Doctor V64 connection issue

[catlover007]

For the last years, I didn't used my N64 much and I thought: The N64 games are already that expensive, I should buy a flashcard. But after seeing the prices of EverDrive64, I thought if about other options.

Then I discovered old backup devices like the Bung Doctor V64 and decided to buy an unit on Ebay(now I regret this decision). Then when the V64 was shipped I put everything together and burned a CD with some N64 roms. Then I started the thing as instructed. Everything works until the point when I turn the N64 on. The game doesn't start, instead it gives a black screen.

The N64 is a PAL one, the games are also all PAL. The connector is not one of these fancy ones with plastic. The auction on Ebay had images where the seller shows that it's working, so I assume it does or he is a very mean person. I tried all games I own Super Mario 64(the version with Mario chased by Bowser), Pokemon Stadium and Donkey Kong 64 in the thing which goes into the top slot of the N64, but it doesn't work in any configuration.

 

[buckchow]

A few things. Really basic stuff first.

- Make sure the N64's A/V output cable is connected securely to the V64's input. If this is already fine, try connecting the N64's output directly to the TV (or other input/display device). It's possible for the relay to fail in the V64 that switches the video output, so manually switching from the V64 output to the N64 output could be necessary.
- Ensure that the N64 is pressed down firmly on the connector between the bottom of the N64 and the top of the V64.
- If the connector between the bottom of the N64 and the top of the V64 has a white plastic shell it's an old model that may not work reliably with some N64 consoles. Most V64s came with an improved connector which has a gray plastic shell.

Some more detailed stuff...

The cart you insert into the N64 is used for the save chip (if present) and the CIC chip. Ideally you'll want the cart's CIC and save chips to match the game you're playing from a CD. If the wrong CIC chip is in the cart the game won't boot unless it has been patched in some way. For lots of CIC/boot info you can look here and here.

One option is the Universal Boot Emulator. It can be burned to a CD and can be used to change the CIC. I'm pretty sure the steps are to:
- load it from the CD as if it's a game
- turn the N64 on
- adjust on-screen boot settings
- hit Stop on the V64 to make the V64's display show up
- browse to the game file, load it, and the V64 should switch back to the N64 output automatically

If you don't want to deal with the boot emulation you have the option of applying IPS patch files before you burn the CD. You can also burn IPS files to the CD and patch each time you run the game via V64's menus. For games that only have APS patch files, you can patch games with those before you burn the CD.

There's lots of other stuff I could get into, but that's probably enough to get started with. I do have to strongly recommend that you do not touch the RAM modules in the bottom of the unit. You don't want to have to buy replacements, and like computer memory in general they can fail and are quite sensitive to ESD/static damage. It would be a good idea to run the RAM tests in the V64's menus, although those aren't perfect.

Good luck!

Edit: Also, what do you mean by "The connector is not one of these fancy ones with plastic"? All of the V64 connectors and adapters are supposed have a plastic housing, although it is fairly common for the plastic to break on the connector between the bottom of the N64 and the top of the V64.

 

[catlover007]

Thank you for your reply.

- Make sure the N64's A/V output cable is connected securely to the V64's input. If this is already fine, try connecting the N64's output directly to the TV (or other input/display device). It's possible for the relay to fail in the V64 that switches the video output, so manually switching from the V64 output to the N64 output could be necessary.

I already tried this. The relay does work, I tried it by booting a N64 game without the emulation adapter and it did forward the signal. Taking the video signal directly from the N64(with emulation adapter and a game in RAM) gives also a blackscreen.

The cart you insert into the N64 is used for the save chip (if present) and the CIC chip. Ideally you'll want the cart's CIC and save chips to match the game you're playing from a CD. If the wrong CIC chip is in the cart the game won't boot unless it has been patched in some way. For lots of CIC/boot info you can look here and here.

One option is the Universal Boot Emulator. It can be burned to a CD and can be used to change the CIC. I'm pretty sure the steps are to:
- load it from the CD as if it's a game
- turn the N64 on
- adjust on-screen boot settings
- hit Stop on the V64 to make the V64's display show up
- browse to the game file, load it, and the V64 should switch back to the N64 output automatically

If you don't want to deal with the boot emulation you have the option of applying IPS patch files before you burn the CD. You can also burn IPS files to the CD and patch each time you run the game via V64's menus. For games that only have APS patch files, you can patch games with those before you burn the CD.

I can't access all links you've sended me, it returns a forbidden page.

Edit: Also, what do you mean by "The connector is not one of these fancy ones with plastic"? All of the V64 connectors and adapters are supposed have a plastic housing, although it is fairly common for the plastic to break on the connector between the bottom of the N64 and the top of the V64.

There is no plastic at all. I guess the former owner broke or lost it(here is a low quality webcam image of it: http://imgur.com/a/g1Jfb).

 

[buckchow]

I can't access all links you've sended me, it returns a forbidden page.

It looks like that site isn't working today for some reason. You can put each of the URLs into the Wayback Machine to access the page for now.

There is no plastic at all. I guess the former owner broke or lost it(here is a low quality webcam image of it: http://imgur.com/a/g1Jfb).

That's not very good. I know from experience that the connector can work without the plastic, but I can't identify if it's the white or gray model at a glance. I'll try to look into that later. For now though, are the buttons on your V64 white or gray? Unless the previous owner swapped the connection adapter at some point the color of the button plastic should match the color of the plastic that was originally around the adapter.

Have you tried any of the self-test/DRAM test options in the V64 menu yet?

 

[Peppe3]

Hello,
reviving this because i recently got my hands on one and I'm having the same issue, the connector has white plastic on it but it seems that it doesn't connect to the n64 since the n64 immediately snaps out of it as soon as i lift the console

 

[mrgone]

old devices often have the problem that their capacitors give out and leak/explode

 

[Peppe3]

it's not really a capacitor problem, it's more like a fitting problem

 

[mrgone]

do you have the connecting pcb shown in the image http://imgur.com/a/g1Jfb

 

[Peppe3]

do you have the connecting pcb shown in the image http://imgur.com/a/g1Jfb

yes i do, the only difference is that mine is encased in white plastic

 

[Peppe3]

I made a video to show my problem and to see if there is any way to fix this:

 

[buckchow]

yes i do, the only difference is that mine is encased in white plastic

My recollection is that the white-shelled connectors have a thicker connector on the top (N64-V64 interface) than the gray-shelled connectors. They didn't look that much different when I did a side-by-side comparison years ago, so it's close, but not close enough. The white connectors (and white buttons instead of gray) only came with early V64 units and supposedly fit fine on early N64 consoles which makes sense. Those connectors don't seem to fit properly on the later consoles that most people have.

You may be able to press the N64 down harder on top of the V64 to try to just barely make contact (ONLY when both devices are powered off), but trying to force anything always has some risk of damage, and contact may not be reliable enough. You'll have to test if you want to find out.

Otherwise, unless you can find just a gray-shelled connector to replace the white one with you may have luck with an N64 console with a significantly lower serial number.

Good luck!