HWFLY OLED install. I can't get the DAT0 connector to connect.

[HelloShitty]

This still doesn't make sense. if the ribbon cable is already pulling it to gnd, when the ribbon cable isn't plugged into the chip (and while the chip is operating), then how exactly does it do any timing with it?

I'm genuinely curious now and have no idea whatsovever...

You mean that SP1 and SP2 both pads (left and right) are connected to ground by design?
I have no idea either. I can only think about some bit in the chip that is set to 1 and therefore gets pulled to GND via the ribbon cable at specific timings. But if this would be the case, then what would be a capacitor doing there? A simple resistor would do it.
Unless it's the capacitor controlling the timings as we do with 555 multivibrators. I have no idea!

 

[urherenow]

Found the other video. It's by modzvilleusa. Look at around minute 57.

 

[urherenow]

You mean that SP1 and SP2 both pads (left and right) are connected to ground by design?

Too late for me to check, but there are 2 large pads on the bottom of the ribbon cable that go underneath the heat shield frame, and the frame is soldered/welded to the ground plane of the board. Modzville actually soldered those (as anchors, I was assuming) but sthetix didn't, so I didn't. I never checked for continuity between those pads and the ones on either side of sp1/2. I really want one of the installers to chime in and clear this up. Personally, my chip is working great, but you've scrambled my brains now, and I must know

 

[HelloShitty]

Found the other video. It's by modzvilleusa. Look at around minute 57.

But he's testing differently. He's testing for continuity between both terminals of the cap, that, if they are both connected to ground (I mean SP1 and SP2 pads), then yes, the cap should beep on continuity test on both cap terminals. But I couldn't hear a beep in the video!

Yes I also watched some videos where those 2 pads are soldered to the metal shield and some videos where people don't solder them.
I didn't solder them either!


Edited;
My apologies for invading the OP thread.

 

[urherenow]

But he's testing differently. He's testing for continuity between both terminals of the cap, that, if they are both connected to ground (I mean SP1 and SP2 pads), then yes, the cap should beep on continuity test on both cap terminals. But I couldn't hear a beep in the video!

Yes I also watched some videos where those 2 pads are soldered to the metal shield and some videos where people don't solder them.
I didn't solder them either!


Edited;
My apologies for invading the OP thread.

Just spoke to an actual installer on discord (the guy who actually WROTE the hwfly-nx firmware, in fact) and he confirmed what I thought. They are NOT supposed to have continuity to gnd. Your CPU shouldn't even work in this state.

 

[HelloShitty]

Just spoke to an actual installer on discord (the guy who actually WROTE the hwfly-nx firmware, in fact) and he confirmed what I thought. They are NOT supposed to have continuity to gnd. Your CPU shouldn't even work in this state.

But the guy in the video also says it should beep when you probe both capacitor terminals which also doesn't make much sense because it makes it as if the cap was out of the circuit!

 

[urherenow]

But the guy in the video also says it should beep when you probe both capacitor terminals which also doesn't make much sense because it makes it as if the cap was out of the circuit!

it does make sense as they are tiny capacitors. doesn't take much to charge one up enough to spit something out of the other side, and you aren't using 0 voltage when checking with a meter...
They probably wouldn't beep if he reversed the leads...

 

[HelloShitty]

it does make sense as they are tiny capacitors. doesn't take much to charge one up enough to spit something out of the other side, and you aren't using 0 voltage when checking with a meter...
They probably wouldn't beep if he reversed the leads...

I'm not sure I understood you or if I explained myself poorly.
Like, if we test continuity on both terminals of a capacitor, if it beeps it's because the terminals are shorted somehow (by an external connection maybe, and not internally).

And I'm not very confused with this. The guy in the video says it should beep, but we can't hear any beep when he tests continuity and another thing is what we should in fact have on these terminals of both caps of SP1 and SP2.

 

[urherenow]

I'm not sure I understood you or if I explained myself poorly.
Like, if we test continuity on both terminals of a capacitor, if it beeps it's because the terminals are shorted somehow (by an external connection maybe, and not internally).

And I'm not very confused with this. The guy in the video says it should beep, but we can't hear any beep when he tests continuity and another thing is what we should in fact have on these terminals of both caps of SP1 and SP2.

his meter wasn't next to the mic, and his exhaust is overpowering all other external noise...

 

[HelloShitty]

his meter wasn't next to the mic, and his exhaust is overpowering all other external noise...

Ok, I'll take it.

@urherenow I jsut spoke to Sthetix and he confirmed me what I was suspecting. Shorter pad of SP1 and SP2 is in fact GND. SP2 are not ground. However, (this is what I asked in Discord to another member of gbatemp but still didn't got an answer), due to the fact that resistance from these terminals (both terminals of both caps on SP1 and SP2) is very low and therefore, DMMs detect them as false shorts!

I'll measure resistance later when I get home (I'm at work right now).

 

[gokuz]

Ok, I'll take it.

@urherenow I jsut spoke to Sthetix and he confirmed me what I was suspecting. Shorter pad of SP1 and SP2 is in fact GND. SP2 are not ground. However, (this is what I asked in Discord to another member of gbatemp but still didn't got an answer), due to the fact that resistance from these terminals (both terminals of both caps on SP1 and SP2) is very low and therefore, DMMs detect them as false shorts!

I'll measure resistance later when I get home (I'm at work right now).

You need a specialized low resistance ohm meter for that.

 

[HelloShitty]

You need a specialized low resistance ohm meter for that.

Like which one? Brymen 869s is not good enough? I'm pretty sure it can measure low values of resistance!

 

[gokuz]

Like which one? Brymen 869s is not good enough? I'm pretty sure it can measure low values of resistance!

It would not get the results you want.
Get a milliohm meter or microohm meter if you're baller.

 

[HelloShitty]

It would not get the results you want.
Get a milliohm meter or microohm meter if you're baller.

I'm not a baller but I'm prtty sure I can measure 1Ohm, 8Ohm and 12Ohm, I hope! But I'll test it when I get home!

 

[gangan]

Too late for me to check, but there are 2 large pads on the bottom of the ribbon cable that go underneath the heat shield frame, and the frame is soldered/welded to the ground plane of the board. Modzville actually soldered those (as anchors, I was assuming) but sthetix didn't, so I didn't. I never checked for continuity between those pads and the ones on either side of sp1/2. I really want one of the installers to chime in and clear this up. Personally, my chip is working great, but you've scrambled my brains now, and I must know

I watched both vids and assumed those larger pads were just anchor points. I noticed sthetix didn't too, but figured they aren't REALLY needed. Soldering to the other components should hold it in place just fine, and it isn't really a stress point.

 

[gokuz]

I'm not a baller but I'm prtty sure I can measure 1Ohm, 8Ohm and 12Ohm, I hope! But I'll test it when I get home!

1,8,120 is still too big to check for cpu caps.
Get VC480C. Its milliohm.

Microohm are much expensive though.

 

[gangan]

Got her wired up. Had to replace a few wires after initial training and booting successfully. The joints looked ok through the scope, but some were bad. Guess it’s a learning process. I’m sure a better scope would help with that too.

Thankfully they were all top board. Was using silicone wire. For some reason, that stuff didn’t seem to hold as good as magnet. Traded it out and it seems to be working well now.

I did the wire near the CPU with magnet from the beginning. So if I do wind up replacing the two silicone wires that are left, it’ll just be from the DAT0 pad and the other connection on the back.

But anyway, all seems good so far. Making backups and fingers crossed all the joints are good from here on [emoji16]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gokuz]

DAT0 pad

Make sure to add solder mask on the left and right sides of it. I find that 1 joint is too flimsy.

Also, not many people know this but add solder mask on the solder joints as well. If your solder is a little bit too much, it could touch the nand shield and shorting DAT0 pin to ground. Better yet, add kapton take on the insides of the nand shield.

 

[HelloShitty]

1,8,120 is still too big to check for cpu caps.
Get VC480C. Its milliohm.

Microohm are much expensive though.

I mean, for what is needed, my DMM is ok. I think my mod chip is done and working. I may have configuration options because I seem I can't install games nor play the ones I have installed prior to the mod!

 

[gangan]

Make sure to add solder mask on the left and right sides of it. I find that 1 joint is too flimsy.

Also, not many people know this but add solder mask on the solder joints as well. If your solder is a little bit too much, it could touch the nand shield and shorting DAT0 pin to ground. Better yet, add kapton take on the insides of the nand shield.

I didn't use solder mask, but I used some resin from my resin 3d printer and cured it with a UV light. No idea, but figured it was about the same thing. I put it on both sides of the DAT0 pad, and put a dab near the contact point you scratch off on the board as well. Put it near the connection, but not over top; in case I needed to go back and resolder at a later date.

Thought about using super glue, but read if heated (assuming in liquid form) it can produce some nasty gasses. I know with brake cleaner that's chlorinated, a drop of that stuff vaporized can cause permanent lung damage. Decided resin was safer. lol