Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

freso

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Can anyone tell me if the capacitors in the flex cable has to do with boot time because my ship boot different every time I turn the console off and on
Post automatically merged:

Wich capacitors can be swapped to the CPU from rp2040 tiny?
Post automatically merged:

I messed the 2 capacitors on CPU can someone help me to find them in the rp2040 tiny to swap them the switch is for a client and he can't wait
 

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Hassal

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When i work at Quartz Crystal Resonator, its part of SOP to clean the crystal on the alcohol.
Both ethanol or methanol. Ethanol cheaper more dirty, methanol more pricy but more clean.
Its done on every step, lapping, shaping, bevelling, etching, QC, etc.
Its done 7x24 hours.

So i am pretty sure that using alcohol in ultrasonic is practically safe.
Its by my experience on the industry for around 3 years, before its collapsed, can't compete with chinese QCR prices.

Its just use standard ultrasonic devices in industry, such as ultrasonic frequency generator, and custom piezoelectric bolted to a big aluminium can. Theres no special equipment.

Even 1 meter above the ultrasonic device is a heater (using gas), because the ultrasonic also used on hot water to clean some lapping powder. Alcohol is pricy, so only used at the last step before moving to other department.


The problem with ultrasonic, is not about explosion, but your component on the pcb might broke. Ultrasonic mechanically shake the component. For example inside the crystal oscillator component theres Quartz Crystal usually glued using Silver based glue or Gold based glue. Usually the cheap crystal using silver based one are more worst than the gold one. And the shake from the ulstrasonic cleaner might reduce the quality of the glue when you clean the pcb (including the crystal) inside the ultrasonic cleaner.
Industry grade equipment have different safety measures while the cheap equipment you get from aliexpress would be lacking in every aspect, better to practice safety than end up a kfc.

Besides, using a flammable solvent isn't recommended if you're a hobbyist. But if you insist in using it you can isolate it in a separate container which works well for small pcbs.
 

abal1000x

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Industry grade equipment have different safety measures while the cheap equipment you get from aliexpress would be lacking in every aspect, better to practice safety than end up a kfc.

Besides, using a flammable solvent isn't recommended if you're a hobbyist. But if you insist in using it you can isolate it in a separate container which works well for small pcbs.
By experience, it seems the probability that ultrasonic could 'explode' alcohol solvent is almost diminish.
I have never watch its ever happened in my whole life.

The probability of static electricity on gas station to burn gasoline seems higher, since i could find lot of video of it.
The probability of Hydrogen explode on H20 electrolysis also higher, since i could find a lot of video of it.
The probability of Lithium battery explode is higher, i even experience it myself. The drone battery spontaneously explode.

Alcohol, even if you intently burn it, theres no explosion, only flame. Sometimes i play this kind of thing.
But instanteously alcohol 'explode' because of ultrasonic wave, thats i have never watch until now.
I even intently want it to happened, but it didn't. Its so difficult to spontaneously explode alcohol, only using ultrasonic.
Even make it spontaneously burn (not explode) using ultrasonic is seems impossible.

Spontaneous explosion is the least thing i ever worried, on using alcohol on ultrasonic.
The probability was so small.
Maybe using a huge power of piezo transducer to generate the ultrasonic, might induce the spontaneous burn.
But using the 'normal' cleaning piezo, it almost never happened.
 

Sandmann

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Can anyone tell me if the capacitors in the flex cable has to do with boot time because my ship boot different every time I turn the console off and on
Post automatically merged:

Wich capacitors can be swapped to the CPU from rp2040 tiny?
Post automatically merged:

I messed the 2 capacitors on CPU can someone help me to find them in the rp2040 tiny to swap them the switch is for a client and he can't wait
Look this:
https://ibb.co/2d4K7Hh
 
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thesjaakspoiler

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Can anyone tell me if the capacitors in the flex cable has to do with boot time because my ship boot different every time I turn the console off and on
I presume you have some HWfly flex cable.
According to this post, there aren't any capacitors on the flex cable, only resistors.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/hwfly-lite-cable-components.626438/
The resistors are only on the rp2040 board. Look through this topic for the appropriate value for your Switch because some values give better results than others.
 
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deathnotejacoby

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Hello,
I have already converted many OLEDs, but there are always problems. Currently, I have encountered a problem again. I've had this problem twice with the Nx-Instinct V6 OLED Modchip. However, at that time, I was still working with flex PCBs. Now, I'm wiring all contacts individually without a PCB (except for the CPU, of course).
Initially, the Switch runs completely normal. I leave it in standby overnight, but the next day, the Switch is suddenly turned off. When I turn it on, I get short-long beeps (error code for DAT 0), but there is no picture.
I have checked everything again and found that while the DAT0 connection has contact, it has a diode voltage of 0.47V (initially 0.72V). I desoldered everything, but there was no change (I had the same problem with the V6 Instinct).
Has anyone encountered such a problem before? All contacts are clean and neatly soldered. I'm using RP Tiny F/W 2.73.
Thank you.
 

thesjaakspoiler

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Hello,
I have already converted many OLEDs, but there are always problems. Currently, I have encountered a problem again. I've had this problem twice with the Nx-Instinct V6 OLED Modchip. However, at that time, I was still working with flex PCBs. Now, I'm wiring all contacts individually without a PCB (except for the CPU, of course).
Initially, the Switch runs completely normal. I leave it in standby overnight, but the next day, the Switch is suddenly turned off. When I turn it on, I get short-long beeps (error code for DAT 0), but there is no picture.
I have checked everything again and found that while the DAT0 connection has contact, it has a diode voltage of 0.47V (initially 0.72V). I desoldered everything, but there was no change (I had the same problem with the V6 Instinct).
Has anyone encountered such a problem before? All contacts are clean and neatly soldered. I'm using RP Tiny F/W 2.73.
Thank you.
Some pictures would be helpfull.
it has a diode voltage of 0.47V
Are you using a DAT0 adapter or do you solder a wire directly?
 

deathnotejacoby

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Yes i used DATA0 Adapter for solder. I dont wire direclty. i dont heat the eemc.
i wondering that the diode value is now 0,42V and 0,47V.
the error code is long short. =* yellow
Post automatically merged:

Hey,
i change the 4,7kOhm resistor ... now it is working ....
next question.
sometimes the process takes longer than with other Nintendo OLED. For some it takes significantly longer and for others it takes a shorter time until it starts.
does it help to change tthe 47ohm to 100ohm? CMD and DAT0?
 
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Haldamir

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Orig Order.png



Wondering if someone can answer a question about the RP2040 switch lite flex cable. So I ordered the above from AliExpress and messed up the install of the black flex cable shown above (The yellow is fine). I couldn't get the points to solder to the resistors.

I need to order a replacement black flex and I have two options.

Number 1: The original identical flex cable from AliExpress (3 weeks Deliver). FL1v1-2 matches what came originally in pic 1.
Ali Flex.png



Number 2: From Amazon (2 days delivery):
AZ Flex.png


What confuses me are the different version numbers on each cable (FL1v102 vs F2v1-7). Are they the same and just a different rev or completely different?

Can anyone advise please? :)
 

jkyoho

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View attachment 427241


Wondering if someone can answer a question about the RP2040 switch lite flex cable. So I ordered the above from AliExpress and messed up the install of the black flex cable shown above (The yellow is fine). I couldn't get the points to solder to the resistors.

I need to order a replacement black flex and I have two options.

Number 1: The original identical flex cable from AliExpress (3 weeks Deliver). FL1v1-2 matches what came originally in pic 1.
View attachment 427242


Number 2: From Amazon (2 days delivery):
View attachment 427244

What confuses me are the different version numbers on each cable (FL1v102 vs F2v1-7). Are they the same and just a different rev or completely different?

Can anyone advise please? :)
CLEARLY F2v1-7 is for v2 not for LITE, just look at the orientation of the output gold fingers.
whatever label printing on the flex does not matter, its the shape/style defines what model(v1/v2/lite/OLED) they are compatible for custom(hwfly style) modchip
 

keine

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Does anyone else have an issue where if they leave their HWFLY (PICO) modded OLED off charger for a long time.

That the time it takes for the OLED to become responsive again after being plugged in is a long long long time.

I don't know how long. I always think my system is hosed, but then I let it charge even more and it comes around. Talking many hours....not days.

I would think I'd be able to boot (glitch) again the moment I plug the unit in. Then it'd charge.


Never-mind.....this happens with 70% charge and after just shutting it down from the option or holding power for 12 seconds.


Power button seems unresponsive......and I don't see any lights. Sometimes it works.....can't figure it out.
You'd think. If I shut it down. Hold power.....I'd see some kind of lights again after holding power button.
So odd. Can't find the pattern. Sometimes the power button produces lights. Sometimes not.....
Are these just all failed glitches?

It almost seems like the system is still on and I need to hold power for 12 seconds. Wait. Wait. Wait.
Then hold power again. So odd. Whenever I do see lights though again, it works. Perfect. Hektate powers right on.
 
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Vigintiduo

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Hi, if I'm working on a Switch Lite and I want to place the rp2040 on top of the emmc shield, are there any optimal and closer 3.3v and gnd points that I can source from?
 

jkyoho

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Hi, if I'm working on a Switch Lite and I want to place the rp2040 on top of the emmc shield, are there any optimal and closer 3.3v and gnd points that I can source from?
1711212794115.png
pin1cap of the thermal sensor chip in red mark
 

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deeps

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Does anyone else have an issue where if they leave their HWFLY (PICO) modded OLED off charger for a long time.

That the time it takes for the OLED to become responsive again after being plugged in is a long long long time.

I don't know how long. I always think my system is hosed, but then I let it charge even more and it comes around. Talking many hours....not days.

I would think I'd be able to boot (glitch) again the moment I plug the unit in. Then it'd charge.


Never-mind.....this happens with 70% charge and after just shutting it down from the option or holding power for 12 seconds.


Power button seems unresponsive......and I don't see any lights. Sometimes it works.....can't figure it out.
You'd think. If I shut it down. Hold power.....I'd see some kind of lights again after holding power button.
So odd. Can't find the pattern. Sometimes the power button produces lights. Sometimes not.....
Are these just all failed glitches?

It almost seems like the system is still on and I need to hold power for 12 seconds. Wait. Wait. Wait.
Then hold power again. So odd. Whenever I do see lights though again, it works. Perfect. Hektate powers right on.

it has rebooted into recovery mode. try connecting a usb cable from your pc to the switch when it is in this state and things will happen. this happens because your chip is crap.
 

keine

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it has rebooted into recovery mode. try connecting a usb cable from your pc to the switch when it is in this state and things will happen. this happens because your chip is crap.

Interesting! Thanks. Much appreciated. I can work with this.
Any other pointers? Change out chip to something different?
 

deeps

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Interesting! Thanks. Much appreciated. I can work with this.
Any other pointers? Change out chip to something different?

I would start by checking the dat0/cmd resistors (on the chip pcb). if they are 47 ohm they should be replaced with 100 ohm. if this doesn't help i'd try reseating and cleaning around the dat0 adapter. if still no go, get an rp2040-zero or tiny and ditch the hwfly garbage
 

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