Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Phantomas77]

Do the console boot without the chip? If not check the 3.3v rail if it is shorted or not. If it is not shorted check the voltage when you plug the power cable in to see if the 3.3v rail give you 3.3v or not. If it is not then check your 3.3v regulator.

The console is at black screen, even with chip removed.

I followed your suggestion and got an "overview" with the thermal camera, you were right! It looks like it's +7780 1EWP IC, which seems to be a buck converter for the +3.3V rail I imagine. Thank you for your help!

I attached few photos, it started to overheat as hell with only battery connected.

Does anyone know where I can source this IC's easily (withou Ali waiting time)?

 

[jkyoho]

The console is at black screen, even with chip removed.

I followed your suggestion and got an "overview" with the thermal camera, you were right! It looks like it's +7780 1EWP IC, which seems to be a buck converter for the +3.3V rail I imagine. Thank you for your help!

I attached few photos, it started to overheat as hell with only battery connected.

Does anyone know where I can source this IC's easily (withou Ali waiting time)?

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/analog-devices-inc-maxim-integrated/MAX77801EWP-T/5232976

 

[Haldamir]

Currently soldering a hwfly lite and struggling to solder the flex cable to the CPU caps. I've done regular switches before without any issues. The solder won't stick properly (the yellow flex was fine). Iron is at 350c. Any tips for getting SP1 and sp2 soldered. I've read using tweezers to hold the flex down or some tape helps. Anything else?

Also once everything is done, do I just plug in the battery or charger and press power button to boot it up to ensure everything is fine or does the games cartridge slot need to be plugged back in also?

 

[abal1000x]

The console is at black screen, even with chip removed.

I followed your suggestion and got an "overview" with the thermal camera, you were right! It looks like it's +7780 1EWP IC, which seems to be a buck converter for the +3.3V rail I imagine. Thank you for your help!

I attached few photos, it started to overheat as hell with only battery connected.

Does anyone know where I can source this IC's easily (withou Ali waiting time)?

Might try to reheat it little bit, maybe it got too heated before and accidentally desolder itself.

Post automatically merged: Apr 8, 2024

On switch OLED I'm getting everytime the same error *== "No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)" does anyone has any clue what it could be??



Here is what I've checked until now:

1. All the wiring, they're soldered properly (I'm using the same wire that I've already used in the past with other oleds)

2. Added a second resistor on dat0 and cmd (in total 97 Ohm)

3. Chaged the dat0 adapter

4. Changed hwfly flex cable for the apu (from v3 to v2, that has previously worked)

5. Changed the wire of the the clk with a thinner one, the error hasn't changed, so I switched back to my usual wire

6. Switched rp2040 with another one



After all this, the picofly keeps giving m
e the same error.

What version of the fw you used?

Post automatically merged: Apr 8, 2024

Currently soldering a hwfly lite and struggling to solder the flex cable to the CPU caps. I've done regular switches before without any issues. The solder won't stick properly (the yellow flex was fine). Iron is at 350c. Any tips for getting SP1 and sp2 soldered. I've read using tweezers to hold the flex down or some tape helps. Anything else?

Also once everything is done, do I just plug in the battery or charger and press power button to boot it up to ensure everything is fine or does the games cartridge slot need to be plugged back in also?

Clean with IPA from the residue than use lot of flux.
If necessary, use a bigger tip (such as hoof tip) to make the heat flow higher.

 

[Brunh]

Hi need help I'm install rp2040 tiny first boot work no problems after turn off not working more just go to OfW e get led blue and white and green ,stays on green light, and rp2040 just can install firmware low 267 ,I try up 270 rp2040 not have led on nintendo go to OFW

 

[abal1000x]

Hi need help I'm install rp2040 tiny first boot work no problems after turn off not working more just go to OfW e get led blue and white and green ,stays on green light, and rp2040 just can install firmware low 267 ,I try up 270 rp2040 not have led on nintendo go to OFW

try use the latest fw 275

 

[Brunh]

try use the latest fw 275

I already try up 2.7 rp2040 not work dead no lights just accepted lower 2 6.7 at least turn on the lights

 

[psycho-neon]

I already try up 2.7 rp2040 not work dead no lights just accepted lower 2 6.7 at least turn on the lights

If that is a clone rp2040 tiny check the pull down resistor on the LED. Try to remove it.

 

[Phantomas77]

Could anyone confirm if this is an inductor and not a capacitor (under +7780 1EWP) voltage regulator? It results shorted in my case.

 

[abal1000x]

Could anyone confirm if this is an inductor and not a capacitor (under +7780 1EWP) voltage regulator? It results shorted in my case.

From the link that hassal give in the past

Also by experience, that is inductor not capacitor.
Inductor usually have rough surface compare to capacitor.

 

[Brunh]

If that is a clone rp2040 tiny check the pull down resistor on the LED. Try to remove it.

What resistor? On side led?

 

[bvang913]

What resistor? On side led?

If it's not an actual Wave Share tiny, then yes remove that one. I just did that to two of these over the weekend and can confirm that it works.

 

[jkyoho]

What resistor? On side led?

10k ohm from waveshare rp2040-tiny datasheet

 

[Brunh]

10k ohm from waveshare rp2040-tiny datasheet

So just remove R5 etc
Thanks

 

[bvang913]

So just remove R5 etc
Thanks

Yes

 

[Carquinca]

Hey guys, Im new to this and I modded an oled with picofly, everything was running fine for weeks but I left it on the dock overnight and I was greeted by a bsod, followed after these images. The console was warm in the morning.
The No SD card screen from the picofly can be seen without artifacts, but anything past that has artifacts in the screen and does not go past the hekate loading screen.
Edit:
Booting with +- shows bsod again.
What do you guys think the issue could be? Ram or CPU reballing? Anything else worth trying?

 

[abal1000x]

Hey guys, Im new to this and I modded an oled with picofly, everything was running fine for weeks but I left it on the dock overnight and I was greeted by a bsod, followed after these images. The console was warm in the morning.
The No SD card screen from the picofly can be seen without artifacts, but anything past that has artifacts in the screen and does not go past the hekate loading screen.
Edit:
Booting with +- shows bsod again.
What do you guys think the issue could be? Ram or CPU reballing? Anything else worth trying?

Maybe the cpu got overheated and desolder itself.
(Do you forget to put the thermal paste?)
Try to reheat it, and crossfinger, hopefully its worked.

 

[xxxCHAPUxxx]

Hi guys, I'm new here, I would like to make the picofly joycon led mod on my switch Oled, but I only see a diagram for the switch lite, does anyone know what points I should solder and what is needed?

 

[TheStonedModder]

Is there a version of Picofly I should avoid or will this OLED version work well? I finally found a local shop to install it for cheap

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...4WmOmgRW&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:

 

[Viktorsilva]

The console is at black screen, even with chip removed.

I followed your suggestion and got an "overview" with the thermal camera, you were right! It looks like it's +7780 1EWP IC, which seems to be a buck converter for the +3.3V rail I imagine. Thank you for your help!

I attached few photos, it started to overheat as hell with only battery connected.

Does anyone know where I can source this IC's easily (withou Ali waiting time)?

I'm sure you created a short circuit during the trial and error process of your installation. There are more than 30 installations in Oled versions that I only use single-sided installation and always with kamikaze mod. This way you reduce the chance of damaging something on the console by half. Not having to risk damaging the screen connector is a big advantage.Me and several Moders who appear on YouTube have already been victims of this failure as it is very easy to damage a connector pin and the console stops showing image.Replacing it its very triky and take many time. The Kamikaze method is 100% safe. All you need to do is carry out the process very calmly and with several interruptions to evaluate the layer of the motherboard that you have already drilled. All you need is a good mini drill and a 0.2mm tip. Desoldering the Nand and reballing increases the thermal stress on the component and drastically increases the risk of something being poorly welded. Your problem is probably due to a short circuit caused by the Nand welding that interferes with a voltage line on the +7780.

Have you tried removing the Dat0 point under the Nand?