Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Takezo-San]

Quick question. Theoretically speaking. What would happen if, a modchip was glitching and the power was cut by disconnecting the battery? Would that corrupt the NAND? Theoretically.......hehe...hehe

 

[jkyoho]

Some mods have nothing to do with practicality, and everything to do with COOL points.

Very true, I will just patiently wait for the details from him

 

[cgtchy0412]

Hi @abal1000x , confirmed for lite .. tested also .. as always with aon mosfet.. now just need to tidy things up. Thanks for the research.

Just completed it, its holiday here.. haha
RIP hwfly flex cable.
Thanks for you all here.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Hi!
I accidentally removed and lost these two caps right now on a zero. (i marked it with yellow.)
what cap is these two?
i need to replace them or i can just leave it be and gonna work like this?

Most caps are there to smooth out any ripples in the power rails.
They are there for extra stability so if for some reason everything feels unstable, those missing caps might be the reason.
Since the board is not under heavy load or does not have to power any additional circuitry, I presume you won't notice the difference.

The one on the top near the voltage regulator is at least one of such stabilization caps.
I think it is 1uF according to the schematic on this page :
https://www.digikey.com/en/maker/pr...-1-schematic/c4326f0fd813413698d617cf625125ee
I don't know where the other is connected too.
Most other caps are either 1uF or 0.1 uF.
So just try it and if things are sometimes unstable, just add some capacitor you have at hand.

 

[Ragna666]

Most caps are there to smooth out any ripples in the power rails.
They are there for extra stability so if for some reason everything feels unstable, those missing caps might be the reason.
Since the board is not under heavy load or does not have to power any additional circuitry, I presume you won't notice the difference.

The one on the top near the voltage regulator is at least one of such stabilization caps.
I think it is 1uF according to the schematic on this page :
https://www.digikey.com/en/maker/pr...-1-schematic/c4326f0fd813413698d617cf625125ee
I don't know where the other is connected too.
Most other caps are either 1uF or 0.1 uF.
So just try it and if things are sometimes unstable, just add some capacitor you have at hand.

thanks.
so it's not like it's gonna kill the switch or anything?
i have a other two that have missing caps near the type c connector and don't have one by default, that caps needed or it's just for the type c connection?

i'm going to rape 2 switch for my little brothers so in the worst case i can sacrifice one to make the other 2 whole.
i can wait 2weeks for my oled, just my lil brats nagging me when i'm gonna mod their switches.

 

[Dee87]

Just completed it, its holiday here.. haha
RIP hwfly flex cable.
Thanks for you all here.

Looks good and Congrats

glad u got rid of that hwfly Trash Xd

next time use thinner wires then it looks even better :-)

 

[vulp_vibes]

Spoiler: temporarily spoilered due to potential technical issue in the non-lite install

@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.

DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):

edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward

 

[Dee87]

@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the schematic for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.

View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 380940

points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):

View attachment 380939View attachment 380936

nice thanks for the info just for the fun of it i will probally do it someday
probally get the switch running way faster and with better cooling performance Xd

 

[raksmey1231]

Single Mosfet IRFHS8342 & NP2016 work fine without SDA/SCL points
let's say goodbye to HWfly flex cable & SDA/SCL points
Thanks for sharing @abal1000x

 

[kronicd]

So I've gotten this switch modded, hekate boots fine, but...

It no longer boots OFW (volume buttons held down), instead I just get a black screen

SysNAND CFW boot results in the following:

EmuMMC CFW boot results in the following:

The switch has never been modded before, I made a backup immediately after the mod was complete, but it was already in this state by then

Any advice?

 

[abal1000x]

So I've gotten this switch modded, hekate boots fine, but...

It no longer boots OFW (volume buttons held down), instead I just get a black screen

SysNAND CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380966

EmuMMC CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380967

The switch has never been modded before, I made a backup immediately after the mod was complete, but it was already in this state by then

Any advice?

Add resistor on cmd and/or dat0 so the value around 100 ohms.
If existing resistor is 47ohms, people usually add it with another 47ohms.

 

[bilalhassan341]

So I've gotten this switch modded, hekate boots fine, but...

It no longer boots OFW (volume buttons held down), instead I just get a black screen

SysNAND CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380966

EmuMMC CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380967

The switch has never been modded before, I made a backup immediately after the mod was complete, but it was already in this state by then

Any advice?

What is the format of the SD card if it is Exfat change it to fat32.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

thanks.
so it's not like it's gonna kill the switch or anything?
i have a other two that have missing caps near the type c connector and don't have one by default, that caps needed or it's just for the type c connection?

i'm going to rape 2 switch for my little brothers so in the worst case i can sacrifice one to make the other 2 whole.
i can wait 2weeks for my oled, just my lil brats nagging me when i'm gonna mod their switches.

You could even get some normal capacitors from some other device.
These low value capacitors are everywhere.

 

[abal1000x]

What is your opinion if the error code is throws to the audio speaker.
Since speaker exist on every tipe of switch?

 

[kronicd]

What is the format of the SD card if it is Exfat change it to fat32.

Already fat32, thanks for the suggestion though!

Add resistor on cmd and/or dat0 so the value around 100 ohms.
If existing resistor is 47ohms, people usually add it with another 47ohms.

I'll shorten my wires and give this a shot if that doesn't work. Thanks!

 

[jmmc]

I’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?

 

[cgtchy0412]

So I've gotten this switch modded, hekate boots fine, but...

It no longer boots OFW (volume buttons held down), instead I just get a black screen

SysNAND CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380966

EmuMMC CFW boot results in the following:

View attachment 380967

The switch has never been modded before, I made a backup immediately after the mod was complete, but it was already in this state by then

Any advice?

Remove the SDCard then try too boot into OFW.
If still black screen then you need to clean up clk, cmd solrder point... better to redo also.

 

[abal1000x]

I’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?

Looks good to me, not the bulky rounded touch point.

 

[twins333]

Does anyone have the 2.74, it’s so much faster than 2.73 at least in some of my previous installations. I want to install them on newers

github.<remove this space>com<remove this space>/Ansem-SoD/Picofly/tree/main/Firmwares/Archived/2.74

 

[QuiTim]

@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.

View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:

View attachment 380940

points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):

View attachment 380939View attachment 380936

edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward

View attachment 380957

Thank you so much for putting all this work in just so we can have a clear idea of how to do this.
Very much appreciated.