Chrome is locking up my system at random, time for Win 10?

[Spectral Blizzard]

No other apps have this issue, so is that a "yes, delete all the malware?"

@VinsCool On it, quarantining them now.

Also, why the fuck are you not using Norton?
I mean, if you can't afford it then...
Still, why?

 

[VinsCool]

@Spectral Blizzard will you please abstain yourself from posting if you don't intend to provide anything helpful instead of your cheesy jokes?
That will be really appreciated.

@the_randomizer keep me updated whenever you get all your crap deleted, hopefully that gets rid of the problem once and for all.

 

[the_randomizer]

@Spectral Blizzard will you please abstain yourself from posting if you don't intend to provide anything helpful instead of your cheesy jokes?
That will be really appreciated.

@the_randomizer keep me updated whenever you get all your crap deleted, hopefully that gets rid of the problem once and for all.

Firefox crashed too This is really starting to piss me off. I suspect that there's something underlying causing this. But this was before I reset it after deletion. This isn't looking good.

Malware is gone/quarantined, but damn, this is not looking good. I may have to install Windows 10, luckily I have a new HDD to put it on. Resintalling my games, apps, etc, is gonna be a bitch though.

 

[Captain_N]

Normally when the computer locks up like that its a hardware issue. A failing drive can do that also. Try using the portable version of chrome. You can even run it off a flash drive. I does not install like a normal application.
https://portableapps.com/apps/internet/google_chrome_portable
I use portable chrome all the time.
I would also suggest looking at the Windows Logs in event viewer. If you see anything like controller error on sata port 0 or drive0 has a bad block then that's the drive failing. You should also download a program to read the hard drives SMART Data. If you let me see it i can use it to determine if the drive is failing. Failing Ram usually gives random blue screens.

Normally when the computer locks up like that its hardware. Also for testing methods you can download a copy of gandalfs windows 10 live iso. Its a BartPE windows 10 that boots and runs in RAM off the Disc. It even works with no hard drive installed. If the pc locks up with the live disc then its hardware related and not os related.
PM me if you want a link to a gandalf's windows 10 live disc that is x86 and x64. I dont think i can post a link here.

 

[the_randomizer]

Normally when the computer locks up like that its a hardware issue. A failing drive can do that also. Try using the portable version of chrome. You can even run it off a flash drive. I does not install like a normal application.
https://portableapps.com/apps/internet/google_chrome_portable
I use portable chrome all the time.
I would also suggest looking at the Windows Logs in event viewer. If you see anything like controller error on sata port 0 or drive0 has a bad block then that's the drive failing. You should also download a program to read the hard drives SMART Data. If you let me see it i can use it to determine if the drive is failing. Failing Ram usually gives random blue screens.

Normally when the computer locks up like that its hardware. Also for testing methods you can download a copy of gandalfs windows 10 live iso. Its a BartPE windows 10 that boots and runs in RAM off the Disc. It even works with no hard drive installed. If the pc locks up with the live disc then its hardware related and not os related.
PM me if you want a link to a gandalf's windows 10 live disc that is x86 and x64. I dont think i can post a link here.

Damn, that's...what I feared. I don't hear any weird noises from the hard drives, no garbled data or anything like that. It only started recently as Sunday, and once again tonight (well, twice). Ugh, I don't know what to do, but yeah, how do I load that ISO image exactly? I'd upgrade to 10, but I'm past the free upgrade period, and I've no way of activating it without spending money. IDK, maybe the malware had something to do with it, ran out of RAM, I don't know.

Edit: Looking in event log, I see nothing with SATA in it. SMART, huh? I can try that.


Edit 2: Ran this, https://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html

C drive is under "caution" status

 

[Captain_N]

Damn, that's...what I feared. I don't hear any weird noises from the hard drives, no garbled data or anything like that. It only started recently as Sunday, and once again tonight (well, twice). Ugh, I don't know what to do, but yeah, how do I load that ISO image exactly? I'd upgrade to 10, but I'm past the free upgrade period, and I've no way of activating it without spending money. IDK, maybe the malware had something to do with it, ran out of RAM, I don't know.

You can burn the iso on a dvd then boot the computer with it. You can also use a program like rufus to install the iso to a usb flash drive and boot that way. I prefer burning the disc. I know it works great as i just used the gandalf windows 10 live x86 version. It is also loaded with software like partition manager and drive cloning software.
Failing drives sometimes you can hear unless you place your ear right on the drive. I suppose you also have to know what a failing drive sounds like when it errors out lol. The SMART data will tell alot. If you see constantly changing large raw read errors, high seek errors, relocated sectors, pending sectors, its time to back up and replace the drive. If its a solid state drive then they to weird lockups also when they begin to fail.

You got a screen shot of that SMART data?

 

[the_randomizer]

You can burn the iso on a dvd then boot the computer with it. You can also use a program like rufus to install the iso to a usb flash drive and boot that way. I prefer burning the disc. I know it works great as i just used the gandalf windows 10 live x86 version. It is also loaded with software like partition manager and drive cloning software.
Failing drives sometimes you can hear unless you place your ear right on the drive. I suppose you also have to know what a failing drive sounds like when it errors out lol. The SMART data will tell alot. If you see constantly changing large raw read errors, high seek errors, relocated sectors, pending sectors, its time to back up and replace the drive. If its a solid state drive then they to weird lockups also when they begin to fail.

I have three HDDs on here, all 1 TB WD drives. The CrystalDiskInfo indicates the disk as "caution" and the errors it gives are "Current Pending Sector Count" 200|200 and the other yellow icon is "uncorrectable sector count" 200|200. Yeah, so, uh, ugh. Damn.


Edit: I'm conflicted, use Western Digital's SMART tool, and it passes, and is apparently in good health?

Edit: Windows WMIC also says all drives are okay *whew*

 

[Captain_N]

I have three HDDs on here, all 1 TB WD drives. The CrystalDiskInfo indicates the disk as "caution" and the errors it gives are "Current Pending Sector Count" 200|200 and the other yellow icon is "uncorrectable sector count" 200|200. Yeah, so, uh, ugh. Damn.


Edit: I'm conflicted, use Western Digital's SMART tool, and it passes, and is apparently in good health?

Here is an example of a drive that is in the pre-fail state. Its in my server ad the system drive. Im going to replace it soon

Those large number increase when the drive is perferming read operations. They constantly grow.
The ecc in the drive is correcting the errors so we never see the drive failing. This drive proably has a mechanical issue that will cause a failure. see the seek errors they should not be growing but they are. Spin retrys typically indicate a failing platter motor or its getting weak.
What was the warning under when you ran it.? I'm going to head off to sleep now. Ill be on Thursday night

 

[the_randomizer]

Here is an example of a drive that is in the pre-fail state. Its in my server ad the system drive. Im going to replace it soon

Those large number increase when the drive is perferming read operations. They constantly grow.
The ecc in the drive is correcting the errors so we never see the drive failing. This drive proably has a mechanical issue that will cause a failure. see the seek errors they should not be growing but they are. Spin retrys typically indicate a failing platter motor or its getting weak.
What was the warning under when you ran it.? I'm going to head off to sleep now. Ill be on Thursday night

The first program I used gave "Caution" but the other two did not.

I ran the SMART test with WMIC and Western Digital's own SMART programs, and both stated as all drives being OK, no warnings of any kind. I think that's pretty definitive, but I have kept major backups on other drives. Okay, see ya then.

 

[LineoftheDead]

Damn, that's...what I feared. I don't hear any weird noises from the hard drives, no garbled data or anything like that. It only started recently as Sunday, and once again tonight (well, twice). Ugh, I don't know what to do, but yeah, how do I load that ISO image exactly? I'd upgrade to 10, but I'm past the free upgrade period, and I've no way of activating it without spending money. IDK, maybe the malware had something to do with it, ran out of RAM, I don't know.

Edit: Looking in event log, I see nothing with SATA in it. SMART, huh? I can try that.


Edit 2: Ran this, https://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html

C drive is under "caution" status

I legit had that link at the ready for you. I used to swear by http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php, but it doesnt read SSDs too well.
My friends only go off of Crystal Disk, anything other than green = ddrescue & trash.

Anytime I notice something out of the norm (like what you've described), I run full backups, wipe & reinstall. Nabbing an ISO with the latest build is stupid easy, as well as activating it. I can help, even to pull your current product code too..... want to extract your chrome data? I've got a sleuth box of forensics tools. HMU if you need help

Also, a way better antivirus - https://www.eset.com/us/home/antivirus/
I've never used it, or any antivirus for that matter... my friends use it

 

[the_randomizer]

I legit had that link at the ready for you. I used to swear by http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php, but it doesnt read SSDs too well.
My friends only go off of Crystal Disk, anything other than green = ddrescue & trash.

Anytime I notice something out of the norm (like what you've described), I run full backups, wipe & reinstall. Nabbing an ISO with the latest build is stupid easy, as well as activating it. I can help, even to pull your current product code too..... want to extract your chrome data? I've got a sleuth box of forensics tools. HMU if you need help

Also, a way better antivirus - https://www.eset.com/us/home/antivirus/
I've never used it, or any antivirus for that matter... my friends use it

Windows 10 can supposedly use a Windows 7 key, not sure if that works if you install Win 10 on another partition, but I ran Western Digital's official tools and all my HDDs pass. That said, I ran Microsoft WCIN or whatever it's called, and same results, all status is OK. Windows 10, still on the fence, because activating it will be a nightmare.

 

[LineoftheDead]

Windows 10 can supposedly use a Windows 7 key, not sure if that works if you install Win 10 on another partition, but I ran Western Digital's official tools and all my HDDs pass.

Not sure about that. you can (but why?). I saw that - do you have WD drives?

My recommendation (if your happy with 7 and you think drive is fine), pull browser data, back it up, pull product code, back it up, pull passwords, back em up, move user folder to said backup location NOTE: ALL BACKUPS ARE EXTERNAL FROM OS DRIVE

Then download latest build for 7, boot to image (if you have UEFI based system, from secure boot), format drive, install to drive, fully update OS, move backed up files back to drive.

 

[the_randomizer]

Not sure about that. you can (but why?). I saw that - do you have WD drives?

My recommendation (if your happy with 7 and you think drive is fine), pull browser data, back it up, pull product code, back it up, pull passwords, back em up, move user folder to said backup location NOTE: ALL BACKUPS ARE EXTERNAL FROM OS DRIVE

Then download latest build for 7, boot to image (if you have UEFI based system, from secure boot), format drive, install to drive, fully update OS, move backed up files back to drive.

So are you saying I should reinstall Windows 7 instead and not Windows 10? I don't have any spare external HDDs (well I do have a 2 TB drive, but backing up over USB takes an incredibly long time, even over USB 3.0). So I don't know what I'd do., but I have two other HDDs that are used for backups, and I have been using those instead. I want to do that to have a dual boot system, as if I don't like 10, I can to back to 7 without any issue. I do have my passwords, bookmarks, and product key backed up from Chrome and Windows 7. I believe I do have UEFI, yes.

 

[tatripp]

I'm willing to bet it's some of that Malware on your PC. Even if you delete it or quarantine it, it may still be hidden. I think the best thing to do is to reset your pc to a clean install of Windows. Back up your important stuff and try that. It probably won't take too long. I try to do it to my PC every year. I'm no PC expert, but I was having weird issues when I had Malware and I thought I removed it.

 

[the_randomizer]

I'm willing to bet it's some of that Malware on your PC. Even if you delete it or quarantine it, it may still be hidden. I think the best thing to do is to reset your pc to a clean install of Windows. Back up your important stuff and try that. It probably won't take too long. I try to do it to my PC every year. I'm no PC expert, but I was having weird issues when I had Malware and I thought I removed it.

I did have malware, actually, four of them, and have since quarantined/deleted them. After Malwarebytes removed them, it asked me to reset, which I didn't do right away. After another incident, I reset it and it booted up fine, but I'm keeping a close watch. I wonder if that Meltdown Windows 7 hotfix had anything to do with this.

I personally would rather install Windows 10 on another HDD and start from scratch and not lose any data; already made a new partition on my new HDD for Windows. Unless I should reinstall Windows 7 or do a repair install; does that retain data?

Edit: Yep, I can do a repair install, just need to burn a DVD, though I wonder if USB would work.
http://www.pcgamer.com/how-to-repair-a-faulty-windows-installation-without-reformatting/

 

[tatripp]

I did have malware, actually, four of them, and have since quarantined/deleted them. After Malwarebytes removed them, it asked me to reset, which I didn't do right away. After another incident, I reset it and it booted up fine, but I'm keeping a close watch. I wonder if that Meltdown Windows 7 hotfix had anything to do with this.

I personally would rather install Windows 10 on another HDD and start from scratch and not lose any data; already made a new partition on my new HDD for Windows. Unless I should reinstall Windows 7 or do a repair install; does that retain data?

Edit: Yep, I can do a repair install, just need to burn a DVD, though I wonder if USB would work.
http://www.pcgamer.com/how-to-repair-a-faulty-windows-installation-without-reformatting/

I have done installs via usb. You should be fine. When I said "reset", I meant factory reset. It is a feature in windows that pretty much is a clean install of windows. I think with a repair install, you can save the data. I recommend you do a completely new install of Windows and wipe out everything you don't need and reinstall it. Most people, including myself, don't have that much important stuff that takes a long time to install. Every time I do a new install of Windows, I install Dropbox, Chrome, Photoshop, Office, Sony Vegas, and maybe one or two other programs. I back up all of my documents, videos, games, etc. on other hard drives.

Anyways, good luck. I wish I was a little more useful.

 

[the_randomizer]

I have done installs via usb. You should be fine. When I said "reset", I meant factory reset. It is a feature in windows that pretty much is a clean install of windows. I think with a repair install, you can save the data. I recommend you do a completely new install of Windows and wipe out everything you don't need and reinstall it. Most people, including myself, don't have that much important stuff that takes a long time to install. Every time I do a new install of Windows, I install Dropbox, Chrome, Photoshop, Office, Sony Vegas, and maybe one or two other programs. I back up all of my documents, videos, games, etc. on other hard drives.

Anyways, good luck. I wish I was a little more useful.

Well, I have a lot of vital stuff I don't want to lose, and reinstalling all the games, SFM, Steam, etc will be a pain in the butt, but that's just me. A repair install is something I can try, and if it doesn't work, I can do a clean install, possibly on a new partition, I'll do more research. But I did remove the malware, and it seems no worse for wear as a result. Will keep a close eye. What do you think about updating to 10, and using the Win 7 key? Supposedly, it's still possible.

 

[tatripp]

Well, I have a lot of vital stuff I don't want to lose, and reinstalling all the games, SFM, Steam, etc will be a pain in the butt, but that's just me. A repair install is something I can try, and if it doesn't work, I can do a clean install, possibly on a new partition, I'll do more research. But I did remove the malware, and it seems no worse for wear as a result. Will keep a close eye. What do you think about updating to 10, and using the Win 7 key? Supposedly, it's still possible.

Malwarebytes does its best to get rid of the Malware, but it doesn't always do a good job. I got something bad a while back and Malwarebytes did pretty much nothing. I could not delete it no matter what I did until I did a complete system install. It even seemed to disappear, but it was still hiding. Good luck and good night.

 

[the_randomizer]

Malwarebytes does its best to get rid of the Malware, but it doesn't always do a good job. I got something bad a while back and Malwarebytes did pretty much nothing. I could not delete it no matter what I did until I did a complete system install. It even seemed to disappear, but it was still hiding. Good luck and good night.

It seems fine so far, thank you, I'll figure something out

 

[Captain_N]

Well, I have a lot of vital stuff I don't want to lose, and reinstalling all the games, SFM, Steam, etc will be a pain in the butt, but that's just me. A repair install is something I can try, and if it doesn't work, I can do a clean install, possibly on a new partition, I'll do more research. But I did remove the malware, and it seems no worse for wear as a result. Will keep a close eye. What do you think about updating to 10, and using the Win 7 key? Supposedly, it's still possible.

It is a pain in the ass to have to reinstall. I use Acronis true image home to make images of the entire system drive. If something happens like a drive failure or a virus i can restore the entire drive. It has saved me alot.