Hardware Attempting to fix Switch Joycons. Stuck and can't find any solution anywhere.

[Spirifican]

Hi.

I'm attempting to swap out the sticks on my partners Joycons due to drift. I have no problem doing that, but I have ran into another problem while attempting this.

I can't describe it very well, so I will try my best.

When taking the Joycon apart to get to the sticks, obviously you have to unplug a few ribbon cables, well, as I flicked the tiny latch up that holds the cable down in place and took the ZR ribbon cable (the one that wraps around the plastic shell and is a nightmare to get back in place), the latch popped straight off. Luckily I located it and tried to put the latch back on but to no avail, it won't work at all. I have now lost the latch after it pinged out while trying to attach it. This means that I can no longer put pressure on the ribbon cable, so it cannot be seated. All of this means that the ZR button is no longer working.

Now, I did manage to find a thread or two about how some people have used sticky tack, some used tape and they managed to make a good enough connection for the ZR button to work again, but it's held on by hopes and dreams.

In my infinite wisdom, I said to myself, "Oh, no problem, I'll order a spare connector, one that has the latch and then I'll re-solder it".

Well, that connector has been delivered, and I've just now found out that I have no idea where to even begin de-soldering this tiny little thing. I figured it would've been soldered from the underside, but no it's not.

What can I realistically do from here?

 

[binkinator]

Hi.

I'm attempting to swap out the sticks on my partners Joycons due to drift. I have no problem doing that, but I have ran into another problem while attempting this.

I can't describe it very well, so I will try my best.

When taking the Joycon apart to get to the sticks, obviously you have to unplug a few ribbon cables, well, as I flicked the tiny latch up that holds the cable down in place and took the ZR ribbon cable (the one that wraps around the plastic shell and is a nightmare to get back in place), the latch popped straight off. Luckily I located it and tried to put the latch back on but to no avail, it won't work at all. I have now lost the latch after it pinged out while trying to attach it. This means that I can no longer put pressure on the ribbon cable, so it cannot be seated. All of this means that the ZR button is no longer working.

Now, I did manage to find a thread or two about how some people have used sticky tack, some used tape and they managed to make a good enough connection for the ZR button to work again, but it's held on by hopes and dreams.

In my infinite wisdom, I said to myself, "Oh, no problem, I'll order a spare connector, one that has the latch and then I'll re-solder it".

Well, that connector has been delivered, and I've just now found out that I have no idea where to even begin de-soldering this tiny little thing. I figured it would've been soldered from the underside, but no it's not.

What can I realistically do from here?

These little guys are surface mounted and require microsoldering. Microsoldering requires a microscope and a hot air rework station. At a high level you mask off the area w/ Kapton tape, apply a liberal amount of flux and heat the component until it “floats” and you can pluck it off w/ tweezers. Putting the new one on requires cleaning the target area with solder wick, tinning the pads w/ solder and then adding more flux, reheating the area and the component will float back on and center itself on the pads using surface tension. Clean it with IPA and you’re done.

Sounds simple, huh?

That connector is really hard to get back on w/o melting it or pressing too hard and breaking it or floating off other components you aren’t working on. I ended up buying a “for parts” board on eBay.

If you still want to get the gear and try your hand, Google microsoldering FPC connector and you should get some videos to walk you through the details.

E: here’s a good video of the process…

 

[Blauhasenpopo]

Maybe........just maybe......consider to buy new ones

 

[binkinator]

Maybe........just maybe......consider to buy new ones

Unless you’re looking to get into a new hobby, ^^ this ^^ is absolutely the way to go.

It will easily cost you 2X the cost of a new joycon to get the tools and supplies necessary to replace this little guy properly.

It is a fun hobby though…

 

[Blauhasenpopo]

Unless you’re looking to get into a new hobby, ^^ this ^^ is absolutely the way to go.

It will easily cost you 2X the cost of a new joycon to get the tools and supplies necessary to replace this little guy properly.

It is a fun hobby though…

And a lot of fewer hassle......and if not new, maybe used in very good shape....or something like that, but in my opinion it's not worth it.

 

[Spirifican]

These little guys are surface mounted and require microsoldering. Microsoldering requires a microscope and a hot air rework station. At a high level you mask off the area w/ Kapton tape, apply a liberal amount of flux and heat the component until it “floats” and you can pluck it off w/ tweezers. Putting the new one on requires cleaning the target area with solder wick, tinning the pads w/ solder and then adding more flux, reheating the area and the component will float back on and center itself on the pads using surface tension. Clean it with IPA and you’re done.

Sounds simple, huh?

That connector is really hard to get back on w/o melting it or pressing too hard and breaking it or floating off other components you aren’t working on. I ended up buying a “for parts” board on eBay.

If you still want to get the gear and try your hand, Google microsoldering FPC connector and you should get some videos to walk you through the details.

E: here’s a good video of the process…

Unless you’re looking to get into a new hobby, ^^ this ^^ is absolutely the way to go.

It will easily cost you 2X the cost of a new joycon to get the tools and supplies necessary to replace this little guy properly.

It is a fun hobby though…

Thanks for this, this is exactly what I needed.

I'm nowhere near talented enough at soldering to even attempt this and I'm not about to go and buy a microscope and full extractor setup for just this

Maybe it's a hobby I could get into in a few years time! As for now, looks like I owe my partner at least one new Joycon.

 

[Blauhasenpopo]

That's the best bet, for now

 

[The_Chaotician]

Would also recommend searching for either Faulty Joy Cons or just the Joy Con motherboard on eBay or similar. Having broken many internal components before, and without the skills mentioned above, it could save you some cash.

 

[zxr750j]

Or sell the joycon as faulty on ebay (or similar) to recoup some cash..
Edit: You can use the plastic retaining thingie from the one you bought to replace the one that flew away!

 

[Lamcza]

Oh boy, yes that zr, that short quacking bastard of ribbon i hate it, in my case the zr switch just fall apart when i was changing shells and joystick so i already spend a good amount of time connecting this quackery. Sometimes it is easier to take out the button unscrew the ribbon then connect it and carefully screw it back and put the back button but springs -.-.

Soldering that tiny socket requires some skill and equipment, so its better to give it to someone who knows what to do with it becouse you can easly quack it up.

I think if connector works it is still worth of some diy rescue mission. If you cant replace just that pressure hinge you can use hot glue(idk if ribbon could stand a lot of heat so just a tiny drop ) to secure the ribbon in place and some foam tape(or something like that) to glue it on the connector for making enough of pressure on it to not lose contact. But to make it easier unplug everything take out the ribbon and board put it on the desk wear some rubber gloves or an antistatic band or something like that and look out for springs i hate springs.

Ps. Remember that ribbons do not always need to go all the way in the socket and never use too much force on this tiny piece. If it is going too hard you are doing it wrong probably and ofc unplug the battery first.