I've just checked the d0 flex nand the pin that goes inside has been broken.
Need to do a permanent pin and reball the nand.
Will do that tomorrow or week-end most likely.
Thanks for the help.
PicoFly install (with some messy wires) on SkHynix OLED with lots of kapton (
), removed only the USB and buttons (voltage regulator is still there), everything fitted nicely and closed the shell without problems. Now I can have a beer while my gf enjoys Animal Crossing.
This is amazing!! Thanks again @rehius for making this possible!
), removed only the USB and buttons (voltage regulator is still there), everything fitted nicely and closed the shell without problems. Now I can have a beer while my gf enjoys Animal Crossing. This is amazing!! Thanks again @rehius for making this possible!
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Plug it into your PC, copy over the first .uf2 file to the drive that appears. Chip resets. Unplug, replug, copy over second file. Chip resets. Done.
Never did get a definitive answer on this, anyone know if you can reverse D+\- on the PZero? The traces I see on the board make me think so.
So first the firmware then the unlock uf2?
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and i hold the boot button for both?
Yes and Yes (though the order doesn't matter actually since it flashes specific memory address for different files).
Look here
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Some people didn't have much luck with it previously --> by using FW + unlock separated files from rehius, they work the best, you just invest another 10s when flashing and save yourself from unnecessary headache.
Last edited by Phantomas77,
You should need one of these two setups, since lites are all V2 boards. If you put one mosfet on and have problems with consistently glitching, then it's suggested to put the second mosfet just like the hwfly cable has.
or have issues with not glitching at all blue then cyan led
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nice im working on mine at the moment to just set the permanent Dat0 pin.PicoFly install (with some messy wires) on SkHynix OLED with lots of kapton (
This is amazing!! Thanks again @rehius for making this possible!
thing im gonna reball and reflow the emmc tommorow
i also have the skynix emmc
Ok thanks. I have the rp 2040 zero, after flashing the light goes green. Also after plugging it into my pc after flashing ( without booting it) the light goes blue and then white/cyan. Is that good?
I had as well green light after flashing, just solder together the two pins on the back to put the RP on RGB mode as already mentioned by rehius, so you get the RGB mode and could rely on LED color for troubleshooting if needed.
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Some weird sh*t for some users, don't remember exactly the problem and won't spend time digging the posts. Just flash both files and should be ok.
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Trouble in paradise...
I had the thing done, licked, complete. I was booted into CFW on emuNAND and was loading retroarch. I suppose I didn't put enough thermal paste and the console started to overheat and shut itself off into "sleep mode". It turned back on once or twice, but I heard a small pop and then it wouldn't boot into Hekate. It would still attempt to load the IPL hekate asking for an sd card, but if I inserted an sd card, I would get a successful glitch, and then console would reboot/turn off. I could keep getting successful glitches, but the software would never boot. From the SD screen of IPL hekate, I also could not boot into OFW with the VOL +/VOL - button combo, it would reboot/turn off as well.
As of getting home from work today, after leaving the switch on the charger all day, it doesn't even attempt to glitch (no lights on the rp2040, no screen turn on from the switch, and no more IPL hekate). I'm pretty sad here guys, I don't know what to do to fix this, but I presume it is now power circuit related, unless I've just fried my APU.
Any suggestions before I start shopping for a replacement motherboard?
I had the thing done, licked, complete. I was booted into CFW on emuNAND and was loading retroarch. I suppose I didn't put enough thermal paste and the console started to overheat and shut itself off into "sleep mode". It turned back on once or twice, but I heard a small pop and then it wouldn't boot into Hekate. It would still attempt to load the IPL hekate asking for an sd card, but if I inserted an sd card, I would get a successful glitch, and then console would reboot/turn off. I could keep getting successful glitches, but the software would never boot. From the SD screen of IPL hekate, I also could not boot into OFW with the VOL +/VOL - button combo, it would reboot/turn off as well.
As of getting home from work today, after leaving the switch on the charger all day, it doesn't even attempt to glitch (no lights on the rp2040, no screen turn on from the switch, and no more IPL hekate). I'm pretty sad here guys, I don't know what to do to fix this, but I presume it is now power circuit related, unless I've just fried my APU.
Any suggestions before I start shopping for a replacement motherboard?
No need for that, this is only for setting the LED output mode for RGB.
When you install the PicoFly, by the end of glitching/training session you should get a nice green light and then the LED goes off.
Try desoldering everything, get the switch back to normal, if it boots u probably messed up soldering somewhere, if it doesn't, well u still messed up the soldering but worse i guess . I don't think the switch would overheat so much that it dies.
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Alright, thanks for the help
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