you can make an amazing portable light with a power bank and a couple of led strips.
Less than 20$ will give you what you need.
 
Could just get a ring light for a third of the price, they don't really take that much more room.
 
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