Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[White_Raven_X]

Does anyone have a solution to charge when powered off?
When my switch Is "powered off" from the switch power options, it doesn't seem to charge. I've wired my switch exactly as instructed here. The unit charges fine on sleep mode but not when powered off. I'm running hekate with autostart into ams. Thanks for the help.

 

[c3s]

hope this is working

 

[pure3d2]

Does anyone have a solution to charge when powered off?
When my switch I'd "powered off" from the switch power options, it doesn't seem to charge. I've wired my switch exactly as instructed here. The unit charges fine on sleep mode but not when powered off. I'm running hekate with autostart into ams. Thanks for the help.

If it's off and you plug in the charger, it will go into RCM mode. Unplug the charger and it'll boot up, then plug it back in so that it can charge.

 

[White_Raven_X]

If it's off and you plug in the charger, it will go into RCM mode. Unplug the charger and it'll boot up, then plug it back in so that it can charge.

Are you saying that I cannot charge the switch while it is off anymore?

 

[White_Raven_X]

So I've tried different scenario's, but it seems that I cannot charge the unit when powered off from switch os/ams. Looks like I need to hold the power button for 15 seconds (hard power off) to get the unit to be completely off (not in rcm) to be able to charge. Is there any way to fix this? I do not use auto rcm. My unit is setup with the trinket m0 and I've connected all soldered wires. I've tested to see if they are all connected and discovered by the system. Everything seems good. I'm also using the latest files on my trinket.

 

[pure3d2]

So I've tried different scenario's, but it seems that I cannot charge the unit when powered off from switch os/ams. Looks like I need to hold the power button for 15 seconds (hard power off) to get the unit to be completely off (not in rcm) to be able to charge. Is there any way to fix this? I do not use auto rcm. My unit is setup with the trinket m0 and I've connected all soldered wires. I've tested to see if they are all connected and discovered by the system. Everything seems good. I'm also using the latest files on my trinket.

I have all of my wires connected just like you.

Here's what happens when I hook up a charger when my Switch is completely turned off:

Black screen (charging 5.15V @0.41A)

At black screen, unplugging the charger: Switch starts booting

plug charger back in: charging 5.22V @1.35A

When I'm referring to auto RCM in the context of the trinket M0, I mean that the Switch is in RCM mode (black screen, Switch is on). If your battery runs out and you plug in a charger, it'll slowly charge until there's enough juice for the Switch to display the battery icon.

 

[White_Raven_X]

I have all of my wires connected just like you.

Here's what happens when I hook up a charger when my Switch is completely turned off:

Black screen (charging 5.15V @0.41A)

At black screen, unplugging the charger: Switch starts booting

plug charger back in: charging 5.22V @1.35A

When I'm referring to auto RCM in the context of the trinket M0, I mean that the Switch is in RCM mode (black screen, Switch is on). If your battery runs out and you plug in a charger, it'll slowly charge until there's enough juice for the Switch to display the battery icon.

Just trying to find a solution so that I can charge it while fully turned off just like "officially" intended. May need to add a switch or something to disconnect the power going to the trinket when I want to charge while console is off (as it charges faster). Or would it be disconnecting the rcm?

 

[White_Raven_X]

I disconnected the strap "usb disconnect" and the switch charges while being fully turned off. Everything seems perfectly fine now. The only thing is that when plugging in the power supply while the switch is off it activates the trinket and therefore puts the switch into rcm... Once the switch is fully charged I need to long press power (15 seconds) to completely turn off, then I can turn back on (without the power connected) and it loads up just fine.
Charging while fully powered off charges at 0.69amps and 8.90 watts
Charging while powered on but screen off charges at 0.24amps and 3.65watts.

So the fast charge only happens when the unit is completely powered off. This is what I wanted to achieve. But like I said, I'm still left with having to long press power to disconnect from rcm mode and then power up again without anything connected to the usb to be able to load.

 

[Godwin_Point]

Hello,
I'm coming here as a complete beginner, I knew about software mod, but it's the first time I'm hearing about the trinket mod.

I was looking for a used switch and found an offer at a good price, however, the owner is saying that it only boots on this screen.


He thinks that a tirnket is installed because it has a small pushbutton on the backplate.

Is this black screen recoverable ? (I don't mind messing arround for a while to get it to work, but I don't wan't to buy a fully bricked product :o) )

Reading arround, I found that you just need to update the payload on the trinket, but I do'nt know if this applies to this specific black screen

Could it be a soldering issue/is it possible to fully remove the trinket and just go the RCM route in the worst case scenario ?

Thanks !

 

[White_Raven_X]

Hello,
I'm coming here as a complete beginner, I knew about software mod, but it's the first time I'm hearing about the trinket mod.

I was looking for a used switch and found an offer at a good price, however, the owner is saying that it only boots on this screen.


He thinks that a tirnket is installed because it has a small pushbutton on the backplate.

Is this black screen recoverable ? (I don't mind messing arround for a while to get it to work, but I don't wan't to buy a fully bricked product :o) )

Reading arround, I found that you just need to update the payload on the trinket, but I do'nt know if this applies to this specific black screen

Could it be a soldering issue/is it possible to fully remove the trinket and just go the RCM route in the worst case scenario ?

Thanks !

It looks to me like he's just missing the SD card files.
Unfortunately I think you may have to bite the bullet and buy it and have a look at what it needs. Without going through the unit... They're isn't really any way of knowing exactly what it needs. You may be able to boot up normally but you would need the unit in your hands to try... Like holding volume up or down on boot could take you to the menu...
Sorry if this doesn't really help. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[Hayato213]

Hello,
I'm coming here as a complete beginner, I knew about software mod, but it's the first time I'm hearing about the trinket mod.

I was looking for a used switch and found an offer at a good price, however, the owner is saying that it only boots on this screen.


He thinks that a tirnket is installed because it has a small pushbutton on the backplate.

Is this black screen recoverable ? (I don't mind messing arround for a while to get it to work, but I don't wan't to buy a fully bricked product :o) )

Reading arround, I found that you just need to update the payload on the trinket, but I do'nt know if this applies to this specific black screen

Could it be a soldering issue/is it possible to fully remove the trinket and just go the RCM route in the worst case scenario ?

Thanks !

Let see you could asks him to try to boot into simple version of hekate, basically the non GUI version of Hekate to confirm that a trinket is installed, If you get one that doesn't boot into Horizon OS then it is a waste of money, I bought one with a trinket M0 installed off someone off ebay before, the guy didn't know how to configure the cfw setup correctly so I got one for $175. Well asks the guy if he can boot into Stock (Non CFW).

 

[Godwin_Point]

Okay, thanks for the precisions : )

 

[jesterscourt]

My switch was modded with a Trinket earlier this year by a former member of this forum.
Something happened and I couldn't get it to boot into CFW, I found a pack online and that meant I couldn't even boot into OFW.

The last working setup was Atmos 0.12 + Neutros - base FW was 9.1.0 on a v1 launch Switch

Which files designate for the trinket to launch autoRCM? It used to launch with Power+Vol Up
If possible, I would prefer to get it back up and running on a newer firmware (for better reliability with Moonlight) and default to powering into CFW with power.

 

[Eldritch]

I bought a cheap unpatched console but the display connector is faulty so nothing shows on the screen although the touchscreen still works.

Is this mod still possible using it docked?

I'm only interested in perma-cfw.

Thanks

 

[Hayato213]

I bought a cheap unpatched console but the display connector is faulty so nothing shows on the screen although the touchscreen still works.

Is this mod still possible using it docked?

I'm only interested in perma-cfw.

Thanks

Not much of an use to you if you have no screen.

 

[fvig2001]

Hi. I'm thinking of installing an RCM X86 on my switches. I have a few questions based on an installation video, the main post and others.

1. Is the RCM X86 still a good option for unpatched v1s (found some in a local online store)?
2. Is the plastic reed RMC x86 switch models good?
3. On an installation video, the guy seemingly shorted the 2 3.3v pins and soldered the wire on the eMMC. Is this needed? Can I just use one pin?
4. If I use autoRCM, I just need to solder d-,d+, gnd and 3.3v? Will this affect battery badly?
5. If I only plan to use Hekate, do I just do the magnet method to change the default payload every time hekate updates?

Thanks

 

[Matius]

Hi. I'm thinking of installing an RCM X86 on my switches. I have a few questions based on an installation video, the main post and others.

1. Is the RCM X86 still a good option for unpatched v1s (found some in a local online store)?
2. Is the plastic reed RMC x86 switch models good?
3. On an installation video, the guy seemingly shorted the 2 3.3v pins and soldered the wire on the eMMC. Is this needed? Can I just use one pin?
4. If I use autoRCM, I just need to solder d-,d+, gnd and 3.3v? Will this affect battery badly?
5. If I only plan to use Hekate, do I just do the magnet method to change the default payload every time hekate updates?

Thanks

1 idk, should be but i used a triket
2 idk
3 you can use 1 or the 2 combined. 2 makes it easier to have a bigger pad (make sure you have a nand backup before removing the emmc)
4 yes, you need auto rcm them. not sure on battery. but i just soldered to the joyon strap
5) not sure what you mean, i just update hekate via sd card

 

[s7b031]

Hi all,

I am trying to install an rcm-x86 modchip (black version) to a Switch V1 not patched.
I installed the wire same as the green chip but the console is still booting on the original dashboard even if I press + ou - vol button.
Does I need to flash the chip before all ?
Thanks for your help.

Here the picture of the chip I received.

 

[de9ed]

I have a few questions about rcm x86.

1. what kind of insulation do you guys use Kapton tape, electrical tape, or just double-sided tape for an install on the metal shield like the one in the picture

2. What does the resistor do and is it needed ( circled in red) ? I only know it connect gnd and res.

3. How do I access and update the uf2 files? what does the reset button (circled in red) do on the trinket? or do I have to use a magnet to short something to access and update uf2 files on the pc?

 

[sofakng]

Is there any alternate pads for Vol+ ? I know it's optional but I'd like to solder it if possible.

However, I'm having the hardest time getting that one. The other's I didn't have much problems with but that one is tough. I'm also not sure if I slightly lifted the capacitor off the board but I think it's OK.